JD 2305 Fuel Shutoff Diode Bad

[tomchiz]

I have a JD 2305 that was running just fine, I shut it off for only a few minutes. It would not restart. It would run for just a second then die each time I would attempt to start it. After some initial troubleshooting and Google searches, I figured the problem to be the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. The operation of the Solenoid is to pull back for 1 second during starting, then the solenoid is held back by a second signal while the ignition is on. When the ignition is switched off, it releases shutting off fuel supply to the injectors killing the engine. I removed the solenoid and observed its behavior when starting. Sure enough, it would withdraw (pull) for one second, but then it pop back out, effectively killing the fuel supply to the injectors. Of course with the solenoid removed, the tractor ran just fine, I just stuck my finger in the hole where the solenoid was mounted to kill the engine. This proved it was the solenoid (or so I thought).

I purchase a new solenoid ($180) from the JD dealer and rushed home to install it. What, the same problem?? How could it be? I measured the voltages at the solenoid (X4) connector, and had 12+ volts on the Pull wire (Blue) but only had 10 volts on the Hold wire (Grn/Red). I figured the 10v was enough but it was not.

After looking over the wiring schematics I figured the Diode at V4 was the culprit, but I had a difficult time locating it. (See photo attached) It is located in the wiring harness, all taped up, on the right side. I found 3 diodes taped in the harness on the right side. The lower one, just below the Fuel shutoff solenoid connector (X4) was V4 (nothing is labeled). I verified it was the V4 Diode by looking at the wire colors which are Black, Green w Red Stripe and Green. I removed the Diode from its socket by pushing needle nose pliers in and grabbing the TAB on the side of the diode and pulling it out. I tested the diode with my ohm meter, and one side was open. The diode should conduct positive current from either outside leg to the center but not back.

I called the JD dealer and he had to order the V4 diode ($8) which meant a 3 day wait. I looked through the schematics again and found that V7 Diode appeared to be the same one and it just powered the Hazard Flasher. I located V7 two up from the V4 and verified its wire colors (Red, Red, Green/White), removed it an put it into the V4 socket and everything worked fine (except the hazard lights)!

I put it all back together and finished mowing my 3 acres! Once the ordered part shows up, I will get my flasher back operational too.

Since I had a tough time finding the diodes I took a photo and labeled the components for easy reference, in case someone has a similar issue. The photo is of the wiring harness on the right side of the tractor not far from the forward/reverse directional petals. You have to remove the (8) 10mm screws holding the cover, remove the throttle leaver, remove the (4) phillips screws holding the console on and finally remove the EBreak linkage from the Ebreak handle to reach the harness and Diodes.


I hope this post helps someone else with the same issue. I tried to figure out what might have caused the diode to burn out. The only thing I can figure is about a month ago, my granddaughter had a birthday party at our house and there were about 30 kids over and I pulled a them for a hayride. I put my tractor away, but left the key in the ignition. When I went out the next week 3 or 4 days later, I noticed the key was in the ON position. There as only a small charge left in the battery. I had to jump it to get it started. Ever since then, I have noticed it took 2 or 3 tries to get the tractor started. If just figured the fuel filter was dirty or maybe a glow plug issue from the battery getting drained. But now I suspect I overheated the diode since it is energized when the ignition is ON? Or maybe it was just time for the diode to go who knows.

 

[Henri88]

:welcome: to TBN! Thanks for the info. A search on this forum would have save you a lot of aggravation. There is a few post concerning these diode. I had to replace the one for the flashers. Chances are that if you would've ask the service department, they would have told you about the diode. Hope you were able to return the solenoid.

Henri

 

[countrycuz]

I had the same issue with my 2305
I read here on the forums and changed out all three diodes plus the solenoid that I later tested and found to be working. the good thing was I bought the solenoid from ebay for 65 bucks and also replaced the ignition switch for 60 bucks. the tractor solenoid is still not getting the pull in voltage to let the tractor run.
It will hold the solenoid in if you push it in with your fingers but will not pull it in so the holding voltage is working. I ran out of ideas and took it to John deere yesterday.
I told them everything that was not the problem. I am thinking its some relay that I could not locate that had gone bad.

