Oil & Fuel Injector Oil Change?

[wcpeabody]

So, I am working my way around the tractor (I still have not found the dipstick for the motor oil, is there one?) changing the fluids.

I can not figure out how to change the oil in the injector pump, heck I am not even sure I know where the injector pump is.

I attached a few pictures of what I think the injector pump is. I "drew" on the pictures to show my questions.

Please take a look and let me know what you think.

Thanks again is advance,
Bill

 

[rich_ncal]

In your picture with the label "Where do I fill the injector?" My guess is the larger round object in the center is the breather cap on top of the pump. To the right of that are three fuel lines.

In the TS1910 manual is says to remove the breather cap when filling the oil. There are two plugs on the side of the pump, a lower one for draining the oil, and an upper one that the oil should be level with.

I would think if the breather is removed you could add oil at the breather or add oil at the check "Level Gauge Plug"

 

[rich_ncal]

Here is picture of my TS1610 fuel pump.

 

[larso1]

Here are some pics of my TS1610F 4x4, same as the TS1910 or -1910F. I guess I don't have a utility on my home computer to add text and arrows to the photos so I just named the files, pretty self-explanatory. I'll follow this with another reply adding more pics.

The threaded on oil fill cap on the LH bottom side of the engine (off the oil pan) has a dip stick attached to it. You inspect the oil level without threading the cap onto the fill neck, but don't forget to thread it on after you inspect it! You use 3.6 qts. of 30wt oil or like many, 5w-40 Rotella or equal. It fills a lot faster in the oil inspection cap (dip stick) than in the breather cap on top of the valve cover as you normally would in a car.

The engine oil drain plug is on the bottom of the oil pan behind the fill neck (there's one on each side of the pan if it is a 4x4).

If you have a 4x4, you should remove the plug on the LH top side of the front axle housing and see that there is sufficient 90wt gear oil to just cover the steel axle inside, you'll see it with a flashlight. The axle takes 4.8 qts.

The transmission case fill cap next to the gear shift is where you add 9 qts. (2-WD) or 10.5 qts.(4x4) 90 wt gear oil.

 

[larso1]

The transmission level is checked by removing that level plug in the side of the case.

The hydraulic fluid is checked and filled at that fill cap under the seat. Use a JD 303(?) equivalent spec fluid like that at Wal Mart. It takes 5.8 qts. There is a dip stick built into the cap.

If your hydraulic 3-pt is operating sluggish you should remove and clean the suction screen (2-bolt flange on the suction line) in the RH side of the hydraulic cylinder case, just below the seat.

As Rich has shown, the injector pump has two screw plugs near the bottom to drain and check level. The large mushroom shaped vent cap on top is what you remove to fill the pump with 0.12 qts. of your engine oil. But give the oil some time to drain to the bottom before removing the level plug or it will start coming out before it's full.

And, there are a lot of grease zerks all over to fill. HTH's.

Bill in CO

 

[wcpeabody]

Thanks for all of the input!

I figured the cap on the top was a breather that you pulled to fill the injector with but it was not coming off very easy and I was afraid to pull harder.

I am planning on changing the tranny fluid next weekend. Since I have bought the tractor a few days ago I have:

• Changed the oil
• Flushed the radiator
• Filled the front 4x4 axle (And found a leak :-( )
• Greased all of the zirks I could find - but I only found them on the FEL and the steering rods, should there be more?

Ohh, and I did find the dipstick for the engine oil. It is on the left side and it is a dipstick.

Bill in CO - How do you clean the lines out?

Thanks again,
BP

 

[larso1]

BP, by "lines" do you mean the hydraulic suction and pressure lines? You don't normally clean those out. What you do clean, only if you are having problems, is the suction screen that is inside the hydraulic cylinder (3-pt lift cylinder) case, under the seat. As I mentioned and show it is a two bolt flange that you remove and pull out the strainer/screen. But I personally wouldn't bother with that if you aren't having problems.

If you over-filled the front axle, you will most likely be leaking lube down the inside of the front wheels. As I mentioned, only fill to just over the axle, or about half full.

The breather cap on the injector pump is not pulled off, it is threaded on so you need to turn it off with a wrench.

There are grease zerks on the clutch shaft and brake shaft under the operators platform (just look under and see where they pivot). There is an important one in the center of the front axle where it attaches to the frame and pivots to follow the terrain...I think it's on the front side of the axle housing (differential case). Make sure to grease the front wheel pivot points (steering) next to each wheel, on top of the gear tower casting. These are plain bearings and can wear badly if not kept greased, especially when using a loader. Also, the steering wheel gear box is located at the base of the steering wheel shaft, under and behind the fuel tank. It takes 140wt gear oil but you have to remove the fuel tank to get to it (I haven't done this yet).

 

[jwscott]

You may find that the zerks on the clutch/brake shaft have been broken off so are not easy to see where they are. It's easy to damage them if drive over debris.
Jim

 

[wcpeabody]

Thanks guys, I got it done with your help.

 

[bareboatin]

Hi Guys , this is a old thread and my Ts2810 4wd may not have the same front axle assy.
I have the same looking check plug on the axle housing but if you remove the front wheel you wil find a top and bottom fill and drain plug. The two are seperate from the other.
The outer housings have a inner seal that prevent the oil in the axle housing from entering the outer drive housing. You need to check this because just putting oil in the axle housing with a bad seal in the outer housing it will just run out and you wil have a problem with the outer bearing and gears etc. The tractor I bought had this problem.
The guy I bought it from told me I only had to check the front housing oil dip stick.
he was wrong and when the outer bearings locked up I found out that there is three seperate gear oil housing . The two outer assy and the center axle housing .....oh ant the center front center gear housing. tks Chuck