Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt!

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irvingj

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Heard some new sounds today while in low range 4wd descending a hill... decided to look more closely, and discovered at least three of the four engine mounts are broken! Engine has shifted forward, and the sound I heard was a couple of front-plate shield bolts contacting the flywheel. Pics below, notice how exhaust pipe is contacting frame, and fan is just about totally outside the fan shroud.

Oh, well.. she's been great for about 3 years now and has 762 hours.... guess it was time for something to give, I work her pretty hard. Will try to post developments.

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Hellooo over the hill.
Is there some kind of recall of sort to help w/repairs?
 
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Very sorry, mate! As you say, they don't last forever. Do keep us posted!
 
  
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irvingj

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Nah, Thomas, I doubt it. She's now getting into middle age, no warranty I'm sure.

Couldn't sleep, worrying about that and other things, so went back out to play with it. Yep, now confirmed, all four motor mounts ("insulators" in the parts book) have failed.

Have no idea what caused the failure, though I'm sure those rubber mounts get stressed every time I go down slopes (which is often) in low range 4wd. That's when the engine would want to shift forward. Still have to check out the coupling/driveshaft that goes rearward and into the hydraulic pump; not sure how that's doing, but it's gotta be stressed, too. Glad it didn't pull loose!

Have begun search for parts and so far have found one source, @ $21.40 each, but have yet to get availability. https://www.yourequipmentparts.com/...-fuel-and-exhaust-system/engine-mounting.html

Interestingly, Jack's showed no listing when I searched their site, but I'll check again. In looking at it tonight it appears I can change all four without having to fully remove the engine... but that still needs to be verified. Sure hope so. Right now all I've done is put a floor jack and a wooden block beneath it to raise the engine a bit. (Of course, that was AFTER pulling the BH and the FEL --which I had just put on to pull some small stumps-- and the MMM!)

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   #5  

mrmikey

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Glad there wasn't more damage.
It looks as if all the strain is on a bonded/glued joint, no backup in the design when it lets go like there wound be if a rod for example went thru the complete mount so it can't pull apart. Any chance it would be worthwhile trying to make something? If it did it once, it'll do it again............Mike
 
  
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irvingj

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Well, we're still assessing damage, but it does appear minimal at this point. My thoughts, too, Mike-- drill through the rubber and put a bolt all the way through...? Not sure if that can easily be done. Looks like 3 of them separated at the bottom, one at the top.

Pretty much worked through the night, and I just hit it with a degreaser to clean things up a bit. Later today I'll call Jack's (I did find the part, just about the same price) and ask if they have them (hoping...!) or if I'm going to have to wait a month. That would be most inconvenient. (Glad I just finished mowing the lawn before mounting the BH and FEL!)
 
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mrmikey

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My thoughts, too, Mike-- drill through the rubber and put a bolt all the way through...
That's what I was thinking also. You'd have to put rubber on top or bottom also to allow a bit of cushion when the motion is stretching rather than compression.......Mike
 
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Dang, Irving, say it ain't so! Sorry to hear about near catastrophe but glad you got her stable and back in the workshop. One more thing to add to my pre-start checklist.

-Phil
 
  
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irvingj

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Yes! Looking back on it (ain't 20-20 hindsight great?), I now see where there were warning signs that I didn't understand... the chafing on my upper radiator hose due to the air cleaner box contacting it (why'd that happen? -- bent bracket slightly to add clearance), increased "rattling"/shaking in the ROPS lights (it's just cold today...?), the lowered ROPS itself (wrapped a bungee around it)... quite a few things related to what I'm guessing now were probably all related to increased engine movement.

Guess I SHOULD have looked at the mounts back then.... :confused3:

So-- all who have a similar-aged tractor... you might want to look at those mounts. Incidentally, it appears ALL the GC tractors use those same mounts, even the current 17XX series.
 
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ray66v

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Sorry for you bad luck.

Since yours seems to be the exception, perhaps your mounts are defective. And, perhaps AGCO will give you new ones?

I'd ask.
 
  
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irvingj

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Yeah, it's a bit of a mystery, Ray. Can't say as I've ever seen motor mounts --that weren't on a high-powered competition machine-- fail like that. All four....
 
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cdaigle430

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there's lot of vibration from these engines, are you the original owner?
 
  
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irvingj

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Yep, since day one.... back in Feb of 2008.
 
  
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irvingj

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Still waiting for factory parts...

