Quebecguy
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Have you tried running it with the gas cap loose? The vent may be plugged.
International 444, 1968. Progress Thread, Getting Going
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DJ54
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- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Do I recall you had a spark tester, hopefully pocket type..?? If so, I'd carry it along if it does it again. Spark needs to be tested right then and there to determine if it is ignition problems, or fuel. Heck, pulling a plug wire will work if not. Even though you checked a bit afterwards and had voltage, things can cool off and work differently. But being it fired up after testing would lead me to believe it is a fuel issue. As mentioned, try running with the cap loose. I'm sure it will need to be worked hard like you were to get it to do it again. Leve the fuel level where it is if there is enough to work it a while, causing more air space for vacuum.
You mentioned fuel filter, is that an added inline filter..?? Personally, if I was going to add one, it'd be on the vacuum side of the fuel pump. I just checked (Google can be your friend) that the fuel pump delivers 4.5 psi. If filter is on the pressure side, if ever a connection would come loose, or line burst, pulled off for some reason, you're going to be pumping fuel on a hot engine which spells disaster.
If it is a fuel issue sounds like you're going to have to work it hard to get it to do it again. Before going back out, I'd visually inspect the inside of the fuel outlet and area around it. Could be a piece of debris floating around in there and will clog the outlet. Something like the tail end of a Bee is a perfect plug. Dad found that out back in the late 50's when driving his Farmall A home from the place he bought it. They will sort of float around in there until it gets over the outlet and get drawn in. When vacuum is relieved, they will float away. Being you have a fuel pump, and it may have been lower on fuel in the tank makes it more probable to happen.
From that point all the way to the carb and look for places for fuel restriction. Sediment bowl screen, outlet out of sediment bowl, inline filter, elbow strainer going into the carb. Maybe even drain the carb. bowl if there is a plug on the bottom and check for sediment/debris.
Again, it's probably something simple, just have to figure out what it is.
You mentioned fuel filter, is that an added inline filter..?? Personally, if I was going to add one, it'd be on the vacuum side of the fuel pump. I just checked (Google can be your friend) that the fuel pump delivers 4.5 psi. If filter is on the pressure side, if ever a connection would come loose, or line burst, pulled off for some reason, you're going to be pumping fuel on a hot engine which spells disaster.
If it is a fuel issue sounds like you're going to have to work it hard to get it to do it again. Before going back out, I'd visually inspect the inside of the fuel outlet and area around it. Could be a piece of debris floating around in there and will clog the outlet. Something like the tail end of a Bee is a perfect plug. Dad found that out back in the late 50's when driving his Farmall A home from the place he bought it. They will sort of float around in there until it gets over the outlet and get drawn in. When vacuum is relieved, they will float away. Being you have a fuel pump, and it may have been lower on fuel in the tank makes it more probable to happen.
From that point all the way to the carb and look for places for fuel restriction. Sediment bowl screen, outlet out of sediment bowl, inline filter, elbow strainer going into the carb. Maybe even drain the carb. bowl if there is a plug on the bottom and check for sediment/debris.
Again, it's probably something simple, just have to figure out what it is.
I spent another couple hours in the field this evening. The tractor ran perfect the whole time. I was ready to diagnose at a moments notice but had no need to. I suppose that is good, but it doesnt bring any conclusion to the conundrum yesterday yet.
On a side note - even at 42hp with our 5.5' brush hog the brush is so thick in places the tractor still lugs heavy in 1st gear low range. I had someone tell me that 17-20hp would be plenty to run this brush hog. Not out here. This is ridiculus growth. Once we get past the 1st cut and in to maintenance mowing then we wont need the HP, but still good to have for sure.
I think we did great on this one - size tractor with a loader for what we paid.
It took me about 20 minutes per lap to mow a trail around our back acreage. I made 2 laps for a fairly wide trail. The area I am tilling up for next year's garden I mowed. The rest of the acreage is just going to take a long time so we'll just pick at it. Then for the 2026 growing season I can look at opening more ground next year.
