How to chain up the tractor?

[bill18163]

I bought my first flat bed trailer after reading many posts on this board. I think I have everything thought out except for one thing that I am curious about. I read the post from the person that had new straps break because of the trailer flexing on bumps in the road. Obviously there is a lot of dynamic load on a strap or chain when a trailer flexes with a load on it. It makes me ask a question of where to fasten my chains on the tractor. That dynamic loading is still there on those chains even though they may not break like a strap. Has anyone ever had something bent on their tractor because of this "loading"? Where are the best points on a tractor to attach the chains so that any dynamic loading will not hurt the machine? Or am I worrying about this too much?

 

[gordon21]

Use the axles. Do NOT use attach points such as the 3PT arms, implements attached to the tractor , loader arms, steps, weight brackets, etc

Use four chains and four chain ratchet binders with grade 70 chain. The difference between cheap chain and grade 70 is probably less than $20 for a typical tractor & trailer combo hauling a compact tractor.

Always loop your chain down through the stake pocket and then back up to hang vertically on the stake pocket. This way, if the chain ever loosened a little bit, gravity will keep it in place and your load safe. If not, you run the chance of the chain completely coming loose.

 

[6or7dazeaweek]

I paid particular attention to how the dealer tied down my tractor when it was delivered.

They used a clevis, ran it thru the chain and inserted the clevis into an empty bolt hole in the frame...then used a ratchet tightener on the chain.

I don't know if this is the best way of doing it but that's the way the dealer did it.

By the way, I purchased some pretty hefty axle straps at tsc PRIOR to delivery of my machine. I'm not sure which approach I'll use when I transport it....certainly don't like the idea of straps stretching or breaking.

Jon

 

[MarkStewart]

I can't see any of the commercial sized straps breaking unless they are allowed to come in contact with a part of the machine that would cut or fray the material of the strap.

Still I'm thinking the DOT wants chain and binders on machinery. That's what I use when I'm hauling equiptment. But for a compact tractor I think the straps would be adequate if routed , and protected from freying, cutting etc.

Anyways it would be best to check the regulations on the DOT site or ask a DOT cop.

 

[AlanB]

I just changed around the way we secure our 1925 (Predecessor to a TC 33 or so)

I leave two clevis's hanging in the front frame corners, under the radiator, and chain too them for the front. One chain to each corner.

In the back I used to run one chain through the draw bar, side to side and back a bit on the trailer. (Yes, I know the rules)

Found and picked up some more clevis's (or would that be Clev I) and have an open hole on each lower three point arm. I install and remove the clevis there. and tie back to the trailer from there.

I know folks say tie to the axle etc. not the three point, but come on, that thing is held on with 7/8" pins, if they give up, I think my 3/8" chain would have long before given up the ghost.

I also went in on my trailer and welded in lengths of chain along the tie down rails. This lets me reach down with my load binder (I just swithced over to ratcheting instead of cam over for the wife) and hook directly there, no muss, no fuss.

 

[gordon21]

If you will only haul one tractor on the same trailer all the time, then you can customize with clevis, welded brackets and custom length chains like AlanB suggests. You could get your loading and tie down process to just under 5 minutes. It would sorta be like loading a boat with custom tie downs all mounted in just the right places and with just the right length straps.

If you do use the web straps, slip a 2' piece of fire hose or old radiator hose over the web strap whever it touchs metal. A metal edge does not have to be sharp to fray web straps.

Don't forget to paint the trailer in your tractors colors for a matching rig.

 

[Willl]

Those w/ hoes, do you let 'em bounce on the lock pin or lower 'em to the trailer deck ?

If you lower it to the deck, do you strap/chain it?

 

[gordon21]

I lock the boom with the pin to prevent left to right movement, but I do drop the bucket to the deck against the front rails and chain it down also. This is in addition to the four chains at each corner.

 

[George2615]

gordon21's picture drawing #2 is correct but if you have a long enough chain why not continue through the stake pocket and hook the chain back onto itself. The tie down method I use is to go through the stake pocket / or D-ring and back up with one end. The other end of the chain goes over the tractor front frame then I connect the two chain ends with a ratchet binder. Same scenario on back, 1 chain and binder at each corner of tractor plus any implements

 

[Highbeam]

"The tie down method I use is to go through the stake pocket / or D-ring and back up with one end. The other end of the chain goes over the tractor front frame then I connect the two chain ends with a ratchet binder."

When you take up the slack in the chain does the chain not need to be able to slide along the stake pocket and tractor? With this method the chain tension only needs to be half since you are doubling your pull. I suppose we all tighten to 'good-n-tite'.

I do like Gordon21 with the stake pockets. So far they have not been deformed by the tension. I was at first worried that I would need to weld big old d-rings to the trailer frame but was assured that the stake pockets are quite strong. So far so good.