Hydraulic pump hardline leak on NX series

[MinnesotaEric]

This leak was found in the first three seconds of the engine running. The rear hardline has developed a crack in the weld Under a UV light to the naked eye this appears as a fusha green oil leak. Sadly, I'm not advanced enough to color-correct a camera for UV light but the rear hardline is cracked at the weld on the bung.

Now how to get at it to either mig or tig it.

 

[Dave Canfield]

Are you going to remove the hard line to weld it?
Looks like as much fun as the roof repair job I have going.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Are you going to remove the hard line to weld it?
Looks like as much fun as the roof repair job I have going.View attachment 1647227

I don't know yet. I'm going to look at the parts diagram to see what seals it (I think it is a square-cut o-ring, but don't know). I'd like to do an on-frame repair and just get it off of the pump, seal everything off, remove the paint, and given the clearance issues, mig it.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Now that I can see the bit in the light of day, it doesn't look as bad as I feared to swap out. Sadly, today is the last warm day we're likely to see this year here in north-central Minnesota, but I think I'm going to order a new part so long as somebody has it in stock.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Yep, just signed my Snowplowing contract today….

 

[MinnesotaEric]

So Michigan Iron had the hard line in stock suggesting this part fails often enough.

There is no procedure in the manual so to help others, here we go.

1) No need to remove the loader but you do need to lock the loader in the boom up position with a loader lock (so make one or pay somebody like myself to make you one).
2) If you're fat like myself, roll the tractor up on a set of 2x4s so to get some ground clearance or invite a skinny friend over to come help.
3) Clean the living begeesus out of the gear pump and hardline area and wipe down as best as you can the hard line.
4) Clamp off the heater hose off of the radiator, remove the line support and remove the hose clamp on the radiator and shove a bung in to keep all of the coolant from dripping out.
5) Using a 12mm whatever remove the two bolts from the hardline bung atop the gear pump.
6) On the underside use a 1-3/16" (a 1-1/4" will also work) wrench to remove the hardline from the underside and shove in another stopper to keep trans hydro fluid from oozing out.
7) route the hardline from the bottom up, to the rightside of the gear pump and from the top right side, pull up, forward and out.
8) Install a new O-ring in the new hardline's upper bung and use electrical tape to seal up the lower end to keep junk out while getting the tube routed into place.
9) Remove the stopper and install a new O-ring (undocumented in the parts book, BTW, but measured as 14.4mm ID) where the bottom of the hardline connects, remove your e-tape from the new hardline, make sure everything is clean and then thread on, but do not tighten the hardline onto the bottom.
10) Loosely start the two retaining bolts into the upper bung. Once started evenly torque them down until tight.
11) Tighten the lower hardline connection.
12) Pull the radiator plug, and install the heater hose, pull the clamp on the hose and reattach the hose support onto the gear pump.
13) Fill the radiator.