Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea

   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea #1  

jgoodma1

Bronze Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
95
Location
Raleigh, NC
Tractor
Kubota L4060
Well, I've been wanting to rig up a contraption for carrying my chainsaw on my Kubota L4060 so I wouldn't have to put it in the bucket when I'm in the woods cutting up downfallen trees. I know there are kits on the market like SawHaul, but I didn't want to spend $180 on the thing and I'm not crazy about the polyethylene scabbard on the SawHaul. I keep my saw sharp and just with just sliding my Stihl scabbard on and off the bar, I quickly cut through the top and bottom edge of the scabbard from it rubbing against the teeth of the chain. I also don't know how to weld and even if I did, I did not want to design something where I would be grinding away paint and having to repaint raw steel. I think this idea would be pretty adaptable to most compact and subcompact tractors.

The u-bolt attachment method for the SawHaul only gives you 2 connection points and I wanted something a bit more rigid than that. What I came up with was using beam clamps (top-of-beam type) that just clamped to the steel plate on the driver's side of the FEL where the FEL arm and cylinder attach.

So, I attached 4 beam clamps that receive 3/8" threaded rod. The locations of the 4 clamps just need to be accessible, not interfere with the loader cylinder, and fit within a 12" x 12" square area. The reason for that 12x12 dimension is that I attached a leftover piece of 12" x 12" x 1/4" thick aluminum plate to 4 pieces of 3/8" threaded rod, each 4" long and threaded onto and projecting equally from the 4 beam clamps. I then screwed a nut all the way onto each piece of threaded rod and tightened each nut against the beam clamp to act as jam nuts and prevent possible loosening. I then held up the aluminum plate to the projecting pieces of threaded rod and marked their locations on the backside of the aluminum plate. I drilled 0.50" diameter holes through the aluminum plate in each of the 4 locations. Then I screwed 4 nuts 3/4" onto the threaded rod to act as standoffs, slid a washer onto each rod up to the nut, slid on the aluminum plate, slid on another washer, and then screwed on another nut. All the nuts I used were nylon lock nuts to prevent any of them from loosening from vibration.

With the mounting plate in place, I now attached the scabbard that will hold the saw. I made my own scabbard out of cellular PVC. For those of you not familiar with this material, it is used in the home building business as a substitute for lumber in exterior trim and siding installations. I had a millwork manufacturing business and used this material extensively. It can be cut and shaped with standard woodworking/carpentry tools. It also can be screwed together without pre-drilling, without fear of it splitting like wood. It comes in a variety of thicknesses from 1/4" thick up to 1-1/2" thick. In the case of building the scabbard, I used 5/8" thick material that is readily available from lumberyards that cater to the professional builder. It comes in standard dimensional lumber widths, as well as 4x8, 10 ,12 & 18' sheets. A couple of the better known brands are Azek and Versatex. You won't find this thickness and size assortment at big box stores. Another great feature of this material is that it can be glued with standard PVC cement that is used with PVC plumbing pipe. PVC cement "solvent welds" the material together and it cannot be pulled apart. In the case of my saw scabbard, I both glued and screwed the material together.

So, this PVC material is much thicker than the polyethylene used for the SawHaul scabbard and will be much more durable. And, a new scabbard can be easily made again if for some reason in the distant future, you need to do that. I'm not going to go into the specifics of making the scabbard, because it's pretty self-evident from the attached photos. Depending on the size of your saw and bar, make the scabbard accordingly. With my saw, I made a 4" wide, 5/8" deep, 20" long slot. I used 3 layers of 5/8" PVC. The front and back layers were 7" wide and 20" long, with 1-1/2" wide filler pieces along the edges for the middle layer to create the 4" wide slot (1.5 + 4 + 1.5 =7). I screwed a 1-1/2" tall block in place at the bottom of the slot for the tip of the bar to rest on. This block can be replaced if needed. I built up a rim at the top, the top layer of which is removable for replacement if it gets chewed up from sliding the saw into and out of the scabbard.

