Hydraulic toplink for rear facing snow blower

[SylvainG]

Is it worth to have a hydraulic toplink for rear facing snow blower? Reason I'm asking is because I already have a remote for the chute that I'll be using this summer for the box grader by connection a toplink to my remote valve. During winter, with an extra valve, I could connect the toplink to the blower. My current one spool valve though is not optimal and I'm changing it, so I'm considering buying either a one spool or two spools valve. It would cost about $175 for the extra spool, hoses and fittings hence why I want advice on its use on a blower. My road is not flat. There biggest slope is about a 20 feet elevation difference over 100 feet with a few feet elevation now and there over 1000 feet if it matters,

Thanks.

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

I'm a lot more level for the driveway but for the hydro look into a Fasse Valve. Is it perfect? No. Does it work just fine? Yes. I'd try it with out it first but the valves could be a real benefit in the long haul. I wish I installed another really but I'll survive.

Saved thousands over any other options like adding #2 and 3 remotes.
Factory remote on the left and Fasse on the right mounted on a custom plate I machined.

 

[SylvainG]

Just realize by reading another thread, having two remotes would allow me to T&T my box grader so even if it's not practical for the snow blower, my box grader would appreciate it

 

[Cougsfan]

hydraulic top links make hooking up most implements much easier. As far as using the adjustment feature while using implements, I find the hydraulic top link much more valuable with my box blade than I do for my snow blower. it allows you to adjust the aggressiveness of the cut on the fly .

 

[mikester]

Yes it is. Go 3 spool if you can. I use my toplink and hydraulic chute rotator all the time.

 

[oosik]

I've had a Fit Rite hydraulic top link for seven plus years now. I find it a tremendous help for ALL my ground engagement implements. On-the-go changes to reach the near perfect implement alignment.

 

[joe48]

the main reason for adjusting the top link with a snow blower is if you have a gravel drive. at the start of the season tilt blower back so it skims over gravel and packs snow hard, then once you have a good base and won't dig gravel up tilt forward so cutting edge into snow. works great with a little practice.
But if you're going to add extra valves go for it , you won't be sorry and will find lot's of ways to use them to improve operations.

 

[hube2]

I don't have a hydraulic top link on my blower, and I have a gravel driveway. This is what I found last winter trying to adjust the top link.

First, because of the configuration of my blower I needed to lengthen the top link to lift the blade of the blower higher. Doing this put more pressure on the leading end of the skid shoes and all it accomplished was to allow the shoes to dig in faster and deeper completely defeating any height I had gained by making the adjustment.

I ended up getting longer, wider, taller shoes that I use until I get a good frozen base and then I switch back to the oem shoes.

 

[SylvainG]

It's decided, I'll go with the double spools valve. Triple spools would have been nice but where it's mounted on the rear fender, double spools barely fits so there is no space for a triple spools.

 

[jonsstihl]

if you are doing a custom install it wont be much more trouble to put them on the rops where you can fit as many as you want. I had three spools on my old b7800 and wished I had 4.

use a stack valve so they take up less space but then you need to be mindful of the size of your quick connects. I did 3/8 qd's on my triple stack valve and the middle spool was fun to hook/unhook to