Engine Seize PLEASE HELP!

[Affordable]

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[piperc744]

okay guys, ive tried a few things over the last couple days and found out a whole lot.

first, i OHM'ed (think thats how u spell it) out the two main terminal cables and they were perfect 1 on the meter.

also the batter seems to be holding a charge.

i then put it in neutral and pulled it with the truck, and it rolled fine.

then i tried pulling it in gear, no movement...

i then pulled the injectors, and all were dry inside.

then i pulled the radiator and breaker bar cranked the crank pulley, it rotated almost too easy, but fine though.

so now im stumped....

then i went and took off the FEL and managed to pull it off.

then i went and pulled in gear again, pulled and rolled!

now im feeling good, and feeling there is some hope left....

so then i went ahead and got ballsy and dropped the freaking clutch. dangerous i know, but it worked!!!!

i dropped the clutch with someone towing me and it actually tried to start for a couple seconds it was running!!!!! so i went ahead and got it outta 4wd lmao, and in 2wd it started and ran!!!!!!

now heres the new problem guys, its still not fixed....

while it was running, i did an inspection under the hood, and after only a half minute or so of running, the hydraulic pump i believe its called was smoking!!!!

what does this mean, it was smoking easily and i think that something in the pump there was stopping it from turning over properly because if i try to start it at a stand still it still wont start, but it tries barely, something is stopping the starter from getting enough umph to turn the crankshaft. and its something to do with this hydraulic pump smoking, im sure of it.

im just glad the engine is not shot and siezed and i can salvage this situation somehow still....

does neone know what would cause this pump to smoke and stop the engine from starting, i know nothing about hydraulics.... maybe i did not do proper maintinance and thats why it was a sluggish start for a week or two first???

ill take any advice i can get at this point, and u guys are awesome, keep it coming, i love all the advice im getting, thanks again guys!

chris

 

[biggerten]

Oh oh, you've dead-headed the hydraulic pump. When you removed the loader, did you connect the QCs (quick couplers) together? The QCs could be bad as well, most people exchange the originals for US made ones. This could explain the starting problem, too. The hydraulics are 'open center', which means the pump is always pumping, and the fluid has to go somewhere. If the QC's prevent flow, or if they're not connected properly, the pump destroys itself.

The pump is almost certainly shot.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

As stated you are dead heading the hyd pump. However I dont think you cooked the pump yet . If it was shot it wouldn't build pressure and keep the engine from cranking. You need a short hose to connect the hyd lines on the tractor together
Bill

 

[Rich Waugh]

When you disconnect the FEL from the pump the two hoses on the pump should connect together. You should not need any additional hose. Running the engine (and thus the hydraulic pump) with the hoses disconnected will dead head the pump and trash it. It might still be okay, but get those hoses connected together before you try starting it again!

 

[piperc744]

okay, so i hooked up the quick connect hoses and tried running it that way. i dropped the clutch to start it and it started fine and had no heat on the pump at all!!! great news! and also, i literally sat in the tractor and reached down to the wheels and rolled it by freakin hand and dropped the clutch lmao! it ran great after that so it MUST be a bad starter since cables are good and battery is good.

heres my problem, i took the starter to autozone and checker auto to have it bench tested and they said it was good.... i know when i wired it up before i left the house to a battery, the bendix extended and spun, but did not sound powerful to me at all and kinda whined a little. so i think its bad.

so in the morning ill be taking the tractor to a job, and working instead of the little riding mower. i have to drop the clutch to start it, attach the cutter, load it all onto the trailer, then leave it running untill i get to the job site (25 miles about) and then back it off and do the job all while it is running. is this ok u think?

 

[RPW]

Just because a starter turns when connected to a battery doesn't mean it's not shot. Also a bad solinoid may cause the problem by not allowing full current through it to the starter and could cause a false indication. But you know it's not the tractor itself so IMO I'd just go ahead and order a new starter/solinoid and be done with it.

Good luck.

 

[deereman75]

You could check if it is the selonoid by taking a screw driver and shorting out between the two bolts where the wires hook onto the selonoid, if it cranks, the selonoid is shot.

 

[KubotainNH]

You mentioned that you ohm'd the connections but didn't mention cleaning them or testing voltage drop. Ohming doesn't tell the full story because resistance may spike only when a load is put on. Gotta test the voltage at all points while someone is trying to start it. Otherwise you may be wasting money buying parts you don't need. I'll step it out for you, only move to the next step if 12v is good on previous step. All of these should be tested before and during trying to start. A small drop is ok.

1)test 12v on the battery posts, not the clamps - if drops when starter hit then crappy battery or shorted starter
2)test positive battery post to tractor ground - if drops when start then issue in ground cable (can go right to clamp also to make sure which end the issue is.
3)attach black probe to tractor frame for the rest of the tests assuming 2) is good. - test both ends of positive cable for 12volts, if drops when start then issue is in that cable.
4)test the starter side of solenoid, should be 12v only when trying to start. If 12v on one side but not the other then check voltage from key wire on solenoid (small gauge wire). Should be 12v, if not then issue with 12v coming from key. If good there but not on starter side then most likely solenoid is bad.
5)12 volts right at starter, if good then starter is bad.

You can do this in reverse order if you think it's the starter but my guess is it's the battery side. I can't stress enough how the battery posts and inside of the cable clamps should be shiny and not a dull color for good contact. Also be good to check what you have for charging voltage on the battery when the tractor is running.

 

[Molerj]

I vote solenoid.