GC1723 electrical question

[MXD]

Does anyone know what the draw is on the electrical system when the tractor is running? Anything close is fine, with or without lights. I'm curious how much margin I have in the alternator to add accessories before it can't keep up. It looks like it puts out 40amps, just not sure how much of that is "extra".

 

[WranglerX]

Biggest drain would be lamps, find out what watt rating of head lamps and tail lamps and calculate full drain.... IF system has incandescent lamps. replace them with LEDS and you gain "capacity" for accessories with out having to upgrade alternator and such...

Dale

 

[MXD]

Does anyone know what the draw is on the electrical system when the tractor is running? Anything close is fine, with or without lights. I'm curious how much margin I have in the alternator to add accessories before it can't keep up. It looks like it puts out 40amps, just not sure how much of that is "extra".

I was planning on replacing the headlights with some 1156 LEDs that draw 5.5 watts each. I believe the stock ones draw around 20 watts each so that'll be a big savings. I assume the engine electronics don't draw much?

 

[kenmbz]

On my GC1720 replaced all lights with LEDs, am able to run a small winch with the tractor at Idle for 30 seconds or so with no issues.

 

[cdaigle430]

In the winter I run four extra LEDs, the original lights and I run my chute deflector and augur on DC motors. Still have room for a DC heater for my feet I am also on my original 11 year battery. I have a tester I can try I think it works for DC as well as AC and I can measure the draw off the negative side?

 

[lpakiz]

If you have a Diesel engine, I don稚 believe there is any continuing draw after the battery is recharged from the starter doing its thing.
Now you need to add lights, wiper and heater motor if cabbed.
Typically, these are very, very easily handled by the alternator.
A voltmeter is a very valuable instrument, either hardwired and mounted, or temporarily attached with alligator clips.
It won稚 take long to determine if you are maintaining the battery voltage (approx 14 volts DC) or going backwards.
I would be pretty surprised if your alternator didn稚 keep up with most any draw you could reasonably place upon it.
Keep in mind, watts equals volts times amps.
Amps equals watts divided by volts.
If you know the watts draw of your accessory, divide by 12 (nominally) to get amps. Add all the amps up and check against the amp rating of your alternator.
There are also amp meters that clamp around a wire (or connect in series with your load) and measure how many amps are running thru it.
Also, many electrical loads demand a definite number of watts. If the voltage to the device is low (poor connection, wire too small) the amperage goes up, so that volts times amps still gives the watts that are demanded. We generally use 12 volts for calculating, but system voltage is usually higher, so the amp load will almost always be LESS than calculated.

 

[Dmacleo]

didn't do amp draw with them on but there is zero noticeable effect. also left on for 30 minutes with old battery and tractor started just fine even cold.



Amazon.com: LED Pods Light Bar 2inch 546W 546LM+6PCS 4inch 78W 78LM, LED Light Pods Spot Offroad Lights Bar Combo Beam, high Brightness led Light Bars for Trucks Off-Road SUV Rv ATV UTV Boat Lighting: Automotive

 

[kenmbz]

Looks good!

 

[WranglerX]

Aboput electrical draw....

My 1715 has 4 small incandescent lamp for head lights, each is 13 watt's, so for 4 its 56 watts or 4.38 amps
For turnsignals/emergency flashers it has 1073 bulbs , and rated at 23 watts or 1.8 amps (per bulb), in turn signal mode.... In E-Flasher mode both bulbs are rated together at 46watts or 3.6 Amps
For tail lamps it uses 2- 21/5 watt (dual filament bulb) 5 watt portion (x2 = 10 watts or 8.5 amps) for tail lamps and 21 watt (x2 for 42 watts = 3.28 amps) Yes red lens assembly flashes with amber assembly
Then there is utility lamp, bulb says 18.4 watts or 1.43 amps
And wiring diagram is no real help as it shows two bulbs per side for turn signal, but my assemblies only have one...

AND DO NO TAKE OUT head lamp bulbs unless serious about changing.... IF bulb drops out of holder and lands inside headlamp hoisting it is miserable to get housing out (but not complicated) to retrieve bulb...

IF you really need to see headlamp bulb it looks like this...

Other main draw other then instrumentation may be electric fuel pump...
Dale

 

[coolconnection]

didn't do amp draw with them on but there is zero noticeable effect. also left on for 30 minutes with old battery and tractor started just fine even cold.

View attachment 683158 View attachment 683159 View attachment 683160 View attachment 683161 View attachment 683162 View attachment 683163

Not to be rude but how tall are you people or your roll bar? That light as it’s mounted would give the back of my head a nice sunburn. The road ahead of me wouldn’t get any light past my fat head. I moved my turn signals to the inside and mounted some really bright LEDs in their place on the outside of the roll bar.