Hub to axle seal job complete on a 1533, Photos

   #1  

MrSteve

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EDIT... Photos that are missing are on page 8, posted 3-31-2021


I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

21835hubsealjob1.JPG


21835hubsealjob2.JPG


21835hubsealjob3.JPG


21835hubsealjob4.JPG


21835hubsealjob5.JPG


21835hubsealjob6.JPG


21835hubsealjob7.JPG


21835hubsealjob8.JPG


21835hubsealjob9.JPG


Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".
21835hubsealjob10.JPG
 
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   #2  

CDsdad

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Massey Ferguson 1533
Thanks for all the info MrSteve. Did the seal fail all of a sudden, a small leak that became worse, or did you just notice it leaking one day? And how many hours do you have on your tractor?

You showed evertyhing very well. I'd probably even try it on mine. After I printed what you did, though. Thanks.
 
  
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#3  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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Thanks for all the info MrSteve. Did the seal fail all of a sudden, a small leak that became worse, or did you just notice it leaking one day? And how many hours do you have on your tractor?

You showed evertyhing very well. I'd probably even try it on mine. After I printed what you did, though. Thanks.

Yes I would have to say "all of a sudden". I was cutting grass and seen a "fluid blow out" on my right side tire, lucky I was cutting grass, because I was looking down in that area following my cut line. I was hoping it was a pressure blow out, as in, pressure built up by heat (because the front axle has no vent, I believe). Check and filled and all seemed fine, but as soon as the seal got warm it started leaking again. The leak was like a drip every 3 seconds or so, yes a small leak, but a leak is a leak.

The leak started at about 300hrs.

The job isn't that hard when you "find" the info to do it, if like me you never have done this type of job. It took about 2hrs, 1 1/2 hours for the job and the 1/2hr was the time finding the tools I needed and clean up after. If I have to do it again, I think I could get it done in no more then 1hr start to clean up.

NOTE TO ADD TO MY 1ST POST ABOVE...One thing I didn't say about the seal above and I hope it is noticed in this post... The seal is a 2 piece design. When dropping the hub, the one piece will stay on the axle, you must "slowly" work that seal off because it is a tight fit over a polished machined surface.

Parts cost from my dealer were, $28 for the seal and $10 for the bottom cap seal.

Here is the thread where I was asking for help for the repair. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...28574-swivel-housing-seal-leaking-1533-a.html
 
   #4  

akajun

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While Im sorry your tractor started this, the timing is good. I just noticed that my 1428 started leaking in the same place yesterday. FYI My tractor is 4 years old and has only 200 hrs on it. It sat up for about 2 years and I think that the seal may have hardened in that time. Your tractor and mine's housing looks similar so It doesnt look to be to hard of a job.
 
  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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I'm happy the timing was good... I try my best to help everyone out the best I can and this thread looks as if it has helped someone.

Not a bad job at all... My dealer wanted $150 to do the job.

if you need anything, make sure you make a post.
 
   #6  

stinkieb

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Mines doing the same thing on the same side. I put more fluid in and no leaks yet, but we'll see what happens.....

Thanks for the post!
 
   #7  

rtdiggr

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Thanks for the post MrSteve i have a 1433 and the dealer did the seals once around the 300hrs mark under warr. the warr is now up and i will have do my seals both sides. The leaks aren't to bad yet. but i will be keeping an eye on them.

Shane
 
   #8  

WilliamBos

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Thanks for the post MrSteve i have a 1433 and the dealer did the seals once around the 300hrs mark under warr. the warr is now up and i will have do my seals both sides. The leaks aren't to bad yet. but i will be keeping an eye on them.

Shane

I am assuming your warranty ran out on time, not hours?? If this happens to us @ 300 hours, that could be this time next year.
 
  
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#9  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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Yes the warranty ran out, my tractor was bought when there was only a 2 year. If I understand correctly there is now a 3 year?

rtdiggr.. Happy it could help you out.

stinkieb... Not worth it, change her out, you could leek to nothing and not know it and do $1,000s in damage.
 
   #10  

jjunkin

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Thanks for clear instructions. I found the job fairly easy to do. Thanks again.....
 