On a side note - even at 42hp with our 5.5' brush hog the brush is so thick in places the tractor still lugs heavy in 1st gear low range. I had someone tell me that 17-20hp would be plenty to run this brush hog. Not out here. This is ridiculus growth. Once we get past the 1st cut and in to maintenance mowing then we wont need the HP, but still good to have for sure.
I think we did great on this one - size tractor with a loader for what we paid.
It took me about 20 minutes per lap to mow a trail around our back acreage. I made 2 laps for a fairly wide trail. The area I am tilling up for next year's garden I mowed. The rest of the acreage is just going to take a long time so we'll just pick at it. Then for the 2026 growing season I can look at opening more ground next year.
Heres a quick video of it running, not doing anything but running.
And some pictures of what it's been up to the past 3 days now.
This is the area we're opening up for planting next spring. They uploaded backwards. It may get expanded more - I want a 1/4 acre so I'll measure and lay out what I can and go from there.
And some pictures of what it's been up to the past 3 days now.
This is the area we're opening up for planting next spring. They uploaded backwards. It may get expanded more - I want a 1/4 acre so I'll measure and lay out what I can and go from there.
DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,375
- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Well, that's good news I guess, at least for now. If you've suffered drought conditions like here those stemmy weeds are really tough. Once you get it tamed down and mowing more tender weeds & grass, it should handle it much better. About all you can do now is take a smaller swath, except on an opening swath, then pick it up a bit making a first round, then drop down to the cutting level you're at.
Most rotary cutter blades looking from the top turn CCW, so if you take 2/3-3/4 swath, with the 1/3-1/4 swath side running on what has already been cut may help unload debris to the side instead of carrying it around to the rear to discharge. Taking a full swath, some of those long stemmy weeds may have to go around twice before getting chopped up enough to be discharged. But taking a partial swath as mentioned may not chop up the stemmy weeds as fine as you want, being your planning on planting in it next year.
Blade sharpness makes a big difference too, but in that stemmy Golden Rod and Marestail, and saplings you don't want them real sharp, or it will leave mini bungee sticks which can get rough on tires. If the blades are dubbed off some, it should be leaving battered ends on the ends of those stemmy weeds.
Not sure what tillage tools you plan to use to work the ground, but those long stems could give you fits with a moldboard plow (my preferred method). Hopefully over the winter they will get brittle, and coulters will cut through or break them up.
I can tell you you've got quite a seed bank built up there. Be prepared to do a LOT of cultivating and hoeing for more than several years. Do a Google search for the seed viability for what you're seeing out there, you'll be amazed.
Personally, when I cultivate, I only cultivate the top 2"-2-1/2". Any deeper and you're just bringing more weed seeds to the top to germinate. Anything deeper than that more than likely won't germinate but may when you roll it over the following year.
Might be an idea to get a soil sample this Fall and send it in and see what you need. You can get sample bags at your County Extension Office. You should also get a sheet along with it and you can select what results you want back. At least get the basics for N-P-K and PH levels. I did get an additional Organic Matter level for my hay field several years back just to see what it was but cost extra. Basic test was $8.50. With the price of fertilizer, it beats guessing at what you need. You get your samples, then you mail them off to the University of KY. Results usually take 10-14 days. Your Extension Agent will go over them with you when they/you get the results back. Looking at the growth you're mowing off, I'd guess you're close, or even high in phosphorous.
If the PH needs adjusted, lime could be applied now to start working.
Not sure what set plants you plan on growing, but I mulch around mine with leaves. I collect from neighbors and know a couple guys that have and work for lawn services that do leaf pickup in the Fall that are more than happy to drop their loads of leaves here, rather than paying to dump them at a compost facility. Just a little FYI if you know of any lawn services close that provide that service. The season is nearly upon us for that, if you have plenty of room for them to dump. Here are a couple pics of my tomatoes this year. I mulched them mid-June, second pic is 2 weeks ago. Nearly weed free, and this year was a life saver with the drought retaining what little moisture they did get. Held them over until we got the 3-1/2" of rain from Helene, now they are back going like gangbusters, while everyone else's in the area are long dried up. Going out and pick a couple bushel's this morning.
I'm getting way ahead of the game here, better quit...
