ford 192 turbo engine injection pump questions

[vroomZOOM]

Hi, I got some questions about ^^^, specifically the injection pump (lucas 1216). one day it just shut down due to bad electric lift pump. Lift pump got replaced, but still no start. I opened the bleeder screw on the pump and let the air out. I then removed the lines from the injectors, and cranked the engine. It would push fuel, but about only 1 drop at a time. I could plug the injection lines and it would build very little pressure, obviously not enough to fire the injectors. Any suggestions? Also, the top of the pump has two levers, one is connected to the throttle cable, and the other is spring loaded and not connected to anything. What is it? Do I maybe push it manually while bleeding? Finally, would a bad stop solenoid make the pump act up this way?

Thanks

 

[loggin]

Hi, I got some questions about ^^^, specifically the injection pump (lucas 1216). one day it just shut down due to bad electric lift pump. Lift pump got replaced, but still no start. I opened the bleeder screw on the pump and let the air out. I then removed the lines from the injectors, and cranked the engine. It would push fuel, but about only 1 drop at a time. I could plug the injection lines and it would build very little pressure, obviously not enough to fire the injectors. Any suggestions? Also, the top of the pump has two levers, one is connected to the throttle cable, and the other is spring loaded and not connected to anything. What is it? Do I maybe push it manually while bleeding? Finally, would a bad stop solenoid make the pump act up this way?

Thanks

A bad fuel stop solenoid would certainly prevent a diesel engine from starting. It actually redirects fuel internally to shut the engine down on a mechanical injector pump. You can usually activate it manually by hand. It also typically makes a click noise when the ignition is turned on or off. One sign to know if it is working or not.

I hope this helps!!

 

[thepumpguysc]

On the older style solenoids u can take the guts out, (plunger and spring) and screw the body back in..and go thru the bleeding process again..
That lever that’s not hooked up is the manual shut off lever..The spring should be pulling it to the run position..
Oh, when bleeding, put the throttle wide open..
Good luck.

 

[vroomZOOM]

Im back to messing with it. Removed the stop solenoid and when I turn the key to on, the solenoid pulls in the plunger. Tested the electric pump and after the filters im getting 4psi. pulled the pump head off and removed the filter. I cleaned the screen, ensured that all the springs and plungers were free. Vane transfer pump looked good. I put everything back together. Removed the top cover off the pump and ensured the metering valve was not stuck and turns freely. I then bled the air out of the pump. Removed the injectors from the engine to make the engine turn over faster, and disconnected the hp lines. No dice. Still just a small drop or two from the injector lines, but nowhere near enough to make the engine run. Time to strip down the pump?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yup.. but.. unless u have a book and a few special tools, and some parts handy, u probably shouldn’t..

 

[thepumpguysc]

When looking for a manual online.. look up..
CAV DPA WORKSHOP MANUAL
JUST REMEMBER, those manuals are set up for a technician that has access to special tools and a test stand to reset the fuel and pressures..
With that being said, not all proceedures should be followed step by step..

 

[vroomZOOM]

Okay, an update. Diesel shop said the pump head is probably sheared and cam ring is probably also cooked. I figured I wouldn't hurt anything by tearing the pump apart. I watched some of bundy bears videos, and it turned out the pump is actually pretty simple. While watching I thought what if those little plungers are stuck in their bores. Took the pump apart, and what do you know! All four of those plungers are frozen in solid! Well that explains a few things... Also all kinds of muck and a bit of corrosion in the pump. Some water and grit was definitely at work here. I am now contemplating whether I should try heat the pump head and get the plungers out, and clean the gunk out of the bores, or whether to get a new pump head... time for some thought. But I definitely found the root cause. Big learning curve here, and im lovin it!

 

[thepumpguysc]

U don’t ever put heat on a rotor.!!!
Simply knock out the plungers w a soft punch and hammer.. & lap them back in the bore w 1200 grit lapping compound..
How did u get the rotor outta the head..??

 

[vroomZOOM]

I unscrewed the transfer pump vane holder off the shaft... The little plungers I was just going to put some light polishing compound on, should be enough to free them up.

 

[vroomZOOM]

U don’t ever put heat on a rotor.!!!
Simply knock out the plungers w a soft punch and hammer.. & lap them back in the bore w 1200 grit lapping compound..
How did u get the rotor outta the head..??

The plungers were so stuck I didn't risk hitting them harder. I figured the rotor has nothing to loose, so with some heat I was able to hammer them out. (DW wasn't extremely hot, I could still pick it up with my hands)