Home Built Cab For Kubota

   / Home Built Cab For Kubota #1  

blksn8k

New member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
7
Location
West Central PA
Tractor
Kubota L2900
I finally decided to add a cab on my 1996 L2900 [AFFILIATE=1, nofollow=true, newwindow=true, title="Kubota"]Kubota[/AFFILIATE] tractor. Getting tired of dealing with nasty winter weather when plowing my 1/4 mile long lane. I did look at pre-fab'd canopies and soft cab enclosures that drape over a canopy but decided to build my own. Not only were those pre-fab'd parts expensive but they also would not fit over the rollcage I added several years ago.

Instead I bought three 4x8 sheets of clear .118" thick shatterproof polycarbonate, several 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 6 ft long perforated steel angles and a crap load of 1/4-20 nuts, washers and bolts.

I decided because the plastic sheets are clear that it might make more sense to paint the inside surface rather than the outside. This is a work vehicle and I have been known to drive under low hanging tree limbs while brush hogging around the edges of fields and I didn't want those tree limbs to scrape all that pretty orange paint off. BTW, the paint is there mostly to provide shade in the summertime which also explains why I extended it down so far on the side and rear panels.

I'll probably add a 12V heater and I have an LED light bar that I added above the windshield.

I was a little concerned about putting a bend in the middle of the windshield but it is surprisingly distortion free. The front section of the rollcage was made from discarded 2" tubing that was originally part of a cage I bought for my '75 Bronco. It already had bends where it fit behind the Bronco windshield and I decided to make the cab for the tractor fit the same contour. The tractor came from the factory with the rear hoop (ROPS bar), I just added to it.

The doors hinge at the rear. I used stainless steel piano hinges and latches/handles made for shed doors. The latches also have keyed locks.

I also included an extension of the roof panel over the windshield to try and keep at least some of the crap from the weather off and also to provide a little extra shade. The frame for that also serves as a mounting surface for the light bar. I don't plan on taking it to Bonneville so I'm perry sure the aerodynamics will be fine. 😯
 

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   / Home Built Cab For Kubota #2  
Nice job! Should definitely help with keeping the elements out!
 
   / Home Built Cab For Kubota #3  
Nicely done. (y)
 
   / Home Built Cab For Kubota #4  
Dam that looks good - Looks professional. That must have taken alot of thought and work. I hope it serves you well
 
   / Home Built Cab For Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Dam that looks good - Looks professional. That must have taken alot of thought and work. I hope it serves you well

Thanks. I'm a retired technical designer. The office space and loft inside the building were some of my other DIY projects.
 
   / Home Built Cab For Kubota #6  
Thanks. I'm a retired technical designer. The office space and loft inside the building were some of my other DIY projects.
That's a very nice work space you made there. I'm jealous (y)
 
   / Home Built Cab For Kubota #7  
Very nice !! Looks like that would fit right onto my L3010 :)


Did you have to heat that poly carb for the windshield bend or is it that flexible.


gg
 
   / Home Built Cab For Kubota #8  
Replacement parts, if ever needed, should be easy to source. Nice 👍
 
   / Home Built Cab For Kubota #9  
very well done, looks professional and like original equipment.

What did you use to mount the framework to the tractor?
 
   / Home Built Cab For Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Very nice !! Looks like that would fit right onto my L3010 :)


Did you have to heat that poly carb for the windshield bend or is it that flexible.


gg
It's that flexible. I also had to add braces on the door panels because of the flexibility but also to aide in bending those in at the bottom to better align with the floor pan on each side. The internal bracing also gave me a place to solidly attach a u-bolt to use as a grab handle when closing the doors from the inside.

Also because of the flexibility, I added rubber weather stripping around the perimeter of each door panel as well as on the door opening frame. That not only helps to keep things dry inside but also cuts down on the doors banging against the body.

Speaking of the doors, I probably won't use the one on the right side much if at all because of the position of the loader control handle. However, I didn't think it would be safe to have only one door. If I am ever stupid enough to roll the thing on its side or get it wedged up against a tree or something and if it had only one door and landed on that side you would have no escape hatch.

I also had to fabricate a spacer block out of aluminum to move the loader control valve 1" closer toward the center of the tractor which prevents the handle from hitting the right side door when tilting the bucket forward.

To keep the wind and exhaust fumes from entering around the bottom I also fabricated closure panels from galvanized sheet metal that fit beside the engine cover on each side and behind the seat. Then I added some sound deadener on the inside of those to cut down on the amount of diesel rattle inside the cab. Even with all that I still wear ear protection.

We haven't had much snow yet this winter so I haven't had a chance to try it yet with the rear mounted snow blower that runs off the rear PTO. It's six feet wide and I used to get covered with snow when using that thing no matter which way I aimed the chute. This should solve that problem as well.
 

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