Most rotary cutter blades looking from the top turn CCW, so if you take 2/3-3/4 swath, with the 1/3-1/4 swath side running on what has already been cut may help unload debris to the side instead of carrying it around to the rear to discharge. Taking a full swath, some of those long stemmy weeds may have to go around twice before getting chopped up enough to be discharged. But taking a partial swath as mentioned may not chop up the stemmy weeds as fine as you want, being your planning on planting in it next year.
Blade sharpness makes a big difference too, but in that stemmy Golden Rod and Marestail, and saplings you don't want them real sharp, or it will leave mini bungee sticks which can get rough on tires. If the blades are dubbed off some, it should be leaving battered ends on the ends of those stemmy weeds.
Not sure what tillage tools you plan to use to work the ground, but those long stems could give you fits with a moldboard plow (my preferred method). Hopefully over the winter they will get brittle, and coulters will cut through or break them up.
I can tell you you've got quite a seed bank built up there. Be prepared to do a LOT of cultivating and hoeing for more than several years. Do a Google search for the seed viability for what you're seeing out there, you'll be amazed.
Personally, when I cultivate, I only cultivate the top 2"-2-1/2". Any deeper and you're just bringing more weed seeds to the top to germinate. Anything deeper than that more than likely won't germinate but may when you roll it over the following year.
Might be an idea to get a soil sample this Fall and send it in and see what you need. You can get sample bags at your County Extension Office. You should also get a sheet along with it and you can select what results you want back. At least get the basics for N-P-K and PH levels. I did get an additional Organic Matter level for my hay field several years back just to see what it was but cost extra. Basic test was $8.50. With the price of fertilizer, it beats guessing at what you need. You get your samples, then you mail them off to the University of KY. Results usually take 10-14 days. Your Extension Agent will go over them with you when they/you get the results back. Looking at the growth you're mowing off, I'd guess you're close, or even high in phosphorous.
If the PH needs adjusted, lime could be applied now to start working.
Not sure what set plants you plan on growing, but I mulch around mine with leaves. I collect from neighbors and know a couple guys that have and work for lawn services that do leaf pickup in the Fall that are more than happy to drop their loads of leaves here, rather than paying to dump them at a compost facility. Just a little FYI if you know of any lawn services close that provide that service. The season is nearly upon us for that, if you have plenty of room for them to dump. Here are a couple pics of my tomatoes this year. I mulched them mid-June, second pic is 2 weeks ago. Nearly weed free, and this year was a life saver with the drought retaining what little moisture they did get. Held them over until we got the 3-1/2" of rain from Helene, now they are back going like gangbusters, while everyone else's in the area are long dried up. Going out and pick a couple bushel's this morning.
I'm getting way ahead of the game here, better quit...
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I am hoping to get the garden area at least measured and staked to mark it tonight. I have a single tine ripper to break the compaction/pull up some roots.
What you say about the weed seeds is something Ive been concerned with ever since we started looking at this property. I presume that will be a battle. Im not sure what the best approach is, however we are wanting to stay away from chemicals if possible.
Additional tillage tools to come - 2 bottom plow with coulters and a disk maybe around 8ft wide. I want to do the initial turning over with the plow then level and maintain with the disk.
What you say about the weed seeds is something Ive been concerned with ever since we started looking at this property. I presume that will be a battle. Im not sure what the best approach is, however we are wanting to stay away from chemicals if possible.
Additional tillage tools to come - 2 bottom plow with coulters and a disk maybe around 8ft wide. I want to do the initial turning over with the plow then level and maintain with the disk.
So a new conundrum of sorts - I think...
With the brush hog this wasnt a huge issue, but was noticeable - the 3pt draft arms swing freely side to side. There is a retaining "chain" on each one to prevent either from swinging out too far.
However, I have not figured out how to tighten things up to prevent the swinging.
I hooked the ripper up tonight and got to thinking about this - I dont want the tillage tools swinging side to side, I dont think. That would make it impossible to be even reasonably accurate with where the tillage is occurring.
Thoughts?
With the brush hog this wasnt a huge issue, but was noticeable - the 3pt draft arms swing freely side to side. There is a retaining "chain" on each one to prevent either from swinging out too far.
