Improperly Ballasted

[deerefan]

No problems caused. The dealer knew b/c I bought the tractor and cutter at the same time. I asked very detailed questions about this combo and this was one of my concerns. I was going to go w/ a 7ft cutter but he advised the 6ft would be better for that is what the tractor calls for. Just found it a little lite in the front when using the required implements.

 

[wushaw]

Suitcase weights or FEL attached, I would do the suitcase weight thing just to keep the tractor shorter and more nimbal.

 

[SteveInMD]

I can see the point that the dealer might have mentioned that you could use from front end weight, if he sold you the tractor and rotary cutter at the same time, and he didn't sell you an FEL. However, if the tractor came stock with more front weight, and you wanted and FEL, then you've just wasted money on front weights that you should remove due to the FEL.

 

[HayDR]

An 8' 2 spindle 3 point mower would actually have a center of gravety closer to the tractor than a 6' or 7' single spindle 3 point cutter. Take a Rhino SE8 rotary cutter. The streamlined, close-coupled design allows economical operation on tractors as small as 30 HP.

 

[JoeinTX]

Not trying to pile on, but no OEM can properly rig a tractor for any and all conceivable uses. When you bought the tractor and shredder, did the dealer mention front weights to you? Not completely necessary, but I would've tried to sell them to you.

 

[TwinWillows]

What timing - I recently bought a new Rhino SE6 (?) bushhog & never heard that a 8' 2 shaft would work behind my NH TC40DA. What's one of those 2 shaft 8' ers go for? It might be worth trying to sell my 6' & getting 2 extra feet of cut.

 

[Birdhunter1]

in regards to teh newer tractors being lighter with all the plastic and such......
I have a 1968 MF 135 and added two 50 lb. suitcase weights to the front, to a tractor that is all steel construction, to alleviate this problem with the front being too light.

 

[Whiskey]

deerefan:

Look as if your getin' it from both ends, so I won't add to the "it's your fault" thingy.

Just a little differant idea on how to get under way while mowing, or at least how I do it......

1) Butt on seat
2) Belt on
3) Tractor started
4) 1500 or less RPM's ingage the mower and let off the clutch (just enuff RPM's to keep the motor from lugging)
5) Once it's all spinning good and smooth push clutch back in and select a gear and let out clutch and once moving push the hand throttle to where you want it....and off you go.

This will keep the front wheels on the ground and better on your equipment for the long haul.....

 

[keeney]

I will say that when I purchased my front loader, the dealer did everything in his power to sell me a ballast box because he knew it would be required to properly ballast the tractor with the loader. (I didn't buy it because I knew from TBN that I could make a ballast block out of bare concrete a lot cheaper).

So in my limited experience, the dealer has some responsibility to recommend a configuraiton of the tractor that has all the necessary ballast at the time its sold. If the dealer didn't even ask the buyer what they intended to do with it, then the dealer didn't impart some important informaiton they could have. If they suggested front weights and the buyer declined, well, they can only lead the horse to the water...

- Rick