Ignition issue

[eblanks]

In the little bit of free time I've had to work on this, I put the meter to the coil with the ignition to ON and get no reading. I did notice that the battery light on the dash panel lights up when I switch the key to ON so something is recognizing that the key is in the ON position. Someone mentioned checking fuses, can anyone point me to where I need to look for those?

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Jerry/MT]

In the little bit of free time I've had to work on this, I put the meter to the coil with the ignition to ON and get no reading. I did notice that the battery light on the dash panel lights up when I switch the key to ON so something is recognizing that the key is in the ON position. Someone mentioned checking fuses, can anyone point me to where I need to look for those?

Thanks again for all the help.

Check the voltage at the coil primary connections with the points closed and the ignition on. The battery side of the coil should read battery voltage and the distributor side should read near zero. With the points open, they will both read battery voltage. If they read zero, you have an open circuit between the battery and the coil. Ignition circuits are not normally fused so you either have a lose connection, a broken wire, or, ifthere is a solenoid in the circuit, it's not closing, etc. Not knowing exactly what kind of ignition circuit you have, that's about all I can say.......

 

[Down South]

On my 68 there are no fuses.
Unless there were some above the valve cover, much splicing occurred there.
On the replacement Diesel wiring harness there is 1 fuse for the dash ( lights and sending units only), poorly placed 1/3 of the way to the key switch from the dash.
I have seen info that later models had a fuse panel.

Perhaps check the big plug, 8 round connectors joining the 2 half harnesses.

DS

 

[Soundguy]

why not bypass and jumper it just as a test.. then work back from there.

kettering ignition systems are now over 100ys old... it's just wires, contacts, condensors and a spark gap... don't let it beat ya..

 

[Jerry/MT]

kettering ignition systems are now over 100ys old... it's just wires, contacts, condensors and a spark gap... don't let it beat ya..

True, but the devil is in the details!!!

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. that's why i suggest bypasing / hotwireing it to see if it runs.. then start working backwards moving 1 connection back each time. eventually you will croos a location that results in a no start / run, where the previous location DID start / run.

once you eclipse that location.. you have discovered your fault... or at least one of them.

soundguy

 

[jinman]

Someone mentioned checking fuses, can anyone point me to where I need to look for those?

Thanks again for all the help.

After looking at the parts diagram, the only fuse I see is a 25 amp fuse for the headlights. I think it is located on the light switch. I would go right to the ignition switch. If you have power in and none out on the "run" terminal, then you have found your problem.

 

[eblanks]

Quick update on this problem. I went through and cleaned a lot of the electrical connections that were either corroded or dirty. I was then able to get good readings on the volt meter and decided to try again. I got the tractor cranked and it ran for about 5 minutes or so. Sounded real good. I thought I had it licked. But then I had to go and mess it up. One other issue I'm working on is the tach gauge not working. So while the tractor was running, I pulled the instrument panel off and was going to pull off the tach cable to see if it was turning. Just as I was pulling the instrument panel out, the engine died. I checked all the connections in there and everything appearted to be ok. But now it won't crank at all anymore. The starter turns, the tractor coughs and sputters and will fire a little but not enough to get it running under it's own power. Is there anything in the instrument panel connections that are required to get juice to the engine? I see a fuse back behind the panel that I checked and it was in good shape.

 

[Soundguy]

check the resistor wire to the coil.. ie.. you will need to look at the key switch.. also check the bypass wire fromthe solenid just for the heck of it.

check power to the key itself.. though if it turns over.. key likely has power.

 

[eblanks]

Resolved !!
Thanks again for all the advice. Ultimately, cleaning and checking all the wiring connections fixed the issue of it not running when key was in the "on" position. Following that the tractor would run rough and backfire through the exhaust. Last night I put new plug wires on. The original configuration had all 3 wires squeezed through one small opening between the block and intake manifold. I spread them out to get some space between them. New plugs, dist. cap and rotor were also added. She runs smooth as silk now.