Grain Drill Information

[Rockin' G Ranch]

I am trying to decide if I should buy this grain drill. It is a John Deere LL166 and is in excellent condition. Please review photos in this post on QDMA. Thanks for your comments.
Grain drill - QDMA Forums

 

[flusher]

I am trying to decide if I should buy this grain drill. It is a John Deere LL166 and is in excellent condition. Please review photos in this post on QDMA. Thanks for your comments.
Grain drill - QDMA Forums

First time I've seen this model.
I rebuilt two old Minneapolis Moline P3-6 drills that I bought for $275. I added about $250 in new parts, including a hydraulic cylinder to raise and lower the openers.

This drill looks to be in a lot better shape than those two MMs. Just be sure to carefully check out each of the flute feeds. Look for broken flutes. Be sure that the feeds rotate without jamming. The best way is to jack up the drill and turn the drive wheel(s) by hand while observing the feeds.

Good luck

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Does anyone have any information, operator's manual, etc.. on the John Deere LL166 Drill?

Does anyone know what seeds the LL166 was designed to plant?

Thanks.

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Might try giving these guys a shout, http://www.burrells.net/ . Also looks like an operators manual is available here https://techpubs.deere.com/products/ProductResults.aspx . I saw those pictures over on QDMA, sweet looking drill. The chart on my FB says it can drill oats, rye, wheat, buckwheat, beans, turnips, rape, canola, sorghum, etc. Those are just the ones off the top of my head. My FB drill is a "fluted feed", the feed rollers are fluted to carry the seed out of the box. On the QDMA posting you made yesterday, drill pic 007 shows the bottom of the seed box, looks like its a flute feed also. Probably will plant the same seeds. I found where the spacing is 5 15/16" between openers x 16 openers. That's pretty tight spacing, but you could always duct tape off every other drop for a 12", 18", 24" spacing, etc. That's actually what the chart on the hopper cover says to do. If you go to get it, check it over good. Those other posts are helpful with what to look for. Looks like it's in pretty good shape, I like those honkin big, steel spoke press wheels, too. HTH Mark

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Well - I bought it. Everything works exceptionally well. I ordered an Operators Manual and Parts List for it from the John Deere website. I can't wait to use it. But first, I'm gonna oil and gease everything.
Only issue is I can't turn the wheel (see picture) that changes the cutting depth. It's stuck good. I'm gonna try heating it and using penetrating oil to lossen the threads. I don't think it's a big problem.
Thanks for all the help.

 

[flusher]

Well - I bought it. Everything works exceptionally well. I ordered an Operators Manual and Parts List for it from the John Deere website. I can't wait to use it. But first, I'm gonna oil and gease everything.
Only issue is I can't turn the wheel (see picture) that changes the cutting depth. It's stuck good. I'm gonna try heating it and using penetrating oil to lossen the threads. I don't think it's a big problem.
Thanks for all the help.

Glad it's a good one.
Don't get any grease or oil on the flute feeds or in the seed cups. Use WD-40 or spray diesel fuel on these parts to keep them rust-free (once you clean the rust off these parts).

Here are a few photos of that Minneapolis Moline P3-6 drill I restored several years ago (10-ft wide, 20 hoes, single disc openers, grass seed boxes included).

I used cold galvanize spray paint on the fertilizer box to prevent rust.




Used the cold galvanize paint on the seed cups and used Gempler's rust converter on the flute feeds.



Have fun with your new drill.

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Only issue is I can't turn the wheel (see picture) that changes the cutting depth. It's stuck good. I'm gonna try heating it and using penetrating oil to lossen the threads. I don't think it's a big problem.

If it was me, I'd spray it down, try to turn it, spray, try, etc. Might not operate unless the boots are down, IDK. Don't get in a hurry with the hot wrench. All of the drills I've worked on, needed TLC in the depth adjustment department. Patience and PB Blaster won out. Mark

 

[jvacura]

I recently obtained the same drill. It's actually set up as a dual unit right now. I plan on separating it into two units. Mine has the large seed box, the fertilizer box, and also the small seed boxes. One other thing I noticed that is different, is the packing wheels on mine are covered in rubber where as yours are solid steel.
Good looking unit you have. If possible could you get more photos of where the hitch hooks up to the drill? I found an old hitch here at the farm which I believe is for the drill but I'm not sure.

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

If it was me, I'd spray it down, try to turn it, spray, try, etc. Might not operate unless the boots are down, IDK. Don't get in a hurry with the hot wrench. All of the drills I've worked on, needed TLC in the depth adjustment department. Patience and PB Blaster won out. Mark

I sprayed it down with Liquid Wrench and let it soak overnight. Turned easily the next morning.
I greased every zert fitting I could find and was amazed that grease was observed at every fitting immediately indicating it had been very well maintained.
I will use it next weekend to plant 6 acres of rye and oats.

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Good looking unit you have. If possible could you get more photos of where the hitch hooks up to the drill? I found an old hitch here at the farm which I believe is for the drill but I'm not sure.

It's at the Ranch now but I will post pictures of the hitch hook up next weekend. I did notice that it would be easy to remove by unlatching 2 pins.

Does your unit have a tongue for towing or did you convert it to a 3 point lift. I am thinking about converting mine to 3 point lift but not sure how I could do it.