   #12  

Ray2310

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Thanks, I will be performing the same repair to my 2310 shortly. Just waiting for the seals to get here,

Ray
 

mpetrie

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MrSteve this is great information thank you. My 1533 has a bad seal on the left side. I was wondering if you had any difficulty getting the tie rod end off? Mine is on there and I tried pounding it off but I don't want to damage it.
 
  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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MrSteve this is great information thank you. My 1533 has a bad seal on the left side. I was wondering if you had any difficulty getting the tie rod end off? Mine is on there and I tried pounding it off but I don't want to damage it.


Happy I could help... No, no problem getting the link off. A bit of a trick so not to damage the tie-rod (this is what I do/did), hit the knuckle with a hammer, not the tie-rod end its self, the shock of hitting the knuckle oblongs the hole (for a split second then goes back to normal) to the point that it will release the tie-rod.

(look at the 1st page and the photo where it says to remove the tie-rod, hit right at the point where the red line is touching the knuckle)

Or use one of these... (hope the pic shows)
TierodRemovalTool.jpg
 
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mpetrie

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Thanks again Steve I just wasn't agressive enoung. All set now.
 

jockum

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Thank you also, my seal started leaking at 100 hours on my 2010 1533, was fixed under warranty, but I will save this for future if needed!
 
   #20  

schoolsout

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450 hours on our 2005 and the seal has let loose...will probably replace both sides, but not sure we can do it. Thanks for the info and pics, though. I may grow a set and try it :)
 
  
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#22  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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I'm here ;) . Hard to say how hard it is, but from a scale from 1 to 10, 10 being the hardest, I would honestly say its a 5 when you have the info given to you like I did here (not saying I gave perfect direction, but I'm sure it helps) or at least have a service manual.
 
   #23  

schoolsout

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ordered 2 of each part and plan on doing the other side while we're at it. Have a buddy coming to do work once parts come in. Hope this is all we need.

Did y'all just stick to the one side that was leaking or go ahead and do both?
 
   #24  

schoolsout

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as an aside, the local MF Dealer quoted about $600 to do one side...no thanks, pal.
 
   #25  

Mike476

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If you don't mind my asking what did it set you back for parts? Probably less than 60% of your quote.
 
   #26  

schoolsout

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If you don't mind my asking what did it set you back for parts? Probably less than 60% of your quote.

Seals were about $45-46 each and the plug/caps were about $12-13 each.
 
  
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#27  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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ordered 2 of each part and plan on doing the other side while we're at it. Have a buddy coming to do work once parts come in. Hope this is all we need.

Did y'all just stick to the one side that was leaking or go ahead and do both?

I only did the one side.

as an aside, the local MF Dealer quoted about $600 to do one side...no thanks, pal.

Nutty prices for such a thing isn't it, you will see why I say that after you do the job. You saved big bucks and now you will know your tractor a bit better to boot.
 
   #28  

Mike476

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Insane, not against someone making a dollar but you have to keep it reasonable if you want the business.
 
   #29  

WayneJessie

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Does anyone know if the 1600 series has issues with the seals leaking on them?
 

schoolsout

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Can't locate my owner's manual at the moment, but I think the front axle capacity for fluid is 1.75 gallons. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
 

schoolsout

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Got the seal replaced.

Forgot tires are loaded....that tiny little front wheel weighs a good bit so putting it back on caused a bit of a headache (out at the farm with minimal tools), but the biggest headache came when trying to pop the snap ring off that apparently holds the hub on. Got it undone and with it, came the hub. Luckily, buddy's head was pretty much out of the way when it fell...knicked him right above the eye, though, so he has a nice bump on it today. He said it didn't think that was all that was holding it on, but in retrospect, most of the pressure/weight goes the other way on the hub.

Lessons learned!

