Ford 1710 will crank but not start

[3Lfarms]

Sounds like the fuel is there. If glow plugs aren’t working, it may be worth a try to stick a hair dryer in the intake on high while cranking. That should help a bit. If that gets it going, then keep troubleshooting the glow plugs.
If not, I would probably look at compression.

 

[Dave M7040]

vvanders;

My manual came in this morning! Those diagrams appear identical. Thank you very much for taking the time to upload those diagrams!

I am comparing the diagram to the tractor wiring right now. If I can get the indicator to glow I will let you know. I can feel heat on it when I hover my hand over the indicator.

pumpguysc;

I will put the new multimeter on the glow plugs. When you pull start what gear and speed do you have it in when you drop the clutch?

DaveM7040;

I have headed your warnings thus far and I appreciate them! I will be checking for a good solid ground today. The current ground is attached to the loader mount which is attached to the chasis... I've cleaned it but it may be not be a proper ground? Similiar to grounding to the front axle?

Thank you all for your caring support!

My advice to owners of older tractors is to buy a battery cable with an eye on each end.

Connect one eye to the spot where the ground cable attaches to the frame or engine block. In your case the loader frame, attach the other eye to the mounting bolt of the starter.

Clean all those connections to a bright shiny metal condition. The starter relies on its contact with the engine block to have a good ground path. Often rust forms on the mating surfaces and then you have a poor performing starter because it has a poor ground under high load.

Dave M7040

 

[thepumpguysc]

Put the trans in HI gear..

 

[tony45]

might want to bite the bullet and give a shot of starting fluid, if it knocked before what do have to lose, or in most of the stuff I have I always use lighter fluid

 

[grateful4]

3LFarms;

I will check the compression once I either buy or rent a gauge. The hair dryer is something I also need to try. Thank you!

tony45;

I might just do that. I am trying to see if I can produce a reliable start first! If I can't I will try starting fluid and pulling it.

________

Ok so today's progress:

New glow plugs show 0.8 ohms? Is this within margins?
Ford 1710 Glow Plug Test - YouTube

1. Checked wiring diagram for power to glow plugs
> Wired correctly.

2. Followed all the steps to check the wiring and resistance to the glow plugs, ignition switch, and coil indicator
> Passed all tests for ohms


3. Installed fully charged battery


4. Held key to the left for up to 60 seconds, warming glow plugs
> Didn't start after multiple attempts

5. Recharged the battery to 100%
On left ignition turn I put the multimeter to the glow plugs on 12v to make sure they were getting power. It climbed from 8.5v to 9.8v in about 45 seconds.
> is this normal? Glow plugs getting amperage but not the full 12.x voltage?

6. I have no idea how to tell if the timing is off on the injection pump? Is there a tutorial or video on YouTube that teaches this?

7. The negative battery cable is getting fairly hot. I am still not certain i have a reliable ground. I have attached photos.




I think the next step is to check compression?

Thank you all!

 

[grateful4]

My advice to owners of older tractors is to buy a battery cable with an eye on each end.

Connect one eye to the spot where the ground cable attaches to the frame or engine block. In your case the loader frame, attach the other eye to the mounting bolt of the starter.

Clean all those connections to a bright shiny metal condition. The starter relies on its contact with the engine block to have a good ground path. Often rust forms on the mating surfaces and then you have a poor performing starter because it has a poor ground under high load.

Dave M7040

Ok so;

Battery - to GROUND
Battery + to STARTER
Ground to STARTER mounting bolt

To ensure the starter is properly grounded?

 

[Dave M7040]

3LFarms;

I will check the compression once I either buy or rent a gauge. The hair dryer is something I also need to try. Thank you!

tony45;

I might just do that. I am trying to see if I can produce a reliable start first! If I can't I will try starting fluid and pulling it.

________

Ok so today's progress:

New glow plugs show 0.8 ohms? Is this within margins?
Ford 1710 Glow Plug Test - YouTube

1. Checked wiring diagram for power to glow plugs
> Wired correctly.

2. Followed all the steps to check the wiring and resistance to the glow plugs, ignition switch, and coil indicator
> Passed all tests for ohms


3. Installed fully charged battery


4. Held key to the left for up to 60 seconds, warming glow plugs
> Didn't start after multiple attempts

5. Recharged the battery to 100%
On left ignition turn I put the multimeter to the glow plugs on 12v to make sure they were getting power. It climbed from 8.5v to 9.8v in about 45 seconds.
> is this normal? Glow plugs getting amperage but not the full 12.x voltage?

6. I have no idea how to tell if the timing is off on the injection pump? Is there a tutorial or video on YouTube that teaches this?

7. The negative battery cable is getting fairly hot. I am still not certain i have a reliable ground. I have attached photos.




I think the next step is to check compression?

Thank you all!

You are using back woods battery cables. Buy some new heavy gauge ones with molded on ends,
You ignition switch is badly corroded. You need to be removing wires from terminals and polishing to clean metal state using a dremel or similar.

Your ground cable to the loader frame is very suspect. Add the double eye cable I suggested running to starter.

I have not seem such a big electrical mess for a long time!!!!

Dave M7040

 

[thepumpguysc]

I don't know if you know this or not but a DIESEL Compression tester is VERY DIFF. than a GAS Compr. tester..
A properly working diesel engine puts out 2-3x the compression, than a gasoline engine.. which in mechanics terms means>> a compression tester for a gasoline engine "aint gonna work".. on top of just the #'s.. you need an adaptor that takes the place of the actual engine's injector..
I've made hundreds thu out the years [adaptors] & don't have a one.. or I'd let you borrow it..

 

[tony45]

any new info?

 

[radios1]

WOW! is there a lot of rust!. ALL electrical connections need to be cleaned of any rust, and marine grease applied to prevent it forming again(marine grease is waterproof, and lasts decades without drying up).. the glow plugs have to get hot enough, and the engine has to crank fast enough, else, it won't start.. hopefully, the problem don't extend into the injection system, but seeing the mess in the electrical system, it's doubtful it's more than just an electrical problem, sometimes you get surprised though..