How to Cheaply Add Power Angle to your Snowplow

   / How to Cheaply Add Power Angle to your Snowplow #1  

quadridermx

New member
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Messages
21
Location
Lambertville, MI
Tractor
Kubota L2500
Hello all. I figured I'd post this for any future readers who are looking for an inexpensive way to get the power angle working on a snowplow while still keeping the curl function. This setup will add a third function to your tractor's hydraulics that can independently control two single-acting cylinders or one double-acting cylinder. I needed to do it as cheap as possible, and only have about $200 total into this setup.

This is a cheaper alternative to adding a joystick type valve (which requires tying it into the supply/return lines of your hydraulics) to control the power angle of a snow plow. This alternative uses your current joystick loader valve to control both curl/dump and angle left/right. It uses a "selector valve" to divert fluid from your double acting curl cylinder circuits and uses it for the two single-acting cylinders that control the angle of your plow.

When the 2-position selector valve is in position 1, you can control the curl movement of your snow plow, just like you would scoop up and dump your bucket. When the selector valve is in it's other position, position 2, the curl angle is locked in place and you can now control the left/right angle of your plow. If you need to set the curl angle again, simply bump the selector valve back to position 1 and make any needed adjustments. Your left/right angle then stays locked in place as well.

Here's how to do it!

1) Buy a 6-way (2 inputs, 4 outputs) selector valve such as this one: 1/2" NPT 20 GPM DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE
This selector valve basically takes the 2 inputs and passes them straight through to two outputs at a time. You have 2 sets of 2 outputs. It does block off, or "lock in" the 2 outputs that aren't selected.

2) Disconnect the 2 bucket curl hoses at the loader valve.

3) Buy two short hoses to connect those 2 loader valve outputs to the 2 inputs of the selector valve. Your selector valve now has hydraulic power (still controlled by your loader valve) to pass onto it's outputs.

4) Take the two disconnected hoses going to the bucket curl cylinders and connect them to the first set of outputs on the selector valve. At this point, when the selector valve is in position 1, your bucket curl cylinders are working as normal. The selector valve just acts as a pass-through, and is essentially not even there. Your loader joystick controls the curl/dump angle of your plow or bucket like normal in this first position of the selector valve.

5) You have two remaining outputs from the selector valve. Run a line from one of these outputs to one of your single acting angle cylinders on your snow plow. Run a line from the remaining selector valve output to the second single-acting cylinder that angles your snow plow.

Now when you put the selector valve in position '2', it locks your bucket curl cylinders in place (to keep the curl angle of your plow wherever you set it) and now your left/right motion on the loader joystick controls your plow left/right angle. Your up/down motion of the loader joystick always controls the up/down movement of your loader arms with this setup.

6) Find a convenient place to mount the selector valve that is within arm's reach while you're operating your tractor.


This setup will NOT work with a loader valve that ONLY has regenerative bucket dump. You need to have power dump in order to move your curl cylinder lines one at a time. If your bucket only has regenerative dump, but power up/down for your loader arms, you could take the same concept and use your loader arm circuits instead of your curl circuits. In that case, you would switch between being able to lift your loader arms up/down and being able to control the angle of the snow plow.

I found a lot of posts addressing the concepts and ideas, but couldn't find anything where someone gave a specific example of what selector valve to buy and how to plumb everything. Hope this helps someone out there!
 
   / How to Cheaply Add Power Angle to your Snowplow #2  
I sure thought I had mentioned all the possibilities of using the manual valve and the diverter valve in other post.

For instance the 6 port diverter valve from Baileynet.com cost about $110, and add a switch for the solenoids, and it will do the same thing you did.

However, whatever suits your purpose.

Your are right about the regen thing.
 
   / How to Cheaply Add Power Angle to your Snowplow
  • Thread Starter
#3  
You were definitely one of the biggest helps to getting my system working! I read all of your posts. I must have missed a post where it was all condensed into one. I mainly picked up a little here and a little there. Thanks for all your help.

The setup I put together with the manual valve instead of a switched solenoid system was cheaper by quite a bit, at least according to my circumstance. Though I do see on the valve that I ordered that there is a spot on the end of the shaft, with pre-drilled and tapped holes around it, to place a solenoid. Might be a future upgrade for me!
 
   / How to Cheaply Add Power Angle to your Snowplow #4  
Thanks to ALL! I came here tonight for this exact information. I'm hoping to buy a plow tomorrow for my FEL and was wondering how to run the angle. I like it!
 
   / How to Cheaply Add Power Angle to your Snowplow #5  
If you want it done cheaply, put a garage door spring on it to pull it to the right. Then hook a rope or cable to it from the rear 3 pt links via a pulley. Use the 3 pt height to set the angle. Done.
 
   / How to Cheaply Add Power Angle to your Snowplow
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I thought about that too. I actually have a spare 4-wheeler winch laying around. I had the means to keep it hydraulic though. The garage spring is a good idea
 
 
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