In the meantime -- and because I NEED my tractor (withdrawal??) -- I decided to go at it again. Jacked the engine up, removed the front two mounts and, after much playing dangerously with a pocket knife, screwdriver, razor & a pair of vise-grips, was finally able to remove the one metal plate that was still bonded to each one. Chocked the rubber blocks in a vise and --surprise!-- was able to drill a hole through them. I then used two 5/16 x 2-1/2 bolts with fender washers, nuts and locks to re-install them.

No, it's not right, but at least they're holding the engine in its proper position while providing some cushioning. Now back to mowing.... and waiting for the right parts...

PS-- it sure looks naked without all that red sheet metal!! :laughing:

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irvingj

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On the top where the nut is.
 

ray66v

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That's probably better anyway.
 

AxleHub

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Irving, you're fearless. If that happened to me I'd be having nightmares imagining the hidden damage of an engine pulling itself forward (or falling itself forward as the case may be).

You just jump right into the fray.

My question would be - this seems like a significant thing and I can't imagine if one came loose that the other three would just do the same unless it happened over a long period of time. it would seem that there are seals in connecting components being stressed or fits being separated with an engine actually moving. Even wires being stretched.

While your warranty is certainly long ago expired - its hard to believe that just going down hills would be a cause - and I'd think checking with a good service department might give an idea if there isn't some issue established for checking for this or some incident reports or maybe a recall of selected units. Imagine what wouild be the cost of this - if you weren't skilled enough to service it yourself. Parts are a small part compared to labor on something like this.

As a preventive maintenance thing - how would an operator even be able to check on something like this ?
 
  
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irvingj

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Thanks, but definitely not fearless... at least not as much as I used to be, for sure! It's just that my lawn is getting taller and I'll be da$#@ed if I'll pay somebody close to $200 to mow it for me, and I'm having doubts about how soon I'll get those factory parts. Necessity often gets me motivated! (Hey, I may be cheap, but I'm CHEAP!!)

Now when it comes to one of my "restoration" projects, a 1971 Honda CB 100 (yeah, a 100, a real monster) that I just got running fairly well recently... yesterday the kickstarter shaft broke clean off. That means a full engine removal, tear-down and case split, and I'm not really sure if I want to tackle that. Just don't have the confidence I used to! (Getting lazy in my old age??)

As far as preventive maintenance on the motor mounts... no maintenance, but it might pay to take a look at them every now & then. You're right, I'm sure one broke initially, placed more stress on the remaining mounts, and progressed from there. Still not sure why, however; just wish I'd picked up on it sooner.

As far as damage due to the engine shifting, no, at least not that I could see. My biggest concern was the driveshaft, connected directly to the engine crankshaft, that goes under the floor to operate the main hydraulic pump (the one with the plastic fan on it). Fortunately, there's --apparently-- enough splined-shaft length in there that it didn't pull out completely. Now THAT would have created some REAL issues -- I shudder to think of that scenario!
 

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Those look like the common bonded isolation mounts you can get at McMaster Carr for around $2.50. Chances are that one failed due to fuel or oil contamination and allowed more movement which exceeded the movement range of the rest, causing them to let go. What you've done with the thru bolt is how it should have been done from the start. Granted, you might get a few harmonics that you wouldn't get with a true Lord mount like the PA-22 has, but you won't have the engine wandering.
 
  
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I never thought to check McMaster-Carr! You're right, they're bonded ones.

I did find one other site that specialized in vibration insulator mounts, however, and found similar results to McMaster-Carr: the studs on my mounts (and the holes through the 1/4" steel plates where they attach) are sized for 8 x 1.25 metric. I used 5/16" bolts for my "temporary" fix.

The problem is the size/height of the rubber. The OEM mounts are 1.75 x 1.75 inches, or about 45 mm square, not including the protruding studs. Not available, apparently (for a reason, methinks?) in 8mm, only in 10mm. I was really hoping to avoid having to drill out those mounting holes, which are securely welded to the frame members.

On the bright side (right), I checked Jack's online order status site -- looks like Jack's isn't expecting the OEM mounts from M-F until 6/23. Glad I went with my temporary fix so I can get back to my lawn-that's-looking-like-a-hayfield!
 

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I'm incredibly lazy so what I would have done is leave the existing mounts in place, cut some rubber discs out of an old tire sidewall with a hole saw and use them for the missing bolt thru mounts.
 

