How to protect a bearing from the elements

[ArlyA]

We have pods (you might call tracks) on a work ATV with shielded bearings from a company called Cosmo. Just a few years ago they called themselves Camoplast. These pods have many bearings in each unit, so to keep there cost low, they used less costly shielded ones in its idlers. In there 3rd year of use with us, we started loosing these bearings and as you might guess, they are not grease-able. We still have them today and replace bearings in them on a regular bases. By there 5th year with us, we had exceeded the original cost of these fine pods in repairs due to these poorly sealed bearings...... Saving $$ on seals is not a good investment in my amateur book of mechanics.

 

[Egon]

This idler pulley is on a diesel engine, so I doubt a wood bearing would last even one day.

I had the impression a hand cranked tarp was the issue.
Be aware that wooden bearings have been used for many years in rotating equipment.

[video]http://www.plantservices.com/articles/2005/469/[/video]

 

[Egon]

This idler pulley is on a diesel engine, so I doubt a wood bearing would last even one day.

I had the impression a hand cranked tarp was the issue.
Be aware that wooden bearings have been used for many years in rotating equipment.

 

[2458n]

As you know salt kills the bearings and if it is hand cranked it must be slow speed. Wood bearing with a little grease might solve the problem. As I type this I can see my 1996 Ford setting in the driveway with a rusted out differential cover. Have replaced engine oil and trans pan. Note to self never buy a city salt truck.

 

[dieselscout80]

I had the impression a hand cranked tarp was the issue.
Be aware that wooden bearings have been used for many years in rotating equipment.

I fully agree and I'm thinking of using a wood bearing on another project to fix my cultipacker.

 

[square1]

No wonder we were confused.:confused2:

Yeah! I mean Nope!

 

[mcfarmall]

Correction/update on my earlier reply. I previously stated that the maximum rpm on a sealed bearing was "3500 rpm or thereabouts." According to the article below, the correct statement should have been that the rubber contact seal sliding speed should not exceed 8 to 10 meters per second. Therefore, the maximum rpm on a sealed bearing will change according to the diameter of the inner race. Smaller bearings can run faster, larger bearings could run slower.

Lowdown on sealed-bearing speed limits | Mission of seals and shields for common rolling-element bearings is prevent grease leakage and protect bearing rolling elements | Machine Design

On a side note, my home built lawn roller has greasable hard maple bearings and has sat outdoors for around 20 years with no detectable wear. Not saying wood bearings are the best choice for every application but they do have a noteable place in the lineup.

 

[daugen]

and a shot of 'Fluid Film' every month or so when idle will go a long way...

I just started using that on equipment that sits under tarps and it's pretty waxy. Double edged sword, waxier it is, better it protects, and
also usually the more dirt it attracts.

Maybe I was a train engineer in another life but I continue to do well with an oil can oiling bearings without zerks, and
keeping those with zerks well lubed with moly lube. You just have to keep at it.
What I didn't know was whether fluid film should get into the bearings, or just sit on top keeping corrosion away, which it surely
looks like it does way better than WD40, which most of us go through a lot of.

I'm constantly spraying WD or a similar CRC lube product on three point hitch parts, helps to flush the dirt out after I've used air.
And certainly after I've powerwashed i always relube. And for sure, don't point the pressure washer directly at the bearing, I wrecked the front bearings on one
wheel on my Gravely 8199G when a pin hole in the round bearing cover let pressurized water in while cleaning the rims.

Nothing better than a tub of grease and some bearings to pack.

While sitting outside, seems to me any form of cover is better than none. Keep the sun and rain off, dirt is another issue.

 

[daugen]

btw, I had concerns over using Kroil near bearings too. Kroil is very cool in that it penetrates very well, but also lubricates well, some additive likely.
But what about those sealed bearings like in the steering arms, no user serviceable parts or maintenance..., or sealed universal joints,
but what if the Kroil is squirted on top of the rubber (?) gasketing material
and works its way into the bearings. Or if you poke the straw "under the cover".
Now if the bearings had dried out, that would be wonderful. But if they hadn't, maybe penetrating oil isn't the best thing to get in there.

Maybe on slow speed bearings it really doesn't matter.

Any thoughts on lubricating sealed bearings? Could Arty do that on his ATV bearings? Is that a stupid idea? If whatever you use "inside" also does well on the outside, that's perfect.

Taking that Gravely wheel off and looking at an awful mess of rusting bearings and races made me a real believer in bearing maintenance.

I wonder if Bearing Buddy makes a broad line of bearing protectors.
I'd personally like a visual indicator of lubricant level and that usually means an oil bath or?

 

[/pine]

I fully agree and I'm thinking of using a wood bearing on another project to fix my cultipacker.

check out Lignum vitae...it has been used for bearings for centuries...

...the bearings in the original 1920s turbines of the Conowingo hydroelectric plant on the lower Susquehanna River were made from lignum vitae. The shaft bearings on the horizontal turbines at the Pointe du Bois generating station in Manitoba are made from lignum vitae. Other hydroelectric plant turbine bearings, many of them still in service, were fabricated with lignum vitae and are too numerous to list here.

Lignum vitae - Wikipedia