However, I have not figured out how to tighten things up to prevent the swinging.
I hooked the ripper up tonight and got to thinking about this - I dont want the tillage tools swinging side to side, I dont think. That would make it impossible to be even reasonably accurate with where the tillage is occurring.
Thoughts?
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DJ54
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 4,375
- Location
- Carroll, Ohio
- Tractor
- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Not familiar with the chain set up on it, but normally where the chains attach to the connection point on the tractor is usually a "U" shaped clevis with a pin through it. Remove the clevis, and drop some links sliding dropped links back, so the clevis goes through and pulls on the front of the loop of a link in chain.
You can limit swing, but you don't want it rigid either. It does need some sideways movement to allow if you hit a rock, or just a slight turn of the steering wheel, while really not realizing it. A tillage implement if set up right should follow the central draft of the tractor. I'd try it as is for now and see how it does. On that subsoiler the main thing is to have your lift arms equal so the subsoiler shank is plumb. Once in the ground, it should follow the center draft of the tractor.
You'll probably have to play with the top link adjustment to get the subsoiler set to pull itself into the ground. Also enough to get it to pull down on the rearend of the tractor to provide extra traction when ripping. Those pull hard, especially if you're ripping through old hardpan if it has been farmed before, moldboard plowing.
Not sure on how deep you plan to rip, but if more than 14"-15" you'll want to maybe make 2 passes. Not that it may not pull it, but a buddy of mine has one just like that and bent the shank with a 50 hp tractor. Those shanks aren't tempered steel and although heavy, they will bend in the right ground conditions. He waited until it was really too dry to run his through a low spot he grows in and hold water.
Also, not sure what type of soil you have, but always remember there may be a big rock under the surface somewhere. Just be prepared to come to a sudden stop at any time.
You can limit swing, but you don't want it rigid either. It does need some sideways movement to allow if you hit a rock, or just a slight turn of the steering wheel, while really not realizing it. A tillage implement if set up right should follow the central draft of the tractor. I'd try it as is for now and see how it does. On that subsoiler the main thing is to have your lift arms equal so the subsoiler shank is plumb. Once in the ground, it should follow the center draft of the tractor.
You'll probably have to play with the top link adjustment to get the subsoiler set to pull itself into the ground. Also enough to get it to pull down on the rearend of the tractor to provide extra traction when ripping. Those pull hard, especially if you're ripping through old hardpan if it has been farmed before, moldboard plowing.
Not sure on how deep you plan to rip, but if more than 14"-15" you'll want to maybe make 2 passes. Not that it may not pull it, but a buddy of mine has one just like that and bent the shank with a 50 hp tractor. Those shanks aren't tempered steel and although heavy, they will bend in the right ground conditions. He waited until it was really too dry to run his through a low spot he grows in and hold water.
Also, not sure what type of soil you have, but always remember there may be a big rock under the surface somewhere. Just be prepared to come to a sudden stop at any time.
I thought I updated this thread here but it appears I didn't. In any event, I got the ripping done. The lowest I could get it was about a foot. That was as low as the 3pt would drop. I am suspecting the size of the tractor has a lot to do with that - it is a bigger machine for that type/size of tool.
That said - it has me questioning other tools like a 2 bottom plow and a disk. If I were to guess - those sized for the machine would be "bigger" implements anyway so the drop of t he 3pt, I would not think, would matter. But it is a question I'll pose and see what others here think/suggest.
Here are some pictures.
This is the ground as it was being prepped with brush hogging so you get a sense of what we were starting with.
This as we were ripping:
And the finished product - 1/8 acre to start with. This will be plowed under next (at some point - need to acquire a plow first). Then disked.
That said - it has me questioning other tools like a 2 bottom plow and a disk. If I were to guess - those sized for the machine would be "bigger" implements anyway so the drop of t he 3pt, I would not think, would matter. But it is a question I'll pose and see what others here think/suggest.
Here are some pictures.
This is the ground as it was being prepped with brush hogging so you get a sense of what we were starting with.
This as we were ripping:
And the finished product - 1/8 acre to start with. This will be plowed under next (at some point - need to acquire a plow first). Then disked.