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Irving,

I still marvel at the concept that the engine mounts didn't break but that the whole engine had shifted forward. I'm curious how you decide which hardness of bolt or locator pins to use. Will you want a 2 or 3 or a 6 or 8 ? Is there a high density nylon locator pins you could use to cut down on vibration transfer yet keep the engine in place and then have clips or pins to keep it from moving rather than nuts ?
 
  
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irvingj

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Actually the mounts did break. Take a look at the 2nd & 3rd pics on my first post: these are rubber cylinders, in effect, with two steel plate/stud assemblies bonded to the tops & bottoms of the rubber cylinders. The idea is that there is no metal-to-metal contact in this type of mount. The steel plates on two of them ripped off at the top and the other two on the bottom, IIRC. Take a look at the pics below: the shiny plate is the one that had let go; the other one is partly shiny and you can see where I had to cut the rest of it off to get at the rubber part.

The mounts were still in there, held by the weight of the engine. However, once one end on each of the mounts had separated, there was really nothing to hold the engine in its proper position & alignment and it slid forward (and to the right a bit) until the flywheel was contacting a bolt on a front plate. Still think I was lucky that the splined HST driveshaft didn't pull all the way out! (See middle pic -- and yes, I did clean out that area and get some oil on those splines.)

As far as the bolts, I just used regular hardware-store 5/16 x 3-1/2" bolts, fender washers, nuts & lock washers. Don't even know what the hardness number is and didn't pay any attention to that, as I'm (at this point) planning to pull those bolts as soon as I get the factory parts.

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mrmikey

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Hey Irving, I'm looking at the second pic above, the one with the yoke....it looks awful dry and powdery, time for some moly?....................Mike
 

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Actually the mounts did break. Take a look at the 2nd & 3rd pics on my first post: these are rubber cylinders, in effect, with two steel plate/stud assemblies bonded to the tops & bottoms of the rubber cylinders. The idea is that there is no metal-to-metal contact in this type of mount. The steel plates on two of them ripped off at the top and the other two on the bottom, IIRC. Take a look at the pics below: the shiny plate is the one that had let go; the other one is partly shiny and you can see where I had to cut the rest of it off to get at the rubber part.

The mounts were still in there, held by the weight of the engine. However, once one end on each of the mounts had separated, there was really nothing to hold the engine in its proper position & alignment and it slid forward (and to the right a bit) until the flywheel was contacting a bolt on a front plate. Still think I was lucky that the splined HST driveshaft didn't pull all the way out! (See middle pic -- and yes, I did clean out that area and get some oil on those splines.)

As far as the bolts, I just used regular hardware-store 5/16 x 3-1/2" bolts, fender washers, nuts & lock washers. Don't even know what the hardness number is and didn't pay any attention to that, as I'm (at this point) planning to pull those bolts as soon as I get the factory parts.

View attachment 558452View attachment 558453View attachment 558451

Next time, skip the split lock washers, they are a waste of time on smaller bolts.

I'd use lock nuts. Or, double nut it, if I'm really worried about it coming loose.
 
  
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irvingj

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Yeah, Ray, I thought about double-nutting it, but the bolts weren't quite long enough. Self-locking nuts would have been best. Mike-- I did clean all the debris out of there while I had it apart and got some oil on those splines. Wanted to take a pic, but forgot and had it all together too quickly. Interesting that there's no way to grease that splined joint on the HST driveshaft.

Good news, however-- just got an email from Jack's and the new mounts are on the way to NH from MD and I should have them next Monday! (They were originally not expected at Jack's from M-F until 6/23.)

I'll take some more pics of that area on the floor beneath all the covers where the HST driveshaft lives when I install the new mounts-- a real good place for all kinds of grass & dust to accumulate. Take a look at the top edge of that middle pic and you see just the tip of the iceberg of the debris that collects along the bottom edge of the radiator. And doesn't come out with the radiator screen. Here's a couple "before" shots of that space. And yes, I did re-position that grommet so it fits in the hole the way it's supposed to.

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AxleHub

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Irving,

If the engine mounts actually broke as your later post indicates, that creates a couple more questions. It would seem that means re-welding of the mounts. Wouldn't that require pulling the engine and detaching a number of other components to get clear access?

It would seem cleaning the effected area to be re-welded would mean not just getting it oil, grease, and dirt free. . . but would also require removal of paint to get good metal to weld blending.

