Felling Trees Using FEL - Feelish?

[Beltzington]

Last week I cut four good sized (40'+) pine trees using a method I have never tried before. In years past, I have been fairly good controlling the direction a tree falls using the typical undercut and backcut. With these trees I needed to control the fall within a few feet to prevent hitting some buildings so I used my CUT's FEL to apply pressure on the trunk.

Basically, using the bottom of the bucket I drove up the trunk of the tree as high as the brush guard would allow and set the parking brake. I figured this placed a couple thousand pounds about 7-feet up the tree pushing in the direction I wanted the tree to fall. End result was it worked great - As the tree fell the tractor gently settled to the ground without incident.

Is this method accepted practice or did I just get lucky and should have ended up with a smashed tractor. TIA

Safety Police Disclaimer - Except for me, no humans or animals where in harms way during this procedure.

 

[KYDan]

I have been doing this for years with trees up to about 8" in diameter. Larger trees are harder to control and seem to slide across the bucket if they are unbalanced by limb postions and weight. I have used a different technique for larger trees by attaching a 100' wire rope higher up on the trunk and using a come along fastened to a stake, post, another tree, etc. to apply some pressure in a certain direction. It is more work and labor intensive (my physical labor) but it has worked effectively. Also, dense trees such as oak are more problematic than the lighter, softer wood trees.

 

[Deere Dude]

I have been doing this for years with trees up to about 8" in diameter. Larger trees are harder to control and seem to slide across the bucket if they are unbalanced by limb positions and weight. I have used a different technique for larger trees by attaching a 100' wire rope higher up on the trunk and using a come along fastened to a stake, post, another tree, etc. to apply some pressure in a certain direction. It is more work and labor intensive (my physical labor) but it has worked effectively. Also, dense trees such as oak are more problematic than the lighter, softer wood trees.

X2 on the cable thing.
But the problem with the cable idea is if the cable slackens when the tree begins tipping, it can move in a sideways direction by 45 degrees or so and you will miss that 2-4 foot drop zone, but it's better than a tractor pushing to a point and I have done that plenty also.
What works really well for me if you have room is to run that long cable out and hook it to a truck or tractor and put pressure on the tree. As soon as someone starts cutting the backside start pulling and pull quickly so you don't lose any slack. It will fall in exactly the area you want it to fall.
In close situations like that I may even hook another cable to put pressure towards the area where nothing can get damaged, just in case someone panics and forgets to put the car in gear or doesn't get going in time.

 

[Kyle241]

Personally I never bring my tractor anywhere close to a tree I am cutting. Just my paranoia but sometimes trees have a mind of their own and I prefer to move away from a falling tree rather than watch by accident part of a tree fall on my tractor. Again this is just my opinion only.

 

[mcd176]

I use a 100' cable as well but use two people one on tractor to keep tension and one cutting, Ive witnessed one tragedy 3 years ago when a guy was doing the same, he put the bucket up on the tree, cut tree, tree didnt fall, he climbed back on the tractor began to push and the tree came down on top of him and killed him, the other incident the tree kicked when cut and crushed the tractor. just my .02

 

[Thomas]

Not for me either,branch/limb unable to see coming down.
Tree may look good and solid but you never know.

 

[KYDan]

Yes, I have done the 2nd vehicle approach as well and always with very large trees that require directional felling. The cable approach in my earlier post requires a lot of tension to be applied and it does not always work exactly as I have planned and if precision is required I usually ask my wife to help me with the 2nd vehicle approach. Most of the time is the angled cut approach which generally works pretty well. The single person approach is usually involves keeping the felled tree off a fence.

 

[GrowFarmers]

I have talked to a number of people that do this, but it is something that I never really felt comfortable doing. The cable idea works but it its sometimes hard to get the cable up high enough to make a difference. If you do continue to push with your tractor be very careful to leave enough of a hinge when you are doing your felling cut. Otherwise the tree could kick back and damage your tractor. Another thing to be mindfull of any cracks our weaknesses in the bottom of the trunk that might cause the tree to barberchair.

 

[s219]

Honestly, the less people and equipment next to the tree, the better. When using tractors, our practice has been to run a rope through a sheave/pulley attached to the base of a far off tree, and then pull with the tractor in some other direction opposite from the fall zone. There are way too many unpredictable felling and overhead hazards with trees, and I don't think it makes sense to knowingly put more people and equipment in close proximity than is needed. Oh, and don't forget to frequently look up when cutting!

Given that a FEL can only apply a point force to a round tree trunk, I think it's pure luck that the point force can help steer the tree. In reality, it is far, far more dependent on the cut geometry and the loading of the tree. A poor cut, a leaning tree, or an asymmetric load on the tree can cause the fall direction to vary, or cause the butt to spin or walk off the stump. Any of that action will easily overcome whatever push a FEL can provide, and make the tractor seem like a toy. I would only count on the FEL for very small and light trees.

 

[Beltzington]

Thanks for your feedback folks - My original intent was to use a winch and cable but I waited too long on a good buy on CL and lost out on the winch and wanted to get these trees downed while I had a day off.

Loose limbs (widow makers) are a factor whether you are sitting on a tractor or running the saw, so I am not sure they factor into the risk of this procedure but certainly something to always keep in mind when felling trees.

Hardwoods with heavy branches and fickle grain make things interesting and I would agree multiply the risk to life, limb and equipment.

At the end of the day I guess I was looking for atonement for risking a $25K tractor to save a $10k building and as expected no warm hugs on TBN. :laughing:

Question for using cables - How high on the tree should they be placed to control the fall? With my failing dexterity I am not sure climbing a 30' extension ladder to attach a cable would have been a safer alternative?