Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt!

   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt!
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Yes, I've seen that kind of "captured" mount-- and yes, that could have been used here, if there were more space, maybe. Kinda tight as it is.

Mike, thanks for the tip; I'm planning to open up that section on the floor again when I have other stuff apart so I can get some real grease in there.

Axle, hope you get the picture, words are difficult at times to describe a situation... The actual mounting lugs (L-shaped 1/4" steel plates with a 9mm hole in them) on the frame and the engine are all intact, it was just the metal disc & stud on the insulator/isolator/mount that separated from the rubber part on each of the four mounts.

Not sure about the rear ones yet, but I was able to jack the engine up just high enough to get the front ones out (and, I hope, to re-install the new ones). I'm still hoping I can get away with NOT having to literally pull the engine....

Here's my crude drawing of the way things go together; there are four such arrangements, two at the front and another two at the rear of the engine--

DSC06705.jpg
 
   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt! #32  
Axle, hope you get the picture, words are difficult at times to describe a situation... The actual mounting lugs (L-shaped 1/4" steel plates with a 9mm hole in them) on the frame and the engine are all intact, it was just the metal disc & stud on the insulator/isolator/mount that separated from the rubber part on each of the four mounts.

Not sure about the rear ones yet, but I was able to jack the engine up just high enough to get the front ones out (and, I hope, to re-install the new ones). I'm still hoping I can get away with NOT having to literally pull the engine....

Here's my crude drawing of the way things go together; there are four such arrangements, two at the front and another two at the rear of the engine--

View attachment 558673

The drawing is very helpful Irving.

It will be interesting to hear what your total personal labor hours you'll have when everything is back together.

I still have a hard time imagining with today's accuracy requirements, that the engine could move. . . . Yet still work and not have a drive shaft or components pull apart or lock something up.
 
   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt! #33  
Walt, isometric drawing is helpful. But, could you do it in orthographic? :D
 
   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt!
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Sorry, Ray, my dyslexia prevents me....:laughing: seriuosly, that was one of my favorite classes "back in the day"--mechanical drawing. Loved it. Don't believe kids today get that opportunity, for the most part. Too bad. That drawing above took me about three minutes. (Obvoiusly freehand!!:p)

Axle, I'll keep track-- if I had the parts the first time around I'd have just replaced them then, but I can start from "scratch" once I have the mounts in my hand and keepntrack of how long it takes. And yes, I was worried about the engine shift. Fortunately it only moved about an inch forward, apparently not quite enough for the HST driveshaft to pull out. I think there was enough flexibilty in the rest of the stuff that all of that fared pretty well. I do know that it couldn't have moved much more before the flywheel would have contacted the front frame cross-member. (Maybe...they planned it that way!:confused2:)
 
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   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt!
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Wonder of wonders, the parts arrived this morning! :cool2:

Now all I have to do is decide whether or not I want to get it over & done with and do this on Sunday (supposed to be very nice weather :thumbsup:) or put it off until Monday (rainy :thumbdown:) and go ride a motorcycle and/or take the boat out ....:roll eyes:


For those following this amazingly interesting thread... here's what the new parts look like::p Isn't it neat how the metal parts are still attached to the rubber middle..?

DSC06706.jpgDSC06707.jpg
 
   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt! #36  
Hopefully, the new ones will have better bonding than the old ones, but the design is problematic for that application. It's odd that the QR code or the bar code doesn't take you to a source for the part; that tells me that it's probably an in-house only renumber for a commonly available part.
 
   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt! #37  
Here's my crude drawing of the way things go together; there are four such arrangements, two at the front and another two at the rear of the engine--

View attachment 558673

Nice sketch :thumbsup:.

Space may preclude this option, but I'd be tempted to weld vertical plates to the lower bracket (only), with a slight dog-leg out as the vertical plate comes past the top bracket. Say, something like 1/8" clearance, but maybe more if that rubber is soft.