That whole process would imply a pretty significant effort to properly secure those mounts to frame. Am I missing something?
 

mrmikey

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..... oil on those splines.
Good show Irv. You'd be better off using moly paste tho, it's a better lubricant where sliding is involved, especially in splines such as that. If you look up the specs for any shaft drive bike as an example, moly paste is recommended as it, according to what I've read, bonds to the sliding surfaces and prevents metal to meal contact.
Glad your other parts are arriving :)..............Mike
 

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Axle as OP said (Actually the mounts did break. Take a look at the 2nd & 3rd pics on my first post: these are rubber cylinders, in effect, with two steel plate/stud assemblies bonded to the tops & bottoms of the rubber cylinders. The idea is that there is no metal-to-metal contact in this type of mount. The steel plates on two of them ripped off at the top and the other two on the bottom, IIRC.

The mounts were still in there, held by the weight of the engine. However, once one end on each of the mounts had separated, there was really nothing to hold the engine in its proper position & alignment and it slid forward (and to the right a bit) until the flywheel was contacting a bolt on a front plate.

The (mount) is the replaceable isolator the root of the problem is more about (how) the mount is constructed

Kind of surprised that there wasn't some type of (captured) isolation mount used
.
I know with some car engines it was possible to buy a standard bonded mounts and you could also buy upgraded mount that fit in the same place and had full vibration damping but if the isolator rubber failed the mount could not separate because it is constructed in such a way that even if the bonding fails it can only move a small amount not completely separate like what happened here.
 
  
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irvingj

irvingj

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Yes, I've seen that kind of "captured" mount-- and yes, that could have been used here, if there were more space, maybe. Kinda tight as it is.

Mike, thanks for the tip; I'm planning to open up that section on the floor again when I have other stuff apart so I can get some real grease in there.

Axle, hope you get the picture, words are difficult at times to describe a situation... The actual mounting lugs (L-shaped 1/4" steel plates with a 9mm hole in them) on the frame and the engine are all intact, it was just the metal disc & stud on the insulator/isolator/mount that separated from the rubber part on each of the four mounts.

Not sure about the rear ones yet, but I was able to jack the engine up just high enough to get the front ones out (and, I hope, to re-install the new ones). I'm still hoping I can get away with NOT having to literally pull the engine....

Here's my crude drawing of the way things go together; there are four such arrangements, two at the front and another two at the rear of the engine--

DSC06705.jpg
 

AxleHub

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Axle, hope you get the picture, words are difficult at times to describe a situation... The actual mounting lugs (L-shaped 1/4" steel plates with a 9mm hole in them) on the frame and the engine are all intact, it was just the metal disc & stud on the insulator/isolator/mount that separated from the rubber part on each of the four mounts.

Not sure about the rear ones yet, but I was able to jack the engine up just high enough to get the front ones out (and, I hope, to re-install the new ones). I'm still hoping I can get away with NOT having to literally pull the engine....

Here's my crude drawing of the way things go together; there are four such arrangements, two at the front and another two at the rear of the engine--

View attachment 558673

The drawing is very helpful Irving.

It will be interesting to hear what your total personal labor hours you'll have when everything is back together.

I still have a hard time imagining with today's accuracy requirements, that the engine could move. . . . Yet still work and not have a drive shaft or components pull apart or lock something up.
 

ray66v

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Walt, isometric drawing is helpful. But, could you do it in orthographic? :D
 
  
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irvingj

irvingj

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Sorry, Ray, my dyslexia prevents me....:laughing: seriuosly, that was one of my favorite classes "back in the day"--mechanical drawing. Loved it. Don't believe kids today get that opportunity, for the most part. Too bad. That drawing above took me about three minutes. (Obvoiusly freehand!!:p)

Axle, I'll keep track-- if I had the parts the first time around I'd have just replaced them then, but I can start from "scratch" once I have the mounts in my hand and keepntrack of how long it takes. And yes, I was worried about the engine shift. Fortunately it only moved about an inch forward, apparently not quite enough for the HST driveshaft to pull out. I think there was enough flexibilty in the rest of the stuff that all of that fared pretty well. I do know that it couldn't have moved much more before the flywheel would have contacted the front frame cross-member. (Maybe...they planned it that way!:confused2:)
 
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Wonder of wonders, the parts arrived this morning! :cool2:

Now all I have to do is decide whether or not I want to get it over & done with and do this on Sunday (supposed to be very nice weather :thumbsup:) or put it off until Monday (rainy :thumbdown:) and go ride a motorcycle and/or take the boat out ....:roll eyes:


For those following this amazingly interesting thread... here's what the new parts look like::p Isn't it neat how the metal parts are still attached to the rubber middle..?

