Help with new ym186d purchase

[Smoody]

Picked up a run down ym186d with Yanmar 650 loader.

This one needs a ton of work probably.

Where the heck is the hydraulic dipstick? I found a large yellow cap between the rear 3 point lift arms..is that the fill cap? The ym226d has a yellow cap/dipstick between your feet.

I also drained the oil and about a quart of water ran out first, I think the pistons are stuck. Cant move it with breaker bar on crankshaft.

This one may be sold for loader and parts, or a big project for someone.

 

[Barry 1]

On the left side,right near where the PTO lever goes in to the case.Little black knob-pull it out.
Yellow cap unscrews to fill it.

 

[Smoody]

Found it under a pile of leaves..thanks..

The 3 point arms are in raised position. The lever is down..so they are stuck or? I can lift the arms up with about 3" play but its like something is blocking them from going down..as in i can't force them down.

Hydraulic fluid looks OK..all shifters easily engage..just cant turn crank...any way to get penetrating fluid in top without pulling head? The pre cleaner air assembley is missing and water could easily had entered there..no filter in the housing..the exhaust is mounted horizontal so dont think water got in from there.

Radiator looks shot..hard gunk/rust between the fins...lower rad hose is cracked so all coolant has drained out.

Tractor had sit 5 yrs..no info as to why.

Meter shows 757.7...but who knows

 

[Barry 1]

Make sure the stop valve(front of seat) is un screwed all the way,and on the right side there is a little T-handle valve-the rate of drop valve.Turn it some and see if that lets it drop.It just turns,doesn't unscrew.When I first got mine,I could stand on the 3 point and it wouldn't go down till I turned the drop valve.
You might try pulling the starter and use a pry bar to turn the flywheel-alot more leverage than a socket on the crank.
Only way I know to get oil in the cylinders would be to pull the injectors,or remove one of the manifolds and the valve cover,push down a valve and spray it in a valve.

 

[California]

3 point arms are in raised position. The lever is down.

cant turn crank... pre cleaner air assembly is missing and water could easily had entered there..

Radiator looks shot..hard gunk/rust between the fins...lower rad hose is cracked so all coolant has drained out.

Tractor had sit 5 yrs..no info as to why

I love my YM186D and recommend them ... but its beginning to look like this one won't just buff out and be ready to put in service.

Worst case : Maybe the engine seized when that hose dumped the coolant? Or it was run without an air filter after the filter loaded up? I would make every effort to trace the history if possible.

In addition to the two hydraulic valves to check, there is position control linkage under the right side of the seat that might be adjusted to keep the 3-point arms up. maybe the guy adjusted it up for trailer towing or something. As the arms lower, the right arm tugs on the linkage. You can adjust the stop so the arm reaches bottom before it pulls on the linkage.

I like Barry's advice to get oil into the cylinders via a manifold. Note the valve cover has a permanent fiber gasket in its lip, don't gouge it breaking the cover free. The cover has tabs you can pry against, but don't crack the cover! Your injectors might come out easily, but in my same-age YM240 the injector bodies were rusted into the bore-holes so bad that removal was near impossible - so I recommend the manifold route instead. Possibly an intake valve was open and let in water, and now you can put oil in the intake manifold and it will run through that open valve to reach that cylinder. I wouldn't go in via injector or manifold before giving up prying the flywheel.

Maybe the loader etc are worth more parting it out instead of putting money into problem after problem.

How's the steering box? If you find excess slack, budget $500 there. (BTDT). Front axle 'kingpin' or gear slop? $$$$$$



Good luck with this one!

 

[winston1]

Here's the parts manual for it. Might help you locate things. http://downloads.pfgaustralia.com.au/intranetwebcache/Parts/PARTS LISTINGS/Yanmar/YM186D.pdf

 

[Smoody]

The steering is tight and responsive..no slack..the gear oil in front end looks clean and proper level.

Starter and selonoid engage..it acts like it wants to move..but the starter doesn't have enough torque.

I got the tractor free really , for what I paid the loader alone will bring more. Would like to get it running but probably just resale it or part it out.

 

[Smoody]

Purchased from a lady, her late husband owned it. She said it ran when parked, just wanted it out of her way.

 

[284 International]

? I can lift the arms up with about 3" play but its like something is blocking them from going down..as in i can't force them down.

My YM240D was exactly like that when I first got it. After checking the linkage, unscrewing the lock valve, fiddling with the loader controls, and everything else, I got a large piece of lumber, wedged it under the axle and over the lift arms. A judicious application of force eventually gave me a shockingly loud bang, and the arms lowered. Everything works fine now, and it doesn't even leak down. I don't know what let go, but it DID work. In retrospect, I should have simply gotten the thing running first, and used the hydraulics to break itself free, then checked to see if it would lower.


I know the headgasket will cost 50-odd dollars by the time you get it shipped, but honestly at this point I would just pull the head. My rationale is this: If the engine is actually rusted tight, I'd rather know beforehand anyway. If the internals are scored and rotten, you won't want to run it anyway, whether you're going to rebuild it or not. If you rebuild it, those pieces will be replaced anyway, including the headgasket. By trying to force things to move that really don't want to do so, I see bending a connecting rod, the crankshaft itself, or shearing off the crankshaft bolt as significant risks.

Those are all rather expensive to replace. There is a decent chance that the lower end of the engine may be fine, even if water came out of the crankshaft. Pulling the head may reveal corroded liners and rings, and a quick hone job, new rings, and a gasket will put the abused engine back in service. If the innards are a rusty mess of corroded nastiness, you at least know what you're dealing with. If the liners look ok, then drown the cylinders with ATF or penetrating oil, and give it some time.

I just don't see any major advantage in not pulling the head, given the overall condition of the the tractor.

 

[California]

Purchased from a lady, her late husband owned it. She said it ran when parked, just wanted it out of her way.

Maybe ask her neighbors? He may have had a buddy who knows the tractor better than the wife did. Any dealer stickers on it?

I like 284's advice, to pull the head and see what's going on if simple measures don't free it up.