Ford 6000 diesel instrument wiring - driving me mad!

[Aussiebushman]

OK. I give up and need help. This all began when I decided to fix the non-working fuel /temp gauges and ammeter warning light. so I pulled off the covers and found the mess of wiring "repaired" by the last owner. Many wires were bare, some simply disconnected and it is a wonder the machine started and ran without catching fire. Please consider and comment:

The IT shop manual does not have a section on wiring or instruments
The Internet has any number of wiring diagrams and two thes are included in this post. But - neither of these has much resemblance to what it actually installed. My tractor is presumably a US model (not Euro) but the Australian distributors may have modified the wiring.
The schematic from ALMA (see picture) is as close as it gets but no wiring colors are shown so it is not very helpful in terms of rewiring

PLEASE - anyone with a correct wiring schematic for a 6000 model - please supply me with one

This is what we now have:

• There was NO power to the instrument cluster so lots of damaged wiring has been replaced with soldered/heatshrink joins to replace the previous dodgy versions. (Yet to be reconnected to the battery until I resolve the issues listed here)
• There are red and green wires coming from the instrument cluster but they are not connected to anything, An ohmmeter shows connectivity with the yellow/red wires at the instrument panel but the green wire has no connectivity. I should think these should go to the ignition switch but can't see any spare or missing terminal contacts. Also an orange wire is hanging out of the loom, but I cannot find anywhere this might go. Any suggestions?
• Instrument cluster has been removed, cleaned but not bench tested (auto electrician did not want to do it) I now have a replacement cluster out of an old car that should work if it is the present on that has failed.
• The 3 pin (plus ground) voltage regulator (NOT a 4 pin as shown in the diagrams) ditto. There are no breaks in the wiring and the unit looks OK
• The "inverter" has NOT been removed - it looks dirty but otherwise OK. I have no ideal what this unit does
• Sender units have NOT been removed - I doubt thee are the problem - one might fail, but not all at once so it is surely a power/connection issue

I guess in the final analysis, I can just put it all back together and hope but that will not fix the instrument problem. Any assistance most welcome.

Alan

 

[Aussiebushman]

Re: Ford 6000 diesel instrument wiring - Update

Today I stripped out all of the broken wires connected to the instruments, switch, regulator etc and replaced them with new ones soldered and protected with heat shrink and new terminals. I connected the mystery green and red wires to the ignition switch then put it all back together. There is no change though on any of the instruments - none working. At least the engine starts and the lights work.

Tomorrow, I'll jump the fuel gauge to the replacement unit to see if that works - if not, at least it will help to identify if the problem is in the gauge or in the wiring. If it does turn out to be wiring, Kevin LaRue (in a PM) was most helpful and suggested taking off all of the tape from the loom until the bad bit is located - good advice

I'm trying to order a new voltage regulator and a stabilizer (the latter may well be the problem) from tractorparts.inc in the US but they will not acknowledge anything from Australia so I'll have to find a different source or get my daughter (in California) to take delivery and forward it to me. How hard is it these days to think globally?

Still need more advice if anyone else can help

 

[CCWKen]

A few things you should consider:
1. Get the correct wiring diagram for your tractor.
2. Stop connecting wires to the ignition switch until you complete #1. (According to the diagram, the red wire is for tail lights.)
3. Disconnect the battery.
4. Use a VOM meter or continuity light to trace each of the wires for each dash function.
Such as: Find the temp sensor and note wire color. Does the dash wire of the same color have continuity to the sensor?

 

[CCWKen]

Some other things to keep in mind:
Most sensor/meter circuit wires will be small wires like 16 or 18 gauge wire.
Power or battery circuits will be larger--10 or 12 gauge wire.
Head light circuits will generally be 14 gauge with tail lights and dash lights in the 16/18 gauge range.

Locate and check the fuses. Some many be in-line and some may be in a fuse block near the voltage regulator.

If someone has modified the wiring, you have no choice but to trace each circuit. Mark/label each wire as it's function is determined.

As I've always said; "Wiring is simple. One end goes here, the other end goes there."

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks but maybe you missed something - it is the "correct wiring diagram" I am trying to find. The IT shop manual does not have one and the versions on the Internet bear little or no resemblance to what is there. As stated in my first message, only the ALMA tractor schematic is correct but it does not show the actual connections or colors.

Yes, I am attempting to trace each circuit

 

[Soundguy]

Post a pic of the tractor for s & g's

 

[CCWKen]

Those IT manuals don't show much of anything. You will need to buy a shop manual. They are in the $200 range. Because of this, most forum posters are pretty stingy about giving up information out of the manuals. I had the same problem years ago for my 3910 so I just did my own wiring based off the same diagrams you posted--Yeah, they've been around that long. But...I have a lot of experience wiring/re-wiring custom, antique and classic cars so it's no "butcher job" and I used the same primary wire colors. :thumbsup:

I've heard the worry about copyright infringement but that doesn't apply unless you're trying to sell the info. And many of the tractor forum moderators will delete the post containing the info for fear of advertiser's rebuke. This is supposed to be a place to get help. As long as it doesn't cost anything.
Rant off.

 

[Aussiebushman]

Thanks guys. Actually made more progress yesterday talking to a local guy who has been in the tractor business for many decades. The Ford 6000 wiring turns out to be virtually identical to the 8000 and the IT manual DOES have wiring diagrams for that model. I also removed the "inverter" shown in the ALMA schematic that turned out not to be connected to anything. In fact, because most of the important wires had been removed or had broken there was nothing delivering power to the instrument cluster.

I have plenty of experience rewiring Land Rovers and now I have a diagram, I can rewire the senders to the gauges, key switch and voltage regulator without blowing the system. The wire colors will not be original but who cares if it works! A working fuel gauge might prevent having to bleed a 6 cylinder diesel parked in the bush with snow or rain pouring down my neck.

I'll let you know how I get on

Alan

 

[Aussiebushman]

Just for advice to others who may have a 6000, here is the diagram that matches reality, The only difference is that the 6000 has a generator, not an alternator, but the wiring is identical