How Hot Is Too Hot?

[Looking4new]

Anti freeze is also anti boil. 50/50 mix will raise your boiling point to about 240*F.

 

[Raw Dodge]

Id say your temps are the absolute max Id run it at...your on the edge of causing damage..235 and above are when the heads crack at the valve seats,and the piston thrust side starts to wear thru the oil film and you run the risk of hot sticking a piston skirt,which always results in excess blowby after it cools and frees up,and runs again...Id try to find out why its getting so hot,whether its the radiator plugged internally or the temp guage is off by a few degrees.Id run less coolant ,more water,(IF your climate will allow)and a bottle of redline water wetter.....these engines go from long lasting bulletproof to forever damaged,scrap iron in just a few degrees of temp...

 

[j t huskins]

Where does it run when under light load? Are you running it revved up? Has the fuel delivery been messed with.

180/190 light load. Working PTO implements at about 1/2 throttle and not lugging.And yes on the injection pump. I am going to order 2 shims to adjust timing. Each shim will ****** 1.5 deg. Try one at a time and test run for results. I have been through the entire tractor during the restore and all of the cooling system is clean and working properly so advanced timing is the only reason that I can think of to cause heating under a hard load. When I tore the engine down I did not know at that time that the gasket under the injector pump was the timing adjustment so I did not make a note of the thickness.

 

[j t huskins]

B7100HST 95 I had the radiator cap acted like thermostat...to hot temp and it would whistle.

I replaced the old cap with a new Kubota cap and it has not whistled . The old cap would not seal and let coolant run out the overflow constantly.

 

[kuboman]

180/190 light load. Working PTO implements at about 1/2 throttle and not lugging.And yes on the injection pump. I am going to order 2 shims to adjust timing. Each shim will ****** 1.5 deg. Try one at a time and test run for results. I have been through the entire tractor during the restore and all of the cooling system is clean and working properly so advanced timing is the only reason that I can think of to cause heating under a hard load. When I tore the engine down I did not know at that time that the gasket under the injector pump was the timing adjustment so I did not make a note of the thickness.

Not knowing if the IP is out of adjustment I will assume it is ok. From what you have described indicates to me is how you are operating it. These engines rely solely on convection threw the radiator with the fan to move the air. I bet if you revved it up your temp under light load will decrease. 190 seems to high for an engine without a thermostat. Try full speed and see what happens.

 

[megaboz]

There is a certain optimum speed an engine should be run at for proper cooling efficiency. Every engine is different. With a mechanical fan this is critical.

As someone else asked are u sure the radiator is flowing coolant and properly, not just the air flow? Kinked lines?

As for other items that can aid in cooling is running good fluids. While the manufacturers oil is adequate there are much better oils and other fluids out there. However I have never been convinced on coolant additives, but that doesn't mean that there couldn't be merit to them.

You should probably check your exhaust temps at the manafold. If it is too hot there then you may have a fuel issue.

Just some random thoughts that pop into my head.