DSC06706.jpgDSC06707.jpg
 

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Hopefully, the new ones will have better bonding than the old ones, but the design is problematic for that application. It's odd that the QR code or the bar code doesn't take you to a source for the part; that tells me that it's probably an in-house only renumber for a commonly available part.
 

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Here's my crude drawing of the way things go together; there are four such arrangements, two at the front and another two at the rear of the engine--

View attachment 558673

Nice sketch :thumbsup:.

Space may preclude this option, but I'd be tempted to weld vertical plates to the lower bracket (only), with a slight dog-leg out as the vertical plate comes past the top bracket. Say, something like 1/8" clearance, but maybe more if that rubber is soft.

^ Normally those added vertical plates won't contact anything, but with steep hills/heavy loads could act as limit stops to horizontal movement. possibly avoiding future shearing....

Rgds, D.
 
  
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OK, all new mounts are in and torqued down. Now, to answer some questions--

I started about 0630, had new mounts all in & tightened by 0930. A fair amount of time was spent simply removing all the exterior skins, wire hold-downs, shields, etc. to be able to get at stuff, however. (And now, I have to put them all back on....)

I was just barely able to jack up the rear of the engine enough to get the new rear mounts in, but it was pretty tricky maneuvering them into place. Kept having disturbing visions of one of my two jacks slipping and having the engine drop...while my hands were in there. I was VERY careful!

The front mounts, using only one bottle jack on the flywheel, weren't nearly as difficult. I don't know if the flywheel is easy to remove or not, but I didn't want to find out. If it were removed, the front mounts would have been much easier to get a wrench onto, but I managed.

One thing I had to remind myself of: each of those mounts' metal plates, in addition to the studs, have a small "button" that needs to align with a corresponding hole in the frame mounting plates. Almost forgot that.

Engine appears to be back into its proper position now; clearance between the flywheel & frame is improved, as is the clearance between the muffler outlet pipe and the frame there.

DSC06736.jpgDSC06737.jpgDSC06747.jpgDSC06751.jpgDSC06757.jpgDSC06755.jpg
 

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Irving,

So that was 3 hours to install - I'd say you must be pretty good at mechanic activity - as a service department would have better facilities and equipment as well as more practice at it. 4 questions:

1. In addition to the 3 hours to install - how much time did you spend prior in diagnosing the cause and removing the old ones ?

2. Did you have to remove "any or many" component items or pull any shaft or linkages ?

3. Were there any tools or lifts you'd have benefited from that you didn't have ? (I assume a true engine pulling would not be desirable for this situation as it would require much more disassembly ????? - ties into question 2 of course).

4. By having gone thru this whole process - do you have any ideas or plans or thoughts that you might do to keep this from happening again in the future - or that could be a preventative type addition ?


I'd say Irving - that with this thread - others may want to save it as an instructive tool for their own needs should this issue come up on their units. I'm rather amazed at the efficiency of your time usage considering the complexity. And it appears that your parts costs was very minimal along with no labor cost. Imagine what a dealer charge would be for the same diagnosis and repair - not to mention time delays - which you had few of.
 
  
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irvingj

irvingj

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Etna, NH
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2007 MF GC2310 TLB
To answer:
1) Diagnosis, once I heard the "ching ching" noise and saw that the flywheel was connecting the front flywheel cover, was about 5 minutes. As soon as I shone a flashlight down at the motor mounts --I had already assumed the engine had shifted-- the cause was obvious. I could immediately see the front two were broken; took a while longer to crawl under, after removing the BH, FEL and MMM, to realize the back two had separated as well.

2) Two red plastic side panels, front grille, hood, and the two gray plastic screened shields directly in front of the driver and below the instrument panel. As mentioned earlier, the flywheel cover as well, plus a few smaller things that got in the way. The extra steps involved in looking at the HST driveshaft were not necessary for replacement of motor mounts (that added a good 1/2 hr or more).

