FIXED IT- NO MORE LEAKS---4x4 front left leaking oil onto rim and tire

[macdoesit]

The wheel comes off first. Let us know how you make out on step 2.

Better for people to think your an idiot, than to respond and remove all doubt.

 

[orezok]

How high is up?

 

[07wingnut]

It's unfortunate that only the smartas$e$ responded to your request for some help. Understandably you may not feel a driving need to post your experience with fixing the leak, but I am sure there are a lot of members on this forum who would be interested. Please do post .

 

[5030]

What the op isn't alluding to is... He's posted the same exact question on numerous forums.

Not gonna fix itself, it quit leaking when the outboard was devoid of oil.

 

[coobie]

What the op isn't alluding to is... He's posted the same exact question on numerous forums.

Not gonna fix itself, it quit leaking when the outboard was devoid of oil.

Good job beat down the OP.Keep up the good work..

 

[deezler]

Well my cub cadet (made by mitsubishi) also just developed an oil leak out of the front right lower MFWD drop axle, so I would be interested in how you fixed your leak. Near as I can tell there are 3 seals - top input shaft, wheel hub output shaft, and the case cover itself. I gotta brake-clean mine down and try to see which part the leak is coming from.

 

[5030]

You want to tell me , what the HELL is wrong, with posting on numerous forums, Damn right I did, Im trying to get help on fixing the F====== thing. Other than smartasses, no help here.
Your not very bright, are you,DS.

Gee, you received the same answers there as you did here. I have a feeling that your lack of mechanical expertise precludes you actually fixing the issue anyway. IOW, it will fail at some point from your acute lack of ability to address and fix the issue.

I don't much care if you run an ad in the local rag asking for help but, the answers to your questions will be similar across all venues.

IOW, you and an inept clutz and in reality should have someone qualified fix it, rather than taking the cheap way out and buggering it up. Have fun and be apprised, it will fail when there is no more fluid in the outboard.

 

[Williy]

I know nothing about your machines but hope
this will be of help:

Check this one out you can see it on line: Cub Cadet 7305 Compact Tractor Service Repair Manual

This one cost $4.95 Cub Cadet 7305 Compact Tractor Service Manual PDF Download

This is $19.95 Cub Cadet 7305 Compact Tractor Service Manual Download – Cub Cadet Service Manual

willy

 

[5030]

Well my cub cadet (made by mitsubishi) also just developed an oil leak out of the front right lower MFWD drop axle, so I would be interested in how you fixed your leak. Near as I can tell there are 3 seals - top input shaft, wheel hub output shaft, and the case cover itself. I gotta brake-clean mine down and try to see which part the leak is coming from.

They almost always start weeping at the radial seal (the one between the upper casting and the lower casting because the internal bushing has worn to the point where it's allowing the king pin to be sloppy and the seal cannot overcome the slop so it starts leaking. The proper fix is to first jack up the front end, remove the wheel and then grasp the outboard and physically try to move it vertically. if it exhibits vertical slop, the bushings are worn and need to be replaced. Not a difficult job and the bushings should be readily available at an authorized dealer or online. Matter of disassembly of the outboard and driving the worn bushing out and replacing it with a new one (some will have an upper and lower bushings) The insert bushing wears, not the king pin, because it's heat treated. Don't forget to replace the radial seal (between the casting halves) and the uppermost gasket as well as the lower most gasket as the only 'seal' is the radial one.

Basically, a grunt job and not much more. The one thing you do need to do is find out the correct torque value for the upper fixing bolts as they must be torqued to the OEM specs to apply the correct pressure on the radial seal. Too little and it will leak and too much and it will gall and leak.

Some FWA tractors have the outboard lubricant separate from the axle fluid itself (my M series Kubota's are like that) and when the outboard gets sloppy from busing wear, it will allow that inner lip seal to pass lubricant from the outboard to the axle housing itself and the fluid level when correct is usually at a different level than the axle casting itself. I've done all 4 of mine on my tractors as well as replaced sloppy tie rod ends and dust boots.

Pretty easy actually. Just use some common sense and take your time and makes sure the sealing surfaces are clean as well as the faces of the new seal. You don't want any dirt, mud or grit in the faces and the only critical thing is the prevailing torque value of the fixing bolts.

 

[macdoesit]

They almost always start weeping at the radial seal (the one between the upper casting and the lower casting because the internal bushing has worn to the point where it's allowing the king pin to be sloppy and the seal cannot overcome the slop so it starts leaking. The proper fix is to first jack up the front end, remove the wheel and then grasp the outboard and physically try to move it vertically. if it exhibits vertical slop, the bushings are worn and need to be replaced. Not a difficult job and the bushings should be readily available at an authorized dealer or online. Matter of disassembly of the outboard and driving the worn bushing out and replacing it with a new one (some will have an upper and lower bushings) The insert bushing wears, not the king pin, because it's heat treated. Don't forget to replace the radial seal (between the casting halves) and the uppermost gasket as well as the lower most gasket as the only 'seal' is the radial one.

Basically, a grunt job and not much more. The one thing you do need to do is find out the correct torque value for the upper fixing bolts as they must be torqued to the OEM specs to apply the correct pressure on the radial seal. Too little and it will leak and too much and it will gall and leak.

Some FWA tractors have the outboard lubricant separate from the axle fluid itself (my M series Kubota's are like that) and when the outboard gets sloppy from busing wear, it will allow that inner lip seal to pass lubricant from the outboard to the axle housing itself and the fluid level when correct is usually at a different level than the axle casting itself. I've done all 4 of mine on my tractors as well as replaced sloppy tie rod ends and dust boots.

Pretty easy actually. Just use some common sense and take your time and makes sure the sealing surfaces are clean as well as the faces of the new seal. You don't want any dirt, mud or grit in the faces and the only critical thing is the prevailing torque value of the fixing bolts.

Thank you