Hay Wagon running gear deck replacement ideas

   #1  

kantuckid

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I just brought home a very nice David Bradley/ Sears Roebucks running gear. Has all matching, usable ag rib tires on original 15" wheels. It has no deck which is good for me as a lower price, plus easier to get home from a distance and less mess to renew the deck, etc..
I own a sawmill and my own timber so the deck wood is sort of free and will be most likely White Oak.

I don't need a hay wagon but rather a wagon to tote building materials to a build site ~ a mile or so from my mill and lumber piles over woods roads. Materials on tractor forks don't make it through the woods & trees!

I am familiar with various hay wagon setups but still trying to decide what my cut list will be for this wagon to haul lumber and cabin wall logs on. I'm leaning toward the obvious two stringers of oak about 3" x 8"s or 10"x 16'. But, to keep it easier to work from when load/unloading I'm thinking a low deck with short heavyish deck boards (6/4 oak) laying across the stringers the width of the new bed and length wise edge boards to button those down.
These gears have the adjustable tubes in the center frame so I can build it the length that works best for me. It was 14' frame and likely held a 16' deck when last used. That's my length plan now.

After my own use it will be sold later when I no longer need it so I want to build the new deck so it will attract buyers with other uses in mind. I'm currently putting it back together from transporting in axle halves. It will get a coat of red paint on frame and bright green on wheels- as original. This gear has the front bolster that tilts on top of the front axle to keep the load stable. Has the original Sears and Roebucks/David Bradley metal tag still riveted to the rear axle frame with model number & serial #.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
  
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kantuckid

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Gear is model 700 100 5
Serial # S-273255

If you can interpret that I'm be obliged, thanks. Also, the rear axle stinger beam holders seem to be an add-on which is fabricated from 1/4" steel plate to allow some movement such as a rear dump action. These holders retain the rear end of the stringer beam using 4 or 5 1/2 through bolts, wood ~ 3"-3.5" thick, with a built in steel angle plate to cause the end of stringers to have a back angled end cut sloped toward the front. These are U-bolted to the axle. I can use them for a rigid deck as well what with the front and rear stringers retained to the axle.
 
   #3  

bcp

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Put on the cross pieces but no deck. Bolt low stakes at the end of some of the cross pieces, maybe 4 per side.

Now you can load and unload the trailer with your tractor forks.

When the work is over, add the top deck.

Sort of like a farm version of a railroad log car.

Bruce

log-car2.jpglog-car.jpg
 
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   #4  

Kessler Farms

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Here is one I built, very similar to the build you are describing. 4x6 runners and 2x6 bed.
1626676039881.png
1626676039881.png
 
   #5  

oosik

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It took me about five years but I did completely ruin my 1000# single axle trailer. I haul BIG rocks and enormous chunks of pine tree trunks. I looked around at all the wimpy stuff that was available and decided to build my own farm wagon.

I purchased Horst model 185 running gear. Rated at ten tons. Built the farm wagon up from that.

The main frame rails - each is two 2x12's - screwed and glued together. The cross pieces - treated 6x6 timbers. The deck - 5/4 T &G plywood. The deck is 8' by 12'. I built this twelve years ago.

IMG_0003.jpeg
 
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kantuckid

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In my mind I have exactly what Kessler describes/pictures above! I don't think the log truck/railcar style with standards is what works best for me. The "logs" I will place on it will be sawed logs in whats called a "D" log style-6" thick by approximately 8-10" width having one natural bark edge hand peeled in my case. Other lumber will also be flat and piled on cross cants (4x4's etc.) allowing forks to be used. I don't need sides as oosik shows. I don't know what ton rating is for my wagon- it's either 5 or 8 tons I guess. Lacking a tractor I'm headed for our Southern States store to get them to pick it off my utility trailer so I can assemble the gear there and go back to tow it home.
All my new deck will be wood/ White oak I saw myself. PT lumber right now remains too pricey for my pockets. I won't bother with a rope eyebolt or hay back board as above, I'll leave that for the next person.
Thanks for the replies! I had to look up Thurlow, KY. It's right below Loretto, KY where this gear came from which is 110 miles from myself nearly in the Red River Gorge.
 
  
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kantuckid

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Here is one I built, very similar to the build you are describing. 4x6 runners and 2x6 bed.View attachment 706313View attachment 706313
I have two pieces of steel coming for one ends axle to stringer attachment before I get much done-plus 3 grand daughters to entertain too...

Remember that my own use will be hauling building materials that negotiate woods roads. For later resale my own best size is smallish for sure but reality says few bale square hay much. What little I see in my area is round and over in the bluegrass baled hay going to horse farms is mostly trucked, not wagons as I've seen.

I'm thinking 3x8 white oak stringers.
Deck white oak 5/4 x 6" x 7' length
Deck board pinch boards of 1x6 oak
Overall deck length of 14' via adjustable tube length

Fasteners- I'll use SPAX panhead torx screws for deck to stringers, hot dipped carriage bolts for lengthwise, edge pinch boards

Few questions I've got:

How much clearance between the deck bottom and top of tires?
How much deck overhang past axle top-front and rear? I see your deck hugs the tires in front. Thanks!
 
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   #8  

CobyRupert

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Remember that the height of your main stringers or beams might determine the clearance between the tires and the bottom of the deck. IMHO more is better.
I’ve seen some wagons where you can barely fit your flat hand between the two. I’ve also had a wagon put on a “smoke show” last year when I didn’t realize the end of main beam had cracked and let the rear corner settle down a couple inches.
 

Kessler Farms

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2021 John Deere 6105E, 2015 John Deere 6115D with H260 loader, John Deere 5100E, 2007 JD 5403 2wd, 2008 JD 5403 MFWD with Koyker 185 loader, 2010 JD 5203 2wd, Farmall Super A
There is about 3" clearance between tires and deck. The floor on this wagon is set back farther than normal due to the frame being older and having a shorter tongue. I hook wagons together, so there has to be a certain amount of clearance between wagons for them to turn short. I want wagon decks short so that they are about even height with the bale chute on my square baler.

 

Kessler Farms

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Thurlow, KY
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2021 John Deere 6105E, 2015 John Deere 6115D with H260 loader, John Deere 5100E, 2007 JD 5403 2wd, 2008 JD 5403 MFWD with Koyker 185 loader, 2010 JD 5203 2wd, Farmall Super A
I have some more pics, but for some reason can't figure out how to attach them today.
 
 
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