Snow Attachments How to steer a tractor with R4's on snow, Non metallic "chains"

[mike69440]

I snow plow with an L39 with an 8' Fisher commercial plow on the loader.
The tractor with ballast and plow and other ballast weighs about 8,300 lbs. I have double HD chains on the rear, so mostly I plow in 2WD.
The tractor for it's weight is underpowered, even with the fuel turned up a bit, so I'm not looking for pushing traction. It will push a huge amount of snow.
My problem is steering, especially with the plow at full angel, as the wheelbase is short, and the R4's have little grip.

I wonder if these would work on the front for steering without beating up the front axle?

Amazon.com: Anti Snow Chains of Car ,SUV Chain Tire Emergency Thickening Anti--Skid Chain Car Snow -Set of 6-Hop&Fly: Car Electronics

vs. this

Amazon.com: ALEKO S9CH-5 Passenger Car Snow Chain, 9mm: Patio, Lawn & Garden

Anyone have experience with these or have any good ideas?

Thanks

 

[Rustyiron]

I had been running the "trygg" type ice chains on the front for steering. Just a month ago I put in the screw in type studs and am very impressed. This place Windy Ridge Corporation Since 1985 in Tamworth NH is where I got them, I used 2 studs in each "bar" or 4 across the pair of "bar's". I put the #6 studs on the front & #5"s on the rear. They screw in with a $8 tool that fit's in your drill or driver and are removable. The 5's are $1 ant the 6- $1.25. They have a wide selection of chains also but that's a pretty small tire on the front. They are mainly a logging based supplier but have a great store.
They do have those ice chains for ATV's that may fit your fronts but I would question if they were sturdy enough for your little brute.

 

[CADplans]

I think your blade is too wide for the size of front tire.
Torch 2 feet off the blade, the steering issue will go away.

Big attachments are not always the answer.,,
heck, I plowed for decades with my IH584 and a 6 foot blade,,
only recently did I get a 7 foot.,, If we ever got over 20", I would go back to the 6 foot.
Sure, I could move an 8,, maybe even 10 foot blade,, but, I could not steer it.

 

[RNeumann]

Your blade is a little wide. With that I'd suggest a nice set of chains. Fronts are under $150 for a set. Cheating out is only going to cause you to get pushed around more. Running front chains on snow isn't going to trash the front axle. Even with chains you aren't putting much load on it before you spin tires.....it isn't a concern.
Mahindra 1538 snow blade/plow setup - YouTube

This video has some info that doesn't apply to this discussion but you can see the chains on the setup and it works very well.

 

[CADplans]

Your blade is a little wide. With that I'd suggest a nice set of chains.

AND, I just noticed, beyond the backhoe,, there are wheel weights on the back.

Might as well add wheel weights on the front,, too,,,

 

[k0ua]

Don't forget to use your split brakes. They are essential to steering on ice and snow. They can often get you straightened out. Keep your steering wheel nearly straight, and make gross steering changes with your brakes

 

[Thomas]

Blade that wide pushing even w/wet heavy snow might be better off taking less of cut w/blade plowing.

 

[boggen]

Don't forget to use your split brakes. They are essential to steering on ice and snow. They can often get you straightened out. Keep your steering wheel nearly straight, and make gross steering changes with your brakes

+1 on split brakes.

if i am doing any sort of dirt work or grading with FEL, or even snow moving, it is automatic split break steering. and barely rely on actual front tires. simply not enough weight on front tires to hold them down and the weight that would of been on front tires, is placed out on the FEL. ya i could monkey around and trying my best going really super slow "granny speed with a walker" to keep FEL just off the ground and weight on front tires. but "meh", wam bam, thank you mam. and be done with it with split breaks.

with above said. 2WD TLB ford i have. with industrial on the rear. are slip and slide mud and snow. just to wide, and float across the mud/snow. vs sinking in and grabbing a bite of traction.

i do not have chains myself. wish i had them. i get on a couple hills. and attempt to turn to push / dump snow and i just begin sliding down hill. and need to use backhoe to straight myself back out. even with steering brakes.
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some links...
tractor tire chains for farm tractors
Tractor Tire Chains – Tire Chains by TireChainsRequired.com
Tractors & Special Use | Quality Chain Corp
Tractor Tire Chains | eBay


some folks have taken a router, and put groves within the "tread" of the tire. to get extra bite.

different chain types for different conditions / uses. the issues that i remember reading about...
chains that fall down in between the tread of tractor tire. are useless. the chain never actually stays at the surface of the tire.
--other words some sort of V or X, or or like chains across tire, to help hold chain up and out of the treads.

a chain that lets snow push through itself, vs letting snow build up within the chain. ((chain needs to let snow through))
--if snow just building up and sliding under chain, might as well be a sled.

need something with enough contact spots with physical ground, to bite through snow and grab hold of tops of frozen gravel. or simple make contact with asphalt / concrete road.
--spikes / nobs poking out going to eat up a asphalt road / concrete road. and put marks all over. and act like a wire metal grinding wheel.

chain + tire needs to allow snow to fall into and between treads of tire. so it can be in "shoveled" for lack of better word to other side of tire.
--swap rear tires around. so tread pattern is going different direction. (folks have done this) and instead of a V pattern tread pushing mud/snow out to the sides. when going forward, it attempts to compact the snow into the center width of the tire.

lower pressure in tires. max pressure in tires = less traction generally. run 12 to 14psi pending on tractor. and if heavy work, i will raise air pressure accordingly in tires. raising pressure in tires might have a different effect. and reducing amount of tire / chain actually floating on top of the snow.

what makes sense to you for type of chain pattern / setup? and how do you want the chain to react / roll or twist over face of tire tread. as you roll over the chain wrapped around the tire.

when looking at your tire marks and skid / sliding marks in the snow. were is the snow ending up? behind you, on side of tire, or directly below the wheel and just getting compacted.

are your current chains simply not taking an aggressive enough bite into the snow? and now allowing tires to sink down. more like R1 / AG tires would allow?

 

[BAP]

Why are you running it in 2wd? Run it in 4wd and the front wheels will help it steer better.

 

[Egon]

I'd suggest studding the front tire's. Second would be a set of chains. Perhaps two link ladder light chains. Studded or chained four wheel drive will really help pull in direction the front tire's are pointed. You may be surprised at the difference the extra front traction will make.

On the two examples given the diamond pattern may ride rough. Durability of the other type may be questioned?? The smaller front tire's, turning a little faster, will do a lot of pulling.