After making the scabbard, I bolted it to the aluminum mounting plate, with the four 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolts passing through the 1-1/2" wide area along the sides of the scabbard, and through the aluminum plate. I again used a washer and nylon lock nut to secure the bolts.

It works great, is rock solid and easy to remove, and easy to repair, if necessary. It also drops the saw a little lower than the SawHaul so it's easier for a vertically-challenged, (and old) guy, like myself, to lift the saw high enough to easily slide it into the scabbard.
 

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   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea #2  

Kioti Dave

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2019
Messages
240
Location
Leduc Alberta Canada
Tractor
2016 Kioti NX4510 HSTC
very nice job. I would have never come up with a design like that. That is what I love about this forum. Great ideas that are shared. Your plan gives me more ideas of mounting my saw on my NX4510.
 
   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea #3  

Kioti Dave

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2019
Messages
240
Location
Leduc Alberta Canada
Tractor
2016 Kioti NX4510 HSTC
That's a pretty big saw for a "vertically challenged old guy" 😁😁 I have an MS362, and I thought that was heavy. I'm also a "vertically challenged old guy."🤪
 
   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea
  • Thread Starter
#4  
OP
J

jgoodma1

Bronze Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
95
Location
Raleigh, NC
Tractor
Kubota L4060
Now, you're up yonder in the great, white North, so I'll bet you can just throw a shovel or two of that cold smoke you've got up there into a heap and pack it into a platform next to your Kioti and gain an inch or six in height and you'll be able to lift that MS 362 up high enough just fine!
 
   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea #5  

ning

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Messages
1,833
Location
Northern California
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Branson 3520h
Stupid question time - where is the weight of the chainsaw resting on these sorts of scabbards? I assume it's not on the end of the bar; is it on the bumper spikes? Is there any concern about the weight of the power head flexing the bar as the tractor bounces around?
 
   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea #6  

Mrsig

Gold Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2021
Messages
379
Location
Bushnell, Fl
Tractor
LS MT225 4x4
Top class job!
 
   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea #8  

Gordon Gould

Super Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
5,709
Location
NorthEastern, VT
Tractor
Kubota L3010DT, Kubota M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G Dozer
Stupid question time - where is the weight of the chainsaw resting on these sorts of scabbards? I assume it's not on the end of the bar; is it on the bumper spikes? Is there any concern about the weight of the power head flexing the bar as the tractor bounces around?

Not a stupid question at all. Yes, the head of the saw rests on the rim of the scabbard. Often the dogs chew it up a little to make a sort of form fit. There is very little flex force on the bar as long as the scabbard is long enough to go up to the head or at least close. It's a common tried and true method of carrying a saw.

gg
 
   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea #9  

Gordon Gould

Super Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2007
Messages
5,709
Location
NorthEastern, VT
Tractor
Kubota L3010DT, Kubota M5640SUD, Dresser TD7G Dozer
I really like your beam clamp idea jgoodma1 !! And nice work.

gg
 
   / Homemade Chainsaw Carrier - Yet another idea
  • Thread Starter
#10  
OP
J

jgoodma1

Bronze Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
95
Location
Raleigh, NC
Tractor
Kubota L4060
Stupid question time - where is the weight of the chainsaw resting on these sorts of scabbards? I assume it's not on the end of the bar; is it on the bumper spikes? Is there any concern about the weight of the power head flexing the bar as the tractor bounces around?

No, that's a good question. Originally, I had the bar slot completely open at the bottom and the weight was resting on the top and bottom spikes, which are longer than the two middle spikes. I did not like all the weight of the power head on those 2 spikes, so I screwed a block in place at the bottom of the slot so the end of the bar rested on the block and lifted the power head up 1 inch so the spikes do not contact the top of the scabbard. I take a small wooden wedge and jam it into the slot between the bar and inner wall of the outer layer of PVC to keep the bar pressed against the inner face of the front layer of PVC of the scabbard. So far, no problem, but I do have the same concern as you and may tweak the design to prevent all flexing.
 
 
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