Ford 1700 3 point issues - Hydraulic fluid question

[SgtSluggo]

So after mowing for about 4 hours this weekend, my 1700 began to develop a 3point problem. The 3-pt was no longer holding up the bush hog. If I fiddled with the controls a bit, it would lift up the bush hog and then drop it back again. If I let it try to hold the cutter up then it will temporarily raise it, then drop it down, then in a minute or so raise it again for a second or two.

It will stop for a few minutes if I turn the tractor off for a bit. I let it cool for a whole day, and it worked for about 30-40min before the problem returned.

Any suggestions on what I should start to fix?

I see several things online that hydraulic problems are fixed by cleaning the filter. I plan to do that the next time I have a chance, but that leaves me with more questions. I have no idea what kind of fluid is in the tractor now. It looks like I will loose 1-2 gallons of fluid by trying to clean the filter. The fluid looks clean (no water) on the dipstick. Can I add fluid, or do I need to change it completely so that I am sure I am not mixing fluids? Can I use a modern UTF for this tractor? This is what is easily available to me: Tractor Hydraulic Fluid, Superior Protection, 2-Gallons

Thanks for your help.

 

[JC-jetro]

I have a ton of info about the subject matter here. You may search NH owning and operating with my handle name. Cleaning the screen is okay but you issue is 9 out of 10 is not the screen. Any hyd oil that meet NH-134a will suffice or you can buy the Ambra OEM if you have easy access to .. Higher $$$ . Most likely you need to check the lift piston seal that can be done invasively but can be done without any damage to lift system. Your pump could be the culprit but not very likely.

JC,

PS. I do have a lot of picture guiding you through your investigation as to cause of the problem.

 

[SgtSluggo]

Thanks JC! I have been reading some of the older things on here. Your pictures really helped. I found the seal online, and it looks like something I can handle. This is going to be my first attempt at fixing something like this myself, so I am a bit nervous. Found a video of someone doing it to a 1910 and it looks similar to the 1700 diagram I have.

Do you recommend changing o-rings while I am in there? I am hoping I don't have to buy those from NH ($9 seems high).

I think I am going to change the hydraulic oil and clean the screen while I am at it since I have no idea how long it has been since it has been done. The tractor only has about 880 hours on it, but I have only had it for a couple of months.

 

[JC-jetro]

Sarge,

No worries, we'll help you along as you need. If you are minimally mechanically inclined then you can do it. The design of hyd system in 1000 series are fantastically simple with being able to remove the cylinder head to inspect the seal. it is a lot more involved with many other tractors including my Kubota. My recommendation is to just take the 6 bolts off the lift cylinder head. Make sure to release all stored energy in the hyd system by manipulating the lift handle up and down. I don't think you have any pressure due to leakage while the tractor is off. Once you figured out if you indeed have busted lift seal then you need to source it first. Have some rag to clean a bit of spillage as you go along. I can provide you more guidance as you get further. Remember the seal is dual lip nylon and it goes only one direction. if you reverse the orientation that seal is toast as you cannot remove without damaging it. You want to absolutely do it once and correctly. You should be able to check the seal under 15-30 minutes tops.

JC,

PS. I did not change my o-rings as I bough a spare in case. The o-ring sits in a groove and is squashed just a bit. Mine were perfectly in good shape. Loosen the head in a criss-cross fashion so you unload the pressure on the o-ring evenly. Do the same putting it all back together.

 

[SgtSluggo]

Sarge,

Just wanted to say thanks. I was able to get it apart, the seal replaced, and get it all back together. Your pictures along with some Youtube videos I found really helped a lot. I can't believe it ever worked at all with the goo that the old seal had turned into. Works great now, and finally got the field cut. Next on my list is figuring out how to get it to cut off without killing the engine by putting it into a high gear with low throttle.

 

[JC-jetro]

Just wanted to say thanks. I was able to get it apart, the seal replaced, and get it all back together. Your pictures along with some Youtube videos I found really helped a lot. I can't believe it ever worked at all with the goo that the old seal had turned into. Works great now, and finally got the field cut. Next on my list is figuring out how to get it to cut off without killing the engine by putting it into a high gear with low throttle.

Great,

I am glad it worked out and you got your right back together. Tractor without working hydraulics is almost useless anymore. You might have to keep the brush hog a bit higher. for me range 3 and speed 3 work well with grass about 2 feet high and level ground. Higher that that range 2 and speed 3 would work. I would recommend that you protect your injector pump as best you can to check and change the oil in that. it only take about 2 oz of oil and I think it is essential as injector pump is really high $$$ if you are even able to source it. I do have post in that regards as well.

JC,

 

[SgtSluggo]

Great,

I am glad it worked out and you got your right back together. Tractor without working hydraulics is almost useless anymore. You might have to keep the brush hog a bit higher. for me range 3 and speed 3 work well with grass about 2 feet high and level ground. Higher that that range 2 and speed 3 would work. I would recommend that you protect your injector pump as best you can to check and change the oil in that. it only take about 2 oz of oil and I think it is essential as injector pump is really high $$$ if you are even able to source it. I do have post in that regards as well.

JC,

I might have mis-explained my next problem. The tractor doesn't stall (turn off when I don't want it to). Its that it doesn't turn off when it should. Pushing the throttle all the way forward puts in it idle, but does not shut off the engine. The only I have to turn the tractor off at the moment is to put it in Idle, then in range 4, gear 3, then come off the clutch so that it stalls.

 

[JC-jetro]

First thing , look at the geometry of the rod that is attached from throttle handle all the way to injector pump. Make sure rod and hinges could move all the way unimpeded. I think you might have a a bind in the linkage. That is more reason to change the injector oil. It might have turned to jelly over the years. There is a centifulal governor that controls the speed. it needs lubrication to fully open or close. Check it out and report.

JC,

 

[JC-jetro]

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[JC-jetro]

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