Got sick of slop in 3-point hitch on jd 3720

[jimgerken]

The stock equipment sidelink limiter on the jd 3720 was a plate in a tube, with several holes drilled. It seemed that there was never a pair of holes that lined up quite well enough to keep the boxblade from slopping back and forth a few inches (quick hitch installed too). I initially modified the tube part of the sidelink limiter by welding up the provided slot and put a hole in right where I needed one. Two days later it was all loose again. Got sick of that so built a new limiter. Bought a cat 0 toplink. Cut about four inches out of the center of the turnbuckle body, and TIG welded it back together. Cut 3/4 inch of threads off each forged threaded ball-joint end . Welded a tightening bar segment onto the jamb nut. And cross drilled the body of the tunbuckle to allow turning it with a small round bar. Painted the whole works green. Had to pull a tire to allow re-drilling the holes in the cast fitting and lower draft arms. These holes were originally 9/16", a sloppy fit for the 1/2" pins that they had in them (adding to the slop in the system). I needed them to be 5/8" (standard cat 0 link pin size). So drilled them 1/16" bigger. Attached two photos; before and after.
I did this to both sides of the 3-point system now.

 

[Willl]

Nice job Jim.

I notice they don't pivot on the same axes as the arms do, do they stay in the same tension through out its travel ?

 

[JB4310]

Nice job Jim.

I notice they don't pivot on the same axes as the arms do, do they stay in the same tension through out its travel ?

Yes I was gonna mention that to, you may need just a little bit of slack.

I to have the same set up with the pins and holes so I know what you mean about not finding the perfect fit, but once I forced it in one position it was nice and tight but when I lifted or lowered it got real springy, I could tell it wasn't happy.

Just something to keep in mind, it's a very nice HD modification though. Those pin and hole set ups are good for quick changes of rear implements, but since you have a QH, as I do to, once you get it where it's just right you shouldn't have to touch it again.

Another small issue with the stock sway controllers is that you can't always get an implement perfectly centered, not a real big deal, but it could be to a fussy person


JB.

 

[tessiers]

I did the exact same thing with a set of 1/4" ratcheting chain binders. Cut the hooks off and used 3/8" rated shakle on each end for the connections and cut the handle off so it just clears everything and it works real well.

 

[deepNdirt]

Good Idea and looks like the fix to all the slopping problems, although I suspect that you may be using quick Linch pins on them so you can move them over when you need to spread the arms to pull out of and back up to the implements,
again Great Idea

 

[slowzuki]

My larger Massey has 2 sets of pin locations, one set that leaves the arms at the same tension through the travel. The other takes the slack out when lifted then loosens when lowered. The manual says it is so a plow can move around in the ground without breaking the arms but won't swing when lifted.

The last tractor we had didn't even have a method of limiting sway. Wasn't an option. A pain when snowblowing and bushhogging.

 

[kennyd]

Good Idea and looks like the fix to all the slopping problems, although I suspect that you may be using quick Linch pins on them so you can move them over when you need to spread the arms to pull out of and back up to the implements,
again Great Idea

With the iMatch QH, there is rarely a need to adjust the sway.

 

[tessiers]

I got to thinking about it and my old ford NAA has a solid bar on 1 side that keeps the whole works from swaying, the other side just floats with the implement. That works really well, I just never gave it a thought.