Thanks for all the help, too.
 

rarkward

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New member (rarkward). MF 1010 Transmission problem (Hydro). While mowing last year, tractor stopped pulling. Had to toy with foot petel just to get tractor back to shed. Changed all three hyd filters and found low pressure filter insert broken (inside). No debris/fines in oil during trans drainage. Had tractor in shop and repairman could not find a problem as tractor ran fine while there. Ran fine all summer but failed to perform during cold winter months. During past winter, it moved approx. 20 feet, then failed to respond (in either low or high range). Have not had chance to check it out this spring/summer. Wondering if filters and/or type oil has anything to do with problem, or, has something gone bad in trans? Used universal transmission oil during oil change. Would like to tear down and repair myself providing parts are still available and there are some schematics available for the repairs. Note: Read some of your blogs regarding front wheel hub problems with your particular models. Had a similar problem with hub on my 1010. While moving about, hub broke and seperated from mount. Made repairs and used 90 weight gear oil instead. Appears to be working fine and still lubricated during occasional checks, however, I do voluntarily add new 90 wgt lube to maintain fill. Appears, when using recommended oil, seals break allowing oil to escape, thus, rusting internal parts. Thanks for any help received.
 

HarryVanderpool

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MrSteve, thank you very much for taking the time to take all of the pictures, anotate them, and share this procedure with others. VERY thoughtful of you! I purchaced the parts to fix my 1540. For some reason, a few of your pictures are not working. Can you fix that? I want to make sure i get all of your shots.
Thanks again!
Harry
 
  
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#36  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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MrSteve, thank you very much for taking the time to take all of the pictures, anotate them, and share this procedure with others. VERY thoughtful of you! I purchaced the parts to fix my 1540. For some reason, a few of your pictures are not working. Can you fix that? I want to make sure i get all of your shots.
Thanks again!
Harry


No problem, happy to help... I'm returning a PM to you about the pics, I see them all, I think.
 

DarrylH20

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No problem, happy to help... I'm returning a PM to you about the pics, I see them all, I think.

Could you please pm me the missing pics also. Having same problem with my 1533 but i made it to 1300 hrs. thank you
 
  
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#38  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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Could you please pm me the missing pics also. Having same problem with my 1533 but i made it to 1300 hrs. thank you

Harry never replied to my PM, so I am not sure if he seen the pics or not... Not knowing what ones are missing (if someone could tell me I will try to post them again), I sent him the link to my album, Here http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/showgallery.php/ppuser/21835/cat/500

I will also send you a PM Darry (I will forward the one I sent to Harry).
 
  
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#39  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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Thanks Darryl for your help on letting me know what pics were missing...

Something is going on with the gallery on this web site, so I posted the photos on another site and link them here...

Missing, #2
hubsealjob2_zps7266bb82.jpg


Missing, #9
hubsealjob9_zpse61f7455.jpg


#2 was just showing the tractor on jack stands.

#9 I believe I was just pointing out to make sure the old seal (inner part of that seal, if you look real close you can see the old inner part of the seal is still there, that rust is the old seal liner and not the spindle) was removed from the top of the drop spindle and to make sure to clean and lube with a bit of axle lube/oil on the new seal before putting everything back together.

Sorry for the pics not showing in my 1st post, not sure what is going on with the gallery on this web site.
 

Montellopnds

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Thanks for all the good tips MrSteve. I have a 1643 that has started to leak, over 2 years old and less than 200 hrs. Dealer quoted $500-$600. Yours looks very similar to what I have. When it warms up I am going to fix this.
 

TSO

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Good thread, I'll bookmark it in case of future issues on my 1648.
 
  
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#46  
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MrSteve

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Its great to see this thread is still helping people out after such a long time.
 

radrock

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I think I saved all of your photos Mr Steve a year or so, I have a 1526 and you just never know when something like that goes... I think mine is the same setup.
 
  
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#48  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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I think I saved all of your photos Mr Steve a year or so, I have a 1526 and you just never know when something like that goes... I think mine is the same setup.

Great! The 1526 is a bit smaller in frame/axle size isn't it? Even so, if it has the same drop spindles in the front like the 1533, I would have to think the R&R would be the same, but not the part numbers.
 

mack101

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This is happening on my 1528 so this is probably the same procedure.

Great reference!
 

radrock

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Great! The 1526 is a bit smaller in frame/axle size isn't it? Even so, if it has the same drop spindles in the front like the 1533, I would have to think the R&R would be the same, but not the part numbers.

I'm pretty sure it is. The 1529 might be the same as yours. But I think the concept is the same. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words!!
 
 
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