^ Normally those added vertical plates won't contact anything, but with steep hills/heavy loads could act as limit stops to horizontal movement. possibly avoiding future shearing....

Rgds, D.
 
   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt!
  • Thread Starter
#38  
OK, all new mounts are in and torqued down. Now, to answer some questions--

I started about 0630, had new mounts all in & tightened by 0930. A fair amount of time was spent simply removing all the exterior skins, wire hold-downs, shields, etc. to be able to get at stuff, however. (And now, I have to put them all back on....)

I was just barely able to jack up the rear of the engine enough to get the new rear mounts in, but it was pretty tricky maneuvering them into place. Kept having disturbing visions of one of my two jacks slipping and having the engine drop...while my hands were in there. I was VERY careful!

The front mounts, using only one bottle jack on the flywheel, weren't nearly as difficult. I don't know if the flywheel is easy to remove or not, but I didn't want to find out. If it were removed, the front mounts would have been much easier to get a wrench onto, but I managed.

One thing I had to remind myself of: each of those mounts' metal plates, in addition to the studs, have a small "button" that needs to align with a corresponding hole in the frame mounting plates. Almost forgot that.

Engine appears to be back into its proper position now; clearance between the flywheel & frame is improved, as is the clearance between the muffler outlet pipe and the frame there.

DSC06736.jpgDSC06737.jpgDSC06747.jpgDSC06751.jpgDSC06757.jpgDSC06755.jpg
 
   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt! #39  
Irving,

So that was 3 hours to install - I'd say you must be pretty good at mechanic activity - as a service department would have better facilities and equipment as well as more practice at it. 4 questions:

1. In addition to the 3 hours to install - how much time did you spend prior in diagnosing the cause and removing the old ones ?

2. Did you have to remove "any or many" component items or pull any shaft or linkages ?

3. Were there any tools or lifts you'd have benefited from that you didn't have ? (I assume a true engine pulling would not be desirable for this situation as it would require much more disassembly ????? - ties into question 2 of course).

4. By having gone thru this whole process - do you have any ideas or plans or thoughts that you might do to keep this from happening again in the future - or that could be a preventative type addition ?


I'd say Irving - that with this thread - others may want to save it as an instructive tool for their own needs should this issue come up on their units. I'm rather amazed at the efficiency of your time usage considering the complexity. And it appears that your parts costs was very minimal along with no labor cost. Imagine what a dealer charge would be for the same diagnosis and repair - not to mention time delays - which you had few of.
 
   / Horror of horrors! My 2310 is hurt!
  • Thread Starter
#40  
To answer:
1) Diagnosis, once I heard the "ching ching" noise and saw that the flywheel was connecting the front flywheel cover, was about 5 minutes. As soon as I shone a flashlight down at the motor mounts --I had already assumed the engine had shifted-- the cause was obvious. I could immediately see the front two were broken; took a while longer to crawl under, after removing the BH, FEL and MMM, to realize the back two had separated as well.

2) Two red plastic side panels, front grille, hood, and the two gray plastic screened shields directly in front of the driver and below the instrument panel. As mentioned earlier, the flywheel cover as well, plus a few smaller things that got in the way. The extra steps involved in looking at the HST driveshaft were not necessary for replacement of motor mounts (that added a good 1/2 hr or more).

3) Tools-- nope, I had what I needed, and the tractor sits high enough off the ground that it was easy enough for me to get under. My daughter did give me a Father's Day gift early, and I used it a number of times: a cordless (rechargeable) Milwaukee right-angle 3/8" drive ratchet. That was very handy!

4) Plans-- yep -- to occasionally take a look at the front two mounts, which are easy enough to see, just to ensure they're holding up. Also to be more aware of early warning signs that the engine may have shifted (I had a few of those).

Here are some of the "removals":

DSC06715.jpgDSC06714.jpgDSC06713.jpgDSC06716.jpgDSC06723.jpgDSC06719.jpgDSC06717.jpgDSC06720.jpg
 
 
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