3) Tools-- nope, I had what I needed, and the tractor sits high enough off the ground that it was easy enough for me to get under. My daughter did give me a Father's Day gift early, and I used it a number of times: a cordless (rechargeable) Milwaukee right-angle 3/8" drive ratchet. That was very handy!

4) Plans-- yep -- to occasionally take a look at the front two mounts, which are easy enough to see, just to ensure they're holding up. Also to be more aware of early warning signs that the engine may have shifted (I had a few of those).

Here are some of the "removals":

DSC06715.jpgDSC06714.jpgDSC06713.jpgDSC06716.jpgDSC06723.jpgDSC06719.jpgDSC06717.jpgDSC06720.jpg
 
  
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irvingj

irvingj

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Mike-- before putting the whole thing back together, I got back into the HST driveshaft area. Discovered that there's one bolt to remove, then, with a bit of persuasion, the splined shaft on the fan/HST end will pull off. (Guess that's part of the procedure for replacing a broken fan, too.)
DSC06761.jpgDSC06764.jpg


I wasn't able to pull the whole driveshaft out of the engine connection, but two good things:
1) There's enough of the male splined shaft in the engine coupling that it can be pulled back 2"+ without coming out completely.

DSC06768.jpgDSC06767.jpg

2) (and I should have realized this) there's a u-joint on both ends of that shaft, so I was able to jack up the engine without hurting anything.

At any rate, I blew the rusty dust off the splines, put some white (lithium) spray grease in there, then smeared my chassis lube grease onto the splines. After, I wiped off excess grease. Did this to both ends.

So it's now all back together. :cool2: Now to re-mount the MMM....
 

AxleHub

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irving, the problem with all this maintenance is you'll be too pooped to run it today. :)
 
  
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irvingj

irvingj

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Well, I did the lawn yesterday so that's done. Now, perhaps I can re-mount the BH and FEL and get back to pulling some of the small stumps I was trying to get to before all this happened... 3 weeks ago! :thumbsup:
 

pcwolf

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Yorktown
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Massey Ferguson GC2310
Thanks a lot, Irv, for letting us kibbitz!

-Phil
 

woody49705

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Mar 21, 2008
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southwest ct.
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07' GC2310 TLB
What's crazy is I had the same exact thing happen to my 07'. So there is definitely a recurring problem with these mounts and right around the same amount of hours.
 
  
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irvingj

irvingj

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Really? Perhaps a bad batch of motor mounts. Maybe the bonding process. BTW, the new mounts held up all summer, no issues. Now into snow blowing season.
 

JWR

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Really? Perhaps a bad batch of motor mounts. Maybe the bonding process. BTW, the new mounts held up all summer, no issues. Now into snow blowing season.

Irvingj, what a heck of a sequence ! You get this year's award for persistence. In your shoes I would be very inquisitive about the reason for the failure AND what the AGCO records show for reports of the disease. All MF dealers have access to incident reports and can look up the motor mounts on a GC2310 with ease. You need a friendly, cooperative dealer to do this and they should be willing. I know mine would (and has on other issues.) If the same disease has been widely reported there is probably nothing you can do about it. Nature of the beast. ... BUT, if it is rather rare (which is my guess) then I'd certainly want to now what caused it. Why/how is it happening? I have trouble imagining a tractor that won't stand operation on hilly ground without shearing motor mounts. Was there (potentially) a factory suggested replacement that included lateral motion limiting in the mounts?
 
  
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irvingj

irvingj

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I never bothered to check with MF, and the closest dealer is an hour away. I just wanted the tractor fixed as quickly as I could -- I use it too much!

The only thing that intrigues me is above where woody49705 said he had a similar problem, same model year, same hours.... But hey, it's fixed now.

Got the block heater plugged in now.. we had some more snow squalls come through yesterday so I'll need to scrape the driveway again... and it's 0.7 degrees F outside at the moment....! Wicked cold for this time of year!
 

Little Mac

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Chicagoland
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2007 MF GC2310TLB
Hate to revise an OLD thread, but this issue has just happened to me with my GC2310TLB, my issue is my dealer tells me this item (4261289M1) is no longer available. Was anyone able to source an alternative? I can always try to spec out something through mcmaster car, but I am not sure what the engine weight is or the durometer (hardness) should be.
 

DMW

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Southern Ontario
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MF GC2300
The same mount is/has been used on every GC2300/2400/1700/1723. I highly doubt it is OOP. They may not be able to order, but there is still inventory out there. A search for Canada was pretty quick.
 
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