Snow Front snow plow with hydraulic angle change question

[LD1]

Only semi-related... That fact causes problems if you try to use a diverter & your loader valve only does regen (like all the economy Kubotas). Regen dumps full pressure to both hoses. On your bucket dump the but end of the cylinder having more surface area than the rod end will overpower the rod end. Dumps faster because of the extra fluid coming out of the but end & also prevents worn seals from sucking in air as the bucket pulls on the cylinders faster than the pump can fill em. 2 opposing single action cylinders just push against each other equally & do nothing when hit with regen.

Same issue I had on mine. Simple fix though. Use the diverter on the lift instead of curl.

 

[MossRoad]

I've got a power angle snow plow on my FEL arms. I can tell you, you want to keep your dump and curl functions as well as your lift and lower functions on your joystick just as they are. Those are the functions you'll use the most, and you are used to them with the operation of the bucket on the FEL, so don't change them or it will mess up your coordination every time you switch back and forth between bucket and plow.

Stick with the plan to add a third circuit to power the angling of the snow blade.

You can do this several ways, probably more than just the ones I'll mention.

1. Extend a circuit from your rear remotes.
- this would be the easiest and cheapest, as all you'll need is hoses. You already have the valves. You'll just have to take your hand off the joystick to operate the angle function.
2. Add an electric diverter valve to your dump/curl function on your joystick.
- this can be done for a few hundred bucks. You'll end up with a thumb push button on your joystick. In normal operation, you'll have dump/curl of the blade, just like your bucket. When you push the button, you'll use the same left/right motion of the joystick to angle the plow blade. Let go of the button, and it returns to dump/curl function. This is the way to go, if you ask me.
3. See if your dealer (or you) can add a third spool fed off of your power beyond port on your joystick valve (if you have power beyond).
- this would also work well, but again, just like with using the rear remotes, you'll have to take your hand off the joystick to angle the blade.

 

[Thirsty]

Thanks everyone for your input. I've deceided to go with the hoses run from the rear remotes to the front.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

Thirsty,
MANY guys use their rear remote to operate snowplows and/or grapples, if you search some you'll find quite a few threads about it. All need is long 1/4" or 3/8" hoses and a few couplers and your all set.

I agree, But I have one thing to add. As long as you are connecting to the rear remotes I'd go for 1/2" lines, this way you have full flow if you ever want to run a quick attach post hole auger, demolition hammer, etc.

 

[FatTire]

I understand that while using this set up, I cannot have the Backhoe hooked up to the hydraulic system. I found this in the Backhoe manual:
It is necessary to have the backhoe detached when using rear remotes, the 3-point hitch or any other valves that are downstream of the backhoe valve. Failure to do this may cause the exceeding allowable back pressure to break the seal or case of the backhoe valve. (Yes, this is the exact wording from the manual)

Thirsty- I trashed a couple of BH92 valve seals by using a rear remote for my plow with the PB port connected to the BH, so I know this is not merely theoretical.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Thirsty- I trashed a couple of BH92 valve seals by using a rear remote for my plow with the PB port connected to the BH, so I know this is not merely theoretical.

Ouch.

 

[Fallon]

I agree, But I have one thing to add. As long as you are connecting to the rear remotes I'd go for 1/2" lines, this way you have full flow if you ever want to run a quick attach post hole auger, demolition hammer, etc.

I'd agree for non-plow stuff. However I just hooked up my new Plow Dogg SSQA plow & it's a bit fast & twitchy even at low RPM. I might be getting restrictors for it. It's not that bad, but I prefer things a little smoother & more controllable. A long run of smaller hose would have similar effect.

Hard to compare a different plow on a different tractor with much longer hydraulic runs to mine though. And if you ever might put something else up there bigger plumbing will be more flexible.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

No, I'm sure you'd need restrictors to use 1/2" hose.

I have factory installed front remotes on my tractor but they only flow a little bit for actuating cylinders. I had two times last year that I would have liked to rent skid steer implements but needed the full flow that my rear remotes provide. There was no time to order and install hoses at the time so I had to rent a mini-ex both times.

I now have all the 1/2" hose and fittings to install a set of front (full flow) remotes on my tractor.

 

[varmint]

I use a set of rear remotes, with 3/8" hoses. Quick connects, and a crossover relief valve. Almost swings too fast, but I know what to expect, so I just nudge the valve to pivot the plow. Keeping the lift and curl functions is good, since you will want to use them to push and lift snow as needed. Works fine, doesn't cost much. I don't need to pivot the plow constantly, so not having a third function isn't really a problem. I had used the curl circuit on an earlier tractor with the same plow, and it wasn't as useful. You can just see the hydraulic hoses on the left loader arm.

 

[LD1]

With a front diverter you wouldn't need to worry about speed control, you can feather it with the loader joystick.