Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower

   / Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower #1  

Richard001

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Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
1,457
Location
Plymouth, MN
Tractor
Jd lx178
The problem is that it starts OK when cold, but after it warms up, it will not start, it just kinds chugs a bit then stops.

The engine is a GCV160 with the automatic choke, using a Hutdkte 16100-Z0L-876 carb. I have replaced the spark plug. After it runs a bit, and then it will not start, upon checking the plug, it is all full of soot. So I guess it's running rich. I removed the air filter to watch the choke action and it stays partly on for a while, the in a few minutes, it opens completely. The choke action is activated by one of those gas or fluid filled tubes that expand when hot, so when it warms up, it takes the choke off.

Also I think that some gas is getting into the crankcase as it was way overfilled.

i have not check the valve lash yet, that is next, however there is no issue with pulling the rope to start, so I'm not sure if valve lash is a problem.

I now have the carb off and completely disassembled. The float does not have any adjustment, it's just a piece of plastic. To me, it looks like the fuel level would be to high in the bowl with this float.

On several occasions, the engine would just shoot out a big cloud of smoke as it was running, and one time, it shot out a big flame from the muffler followed by a big cloud of smoke.

So there it is guys. Other than checking the valves and cleaning the carb the best I can, whats going on ?

Richard
 
   / Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower #2  
I think I'd toss that carb and put the correct OEM Honda carb on. If your choke is open and it is running rich, the carb has issues. You could tweak the float level a bit lower for a try. Truth is in the real world, valve lash very rarely has to be set on these. The absolute only valve issues that I see on these are sticky stems from old fuel deposits or the occasional dented valve cover that interferes with a rocker. If you choose to do your valve lash, the covers are dainty and carefully start at the top.
 
   / Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower #3  
If you haven't already replace the air filter. Honda filters tend to have an issue with gas, oil, or water saturation that prevents them from proper air flow even after they dry. Also don't mess around with cleaning that carb. A new OEM is only $24.
 
   / Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower #4  
Sounds as though the float is letting too much gas come through, just enough for it to run rich. Too rich to start hot.

Our Honda mower was the best one we ever had. Never refused to start even in the dead of winter with electric start dead. Pull the cord once, and it started.

All battery power now.
 
   / Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I think I'd toss that carb and put the correct OEM Honda carb on. If your choke is open and it is running rich, the carb has issues. You could tweak the float level a bit lower for a try. Truth is in the real world, valve lash very rarely has to be set on these. The absolute only valve issues that I see on these are sticky stems from old fuel deposits or the occasional dented valve cover that interferes with a rocker. If you choose to do your valve lash, the covers are dainty and carefully start at the top.
Well I did take off the valve cover yesterday afternoon, and I should have known I guess, but I did not raise the front of the mower and as I removed the cover, engine oil poured out all over my work bench. What a mess.

Haven't checked the valves yet, watched a video on Youtube and the guy never mentioned the compression release feature. He said, just get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke. If I do that, is the compression release out of the picture by then ?
 
   / Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower #6  
The Briggs OHV set of instructions tends to mess people up on others. No, set it at TDC. If you take an inspection mirror and look up from the bottom, you will see the two tabs which indicate you are there. This verifies the belt timing, which is fine I'm sure. .006 I .008 E w/i .0015
While you are under there, look at the notch on the pin and its positioning on the valve cover. The pin comes out, you learn how to time the valves from scratch. ;) .

It's a good time to double check that your zone cable is also pulling the tab completely off the kill switch should you have the shroud off yet.
 
   / Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower
  • Thread Starter
#7  
It's a good time to double check that your zone cable is also pulling the tab completely off the kill switch should you have the shroud off yet

I did check that, and I found it to be marginal so I bent the tab a bit to make it more positive action.
 
   / Honda HRR2168VKA walk-behind mower
  • Thread Starter
#8  
OK to finish up this story, yesterday I did check the valve lash and it was fine. the exhaust was just a bit over the .008 spec, but it wasn't enough for me to bother with it. The intake lash was perfect.

Found some really good gasket forming stuff in my shop cabinet that I had forgotten about and it really works, not a drop leaking from the valve cover.

Reassembled the carb and bolted it on. Moved the mower outside and pulled the rope. Started on the second pull. After letting in run for a minute or so, I shut it off, the went to restart. Engine went put, put a bit then died. Pulled the rope again and then it started.

So I still suspect the carb and that the float level is too high. Turned mower over to the owner and told him that if it acts up again, we will have to replace the carb. Also suggested that he turn the fuel valve off when not i use.
 
 
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