Ice maker help

[Marlowe]

A while back there was a discussion here regarding a refrigerator problem and the solution was right on. I've got an ice maker problem and I've been to the seemingly appropriate forums looking for help and they've been disappointing. It seems that tractor people are way smarter than refrigerator people. Just in case there's someone here who can help, here's the issue. I've got a Roper fridge built in '99, obviously with an ice maker. A while back a rat chewed the water supply tube and I turned the supply valve off to stop the leak. Recently I replaced the line and turned the water valve on to refill the ice tray. It didn't stop refilling. I understand what part of the system determines when the ice is frozen. I understand the heater circuit. I even understand the solenoid actuated water inlet valve that lets the water get into the tray. What I don't understand is how the module controls that valve. How in the world does the module know when the ice tray is full of water and to turn off the solenoid and the water flow into the tray? Mine just keeps flowing and runs water into the freezer unless I turn off the valve manually. Once I do that the system works as it should and dumps the ice, but then the water would flow again without restriction never shutting off. Is this simply the module? Did it go bad just waiting on me to replace that chewed up water inlet tube? That's what it seems to me.

 

[triptester]

The rat may have also chewed the wiring that operates the selenoid. Ice makers usually contain a small motor and a timing gear. As the timing gear turns it closes and opens contacts in proper sequence.

 

[zonta223]

The rat may have also chewed the wiring that operates the selenoid. Ice makers usually contain a small motor and a timing gear. As the timing gear turns it closes and opens contacts in proper sequence.

x2 these things are normally a times fill not a level fill. When you disconnect the solenoid valve from the wiring does it allow water through? this type of valve normally works on a small plunger working on a small hole in the diaphragm and using the actual water pressure to turn the flow off and on. Anything blocking the small hole will make the valve inoperable.

 

[ustmd]

x2 these things are normally a times fill not a level fill. When you disconnect the solenoid valve from the wiring does it allow water through? this type of valve normally works on a small plunger working on a small hole in the diaphragm and using the actual water pressure to turn the flow off and on. Anything blocking the small hole will make the valve inoperable.

+3--but the other only thing I would check is for debris in the valve--if rats were chewing on the water line, small pieces of plastic may have gotten onto the valve seat causing leak by.

 

[Stimw]

Definately check valve for trash/sticking.

 

[cattoon]

I have no affiliation with this website but I am very pleased with their service and have bought several parts for washer,stove and fridges from them. Mods if this is not appropriate please don't ban me. repairclinic.com

 

[Marlowe]

I took the valve apart and cleaned it up. No particles or debris of any kind that I could find. I've noticed that if I leave the switch on with the water off the timer seems to do what it should. I hear the familiar click when the valve normally would open, and then a few seconds later another click when it would close. I'm beginning to think the valve is just stuck open. Thoughts?

 

[woodchuckie]

I also believe the valve is sticking. If it's a dual valve, one for the water dispenser, you can swap the wires on the valves and try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker and stop when you stop the water dispenser. If the water lines are the same size you could swap the lines to experiment with it.

 

[caver]

I had to order a valve for mine since it hasn't worked in years and never felt like fixing it.
Amazon has some cheap parts. About half the price of the appliance parts websites.

$17.xx on several sites via Amazon. repairclinic.com was $47.**

 

[CBW1999]

Appliance Parts at RepairClinic. 125 Brands. 365 Day Returns.

I agree with Cattoon- great site to get parts. I have been using them for years to keep our appliances going long after most people would just get rid of it rather than repair.

They also have some videos on how to repair appliances. Not really brand or model specific but gives you the general idea of how they function.

On a side note- the thread taught me something I didn't know about this type of ice maker- I always thought there was a little gremlin that turned the water on and off. Does anyone know if it is the same one that turns the light off as well, or are there 2?

 

[tc18ny]

Your solenoid valve has an electromagnetic coil that lifts the plunger. On a refer it is usually a 120vac circuit that is operated on a timer built into the control module. You can test the voltage to the valve with a multimeter when it is calling to fill the ice tray. If you have 120vac when the module calls for water and then 0vac when it isn't, the valve needs to be replaced. If you don't have 120vac any of the time or all of the time, the control module has a problem. There is an adjustment for the actual "fill time" but the adjustment range is only a few seconds and would not cause the valve to remain open, over-filling the tray.
Good luck

 

[59 Sons]

As mentioned by others, if water is flowing and there is no voltage across the solenoid terminals, the solenoid valve is bad. I usualy find those valves fail due to grit in the diaphram. Sometimes the spring that returns the needle fails. They make a rebuild kit, but at $85 per hour, its cheaper to replace the $20 valve.
I recomend an inexpensive sediment filter on your water suply line. I like the filters with the clear bowls that take a cheap 10 inch pleated filter cartrige, available at most home centers. If you are running drinking water thru it, the carbon dust impregnated ones make the water tast better. Shouldnt cost more than $12 for 2 pack.