JohnS
Platinum Member
This is the 2nd pump I've seen fail this way. I guess if the seal holds, this is the next weakest link. Glad to see you are back and tractoring.
HELP - replacing hydraulic pump of Jinma 454LE
- Thread starter ejtaylor822
- Start date
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EFC
Veteran Member
I have literally buckets and buckets full of Chinese pumps that look identical. Some have fist size pieces missing out of the side.
Ranch_Hand_Supp
Advertiser
EFC, I noticed in your Profile that you Specialize in Repairing Tractors. With the experience that you have with seeing buckets of Chinese Pumps that have cracked or with busted out pieces. ...........
What did you find to be the cause ?
Recommend anything to help keep it from happening again?
Anything to Check when servicing the Tractor?
All Chinese pumps or just the 454LE ?
Maybe your opinion can help others protect there investment?
Thanks
Ronald
What did you find to be the cause ?
Recommend anything to help keep it from happening again?
Anything to Check when servicing the Tractor?
All Chinese pumps or just the 454LE ?
Maybe your opinion can help others protect there investment?
Thanks
Ronald
OP
ejtaylor822
Gold Member
John,
Yes, back to tractoring real good. Moved a 3-axle dump truck load of mulch, big brush pile and bush hogged about 2 acres. Only issue, was one of the hydraulic lines that I had moved/shifted to replace the pump was rubbing the front tire when turning real hard; repositioned the hose and all was well.
Was very paranoid at first. Got off the tractor often to check the lines, couplings and pumps. But, all was well.
Thanks.
Yes, back to tractoring real good. Moved a 3-axle dump truck load of mulch, big brush pile and bush hogged about 2 acres. Only issue, was one of the hydraulic lines that I had moved/shifted to replace the pump was rubbing the front tire when turning real hard; repositioned the hose and all was well.
Was very paranoid at first. Got off the tractor often to check the lines, couplings and pumps. But, all was well.
Thanks.
EFC
Veteran Member
Most were due to owners uncoupling the loader disconnects with the tractor running. Some are due to manufacturing defects. Japanese pumps are made from better materials and will usually blow an o-ring but Chinese pumps can’t handle it. No matter who makes the pump a sudden blockage in the flow is very damaging.
GuglioLS
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 1,155
- Location
- Edgewood, NM USA
- Tractor
- Jinma 354, 1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee, Komatsu Bulldozer
This has happened one too many times click here for some cheap insurace to prevent this in the future.
BTW Can I have the gear that has the splined shaft that comes out of it. ?????? I will pay for shipping / packing.
I want to retrofit a better pump on my tractor I need more GPM's for all the hydraulic stuff I added.
Let me know - or anyone else who has the splined shaft PM me lets work something out.
BTW Can I have the gear that has the splined shaft that comes out of it. ?????? I will pay for shipping / packing.
I want to retrofit a better pump on my tractor I need more GPM's for all the hydraulic stuff I added.
Let me know - or anyone else who has the splined shaft PM me lets work something out.
OP
ejtaylor822
Gold Member
Here are some pictures and the process I used to replace the hydraulic pump on my Jinma 454LE after a coupling was disconnected moving some brush. Please see this link, cheap insurance, for a very inexpensive way to help prevent this from happening to you. The sad part is that I had seen this and had purchased wire ties, was just waiting for time to perform this task.
Well, I have the time now….
Well, I have the time now….
Attachments
OP
ejtaylor822
Gold Member
The first thing I needed to do was get the pressure relieved out of the hydraulic system. This was necessary so that I could safely unhook the pump and get the coupling joined back together that caused all of this mess.
I used the stands that came with the Koyker loader to prop up the FEL. I did not want to lower the FEL any lower so that I could have good access to the pump. So, I used jack stands under the FEL stands to hold the bucket up.
Once secured, I put the FEL joystick in the “float” position. I went back and forth between the “neutral”, “lower”, “raise” and “float” positions several times ensuring the FEL was lowered as much as possible. Once the FEL looked to be lowered firmly on the stands, I left the control in float and pushed down on the bucket and tried to shake loose off the stands. The stands held. I then put the 3PH in float and went to the back of the tractor and pushed the 3PH all the way to the ground.
I used the stands that came with the Koyker loader to prop up the FEL. I did not want to lower the FEL any lower so that I could have good access to the pump. So, I used jack stands under the FEL stands to hold the bucket up.
Once secured, I put the FEL joystick in the “float” position. I went back and forth between the “neutral”, “lower”, “raise” and “float” positions several times ensuring the FEL was lowered as much as possible. Once the FEL looked to be lowered firmly on the stands, I left the control in float and pushed down on the bucket and tried to shake loose off the stands. The stands held. I then put the 3PH in float and went to the back of the tractor and pushed the 3PH all the way to the ground.
Attachments
OP
ejtaylor822
Gold Member
To verify some of the pressure had been taken off the system I tried reconnecting the coupling that was the source of my problem. Previously I had been unable to reconnect the coupling. After the FEL had been propped and the pressure relieved, I was able to snap the coupling back together without any issues. I then disconnected so that I could refill the reservoir without having it run out the loosened hoses at the pump.
With the pressure relieved I set out to remove the pump – see attached diagram. I started with the pressure, or work side, connections on the pump. The bolt that connects the hose to the pump is actually hollowed out through the length with a hole through the diameter near the bolt head.
I carefully loosened the bolt wearing gloves and protective goggles in case pressure was still in the system. There was not any pressure and the connector bolt came right out. I then tried to loosen the flange connector on the bottom of the pump but could not get a wrench or socket to the bolt heads. So, I loosened the connector nut for the pressure/system hose. Be CAREFUL when removing the hose connector from the flange as there is a small o-ring.
With the pressure relieved I set out to remove the pump – see attached diagram. I started with the pressure, or work side, connections on the pump. The bolt that connects the hose to the pump is actually hollowed out through the length with a hole through the diameter near the bolt head.
I carefully loosened the bolt wearing gloves and protective goggles in case pressure was still in the system. There was not any pressure and the connector bolt came right out. I then tried to loosen the flange connector on the bottom of the pump but could not get a wrench or socket to the bolt heads. So, I loosened the connector nut for the pressure/system hose. Be CAREFUL when removing the hose connector from the flange as there is a small o-ring.
Attachments
OP
ejtaylor822
Gold Member
With the hoses removed I was now ready to remove the pump. The pump is held on by the two bolts circled in the attached picture. With the bolts removed I tried to pull the pump loose, but, it would not budge. I tried a few knocks with a rubber mallet but this did not do any good. I pulled and tugged but the pump would not budge. I noticed there looked to be a brass gasket, had turned green, between the pump and the mount. I tried gently wedging the pump off behind the gasket with a screwdriver but to no avail.
