How does this Massey 1250 sound? Newbie buyer

[emptyjay]

Hey guys, I'm considering a purchase of a 1998 Massey 1250 with a 1246 loader. The asking price is $10,500.

This will be my third tractor but my first 4x4. I'm not especially mechanically inclined (yet) but am ready to learn. I had a bad experience buying my last tractor, a Ford 4600, which started having major engine problems immediately after I purchased it. I don't want to repeat that experience again.

The seller sent me the video of the tractor operating in the link below. I was hoping that some of the knowledgeable folks on here could watch the video and let me know if they spot any major issues or red flags before I try to tie up the deal.

Massey 1250 Video

Really appreciate the great resources that this forum provides. Thanks in advance.

 

[fuchifarm]

Hey guys, I'm considering a purchase of a 1998 Massey 1250 with a 1246 loader. The asking price is $10,500.

This will be my third tractor but my first 4x4. I'm not especially mechanically inclined (yet) but am ready to learn. I had a bad experience buying my last tractor, a Ford 4600, which started having major engine problems immediately after I purchased it. I don't want to repeat that experience again.

The seller sent me the video of the tractor operating in the link below. I was hoping that some of the knowledgeable folks on here could watch the video and let me know if they spot any major issues or red flags before I try to tie up the deal.

Massey 1250 Video

Really appreciate the great resources that this forum provides. Thanks in advance.

I would avoid the 1240/50/60 line unless you are using it for very light work. I have a 1240 that has been nothing but trouble and a pain to work on. They are very easy to overheat if you are mowing or in dusty environment. The radiator screen clogs very quickly. If the temp gauge climbs above normal at all you need to unload the engine and let it cool and then clean the screen. Also the radiator screen can't be removed with the loader on the tractor. You can bend it and get it out but you will end up damaging the screen. Best method is pulling the pins on the mount and use the hydraulics to rotate the frame up so the frame arm clears the top of the hood at the radiator. There should be enough slack in the lines to do so. Also the loader is very weak and prone to failure on the frame arms. You need to check the loader mount bolts before each days use as the two m12 bolts that go into the engine side of the frame are prone to backing out even when properly torqued. If those bolts get loose then all the stress gets placed on the plate holding the transmission to the engine block. Also there is nothing protecting the hydraulic lines for the loader under the tractor. You can see them hanging down in the video. Parts are getting very expensive and some are hard to find. Clutch kit is $800 now and splitting the tractor is a pain. The side covers use a plastic knob with metal clip to hold them secure. They plastic breaks on them after a few years of sun exposure. Many end up with bungee cords holding them on. New flip up style seat at tractorsupply is $130. The pto is electricly engaged. There is a single wire that runs under the tractor for it. If the pto stops at any point almost 100% it will be something snagged the wire. Also the safety interlocks for in gear are a couple thin wires in light plastic shield tube that aren't very well protected. Basically if you are mowing over anything woody over 12" tall be prepared to fix stuff. A quick attach for the loader will run you $1k. If you use clamp on forks / spear the loader will struggle to lift a 4x5 hay bale. If you get one of the universal front loader spears that has the frame with brackets that are bolted on with u bolts then it will lift it but switching back and forth bucket to spear is not a quick task.

$10k is very high in my opinion especially with the condition it is in.

The pros to the tractor are its very stable for its size. Never felt uneasy on it. Also its a strong little tractor. With loaded tires and 4wd I can pull a 6ft box with scarifiers down 1 notch and fill the box without getting lugged down in 3rd range and 1st gear. (sandy loam soil) Also nice is the 4 x 4 gear box. I never use creep gears. Most work is done in 3rd range. 4th is for travel only 2nd is for precision loader work and ground engaging. 3rd and 1st is fine for filling the bucket with dirt. 3rd and 3rd/4th for finish mower. The shuttle shift forward / reverse is nice as well as you have all speeds available both in forward and reverse.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

I had a bad experience buying my last tractor, a Ford 4600, which started having major engine problems immediately after I purchased it. I don't want to repeat that experience again.

What was wrong with your Ford? Very surprised to hear this as Fords are some of the best tractors out there.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

$10k is very high in my opinion especially with the condition it is in.

Yeah I completely agree. The seller is looking for a sucker. I would pass on it.