Ford Hydraulic Manifold

[trekman]

I have connected a spool valve to the pressure port and return port on the manifold of my Ford 1320. (1988 with 800 hours) This diverter is on the RHS, just a little below the hydraulic pump. The spool valve is open centre. According to the user manual, I have rotated the control screw to allow both the 3 point linkage and spool valve both to work. This is the case, but it seems that the there is a little more noise coming from the hydraulic pump than before i made the connections. It would seem like a whine, typical in tractors with additional hydraulic functions.
Is this normal practice to have more noise when additional functions are connected?
I also tried using the lower "return to tank port", but when using this I was not able to use the rear 3 point linkage.
Is there anything that I am doing wrong, or have missed?
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.

 

[TractorTech]

The whine is probably from the oil flow through the valve being restricted causing back pressure on the pump and thus the whine. What size are the supply and return ports on the valve?

 

[trekman]

The pressure supply is 3/8" and the return pipe back to the diverter valve/block is also 3/8". However the tank port on the spool valve was able to have a 1/2" pipe, but I reduced this back down to 3/8" as it was coming back to a 3/8 port on the diverter valve/block anyway.
I was just wondering if the speed control knob below the seat would have any effect on it?

 

[K5lwq]

Your new valve needs a power beyond sleeve installed on the PB port. That will have to go back to the diverter to feed the 3pt. You will also need the tank port from the valve going back to the tank port on the diverter valve. 3 hoses in total to add the valve.

 

[trekman]

I have followed all instructions, and have connected a power beyond plug from the spool valve back in the pressure inlet (top left). I have connected the pressure outlet (port on the right of the control screw) to the "pressure in" port of the spool valve. I have connected up the tank port of the spool valve to the "Return port" (bottom port below control screw). I removed the pressure relief valve on the Manifold block, gave it a clean and could not see anything out of place. This was refitted only to have the whine appear when the rotary screw is turned. It disappears when the rotary screw position is changed back.
I just wonder if there could be any issue with the rotary screw control? I am hesitant to take it all apart but I find it hard to believe that there is any problem with all the new pipe work.
Any suggestions are most welcome and grateful.

 

[K5lwq]

At this point pictures would help. Also do you have a high pressure gauge for checking pressures? Minimum of 3000 PSI and a way to tee into your lines. Also have you hooked anything to the new valve?

 

[LD1]

Yes, pictures would be great. And what "directions" did you follow? Was this a kit specifically for the tractor?

As far as the "whine" noise..hard for us to quantify that on the other end of a computer screen. But, it could be normal? Or it could be something plumbed wrong and you are forcing oil over the relief, which is NOT good and will likely cook the hydraulics sooner rather than later.

Not familiar with your machine or the selector knob you refer to. But LOTS of pictures and I am sure we can figure this out

 

[trekman]

From the above explanation (Figure 32 Hydraulic Manifold Block), you will see that I am able to isolate the hydraulic functions but retain the lift arms.
I have connected pipe work to Pressure going into spool valve, power beyond and to tank. All is working correctly, and the hydraulic top link works perfect, except for the whine. This does fade away momentarily when using the spool valve.
I just know that there are a lot of these tractors in America, and someone must have some experience of the functionality of the Manifold block when connected.
The last thing that I want is to damage the pump or other parts due to a repairable fault. Thanks for your help.

 

[LD1]

So you have the inlet of the valve you showed hooked to the outlet of the manifold. And the PB out of the new valve going to the inlet of the manifold. And tank port of the new valve going to return? Verify that. IF correct, and screw in right setting, all should be good. But I'd keep an eye on it, operate for a little bit and feel the valve, hoses, and manifold and see if something is hotter than normal

 

[trekman]

Yes, it is all connected correctly. What I would say is that whine does not start immediately, but after about 10 seconds. I might connect up the Pressure line and PB lines, bypassing the spool valve, to see if it makes any difference. Just trying to figure out the cause of the whine. thanks for your help