 

[netwayne]

What was the resolution for your issue, Countrycuz?

 

[Elderfin]

I have had the exact same problem. Mine seems to happen when I drop the rear tires in a chug hole or low spot that I don't see in the field. This makes me think I have a short in the wiring harness somewhere, but I haven't found yet. The diodes where replaced and the tractor runs fine. At the moment. Thanks for the picture. They are hard to find without a visual reference.

 

[bdh43aes]

Tomchiz,

Thanks for the photo and the very detailed post but I have a question. What model year is your 2305? In another forum I read a post that said the wiring harness is on the left side of the tractor. I'm wondering if JD changed the location of the wiring harness from one side to the other at some point.

 

[stevenpom]

Two Shop Visits and my Dealer did not Find This Intermittent Problem.
i Just found this, dug around finding the Diodes, which where not the same as the photo, but i was able to find them and It.s Running Again.

Thank You

 

[DanMc77]

The other problematic component with this fuel shutoff solenoid is the thermister that engages the additional coil that gives it enough guts to pull in. Then when the thermister warms up it releases the current going to that additional coil. It's kind of like a start winding in a motor. There are plenty of threads hear to read up on the issue.

 

[Spanner]

I have a JD 2305 that was running just fine, I shut it off for only a few minutes. It would not restart. It would run for just a second then die each time I would attempt to start it. After some initial troubleshooting and Google searches, I figured the problem to be the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid. The operation of the Solenoid is to pull back for 1 second during starting, then the solenoid is held back by a second signal while the ignition is on. When the ignition is switched off, it releases shutting off fuel supply to the injectors killing the engine. I removed the solenoid and observed its behavior when starting. Sure enough, it would withdraw (pull) for one second, but then it pop back out, effectively killing the fuel supply to the injectors. Of course with the solenoid removed, the tractor ran just fine, I just stuck my finger in the hole where the solenoid was mounted to kill the engine. This proved it was the solenoid (or so I thought).

I purchase a new solenoid ($180) from the JD dealer and rushed home to install it. What, the same problem?? How could it be? I measured the voltages at the solenoid (X4) connector, and had 12+ volts on the Pull wire (Blue) but only had 10 volts on the Hold wire (Grn/Red). I figured the 10v was enough but it was not.

After looking over the wiring schematics I figured the Diode at V4 was the culprit, but I had a difficult time locating it. (See photo attached) It is located in the wiring harness, all taped up, on the right side. I found 3 diodes taped in the harness on the right side. The lower one, just below the Fuel shutoff solenoid connector (X4) was V4 (nothing is labeled). I verified it was the V4 Diode by looking at the wire colors which are Black, Green w Red Stripe and Green. I removed the Diode from its socket by pushing needle nose pliers in and grabbing the TAB on the side of the diode and pulling it out. I tested the diode with my ohm meter, and one side was open. The diode should conduct positive current from either outside leg to the center but not back.

I called the JD dealer and he had to order the V4 diode ($8) which meant a 3 day wait. I looked through the schematics again and found that V7 Diode appeared to be the same one and it just powered the Hazard Flasher. I located V7 two up from the V4 and verified its wire colors (Red, Red, Green/White), removed it an put it into the V4 socket and everything worked fine (except the hazard lights)!

I put it all back together and finished mowing my 3 acres! Once the ordered part shows up, I will get my flasher back operational too.

Since I had a tough time finding the diodes I took a photo and labeled the components for easy reference, in case someone has a similar issue. The photo is of the wiring harness on the right side of the tractor not far from the forward/reverse directional petals. You have to remove the (8) 10mm screws holding the cover, remove the throttle leaver, remove the (4) phillips screws holding the console on and finally remove the EBreak linkage from the Ebreak handle to reach the harness and Diodes.
View attachment 317630

I hope this post helps someone else with the same issue. I tried to figure out what might have caused the diode to burn out. The only thing I can figure is about a month ago, my granddaughter had a birthday party at our house and there were about 30 kids over and I pulled a them for a hayride. I put my tractor away, but left the key in the ignition. When I went out the next week 3 or 4 days later, I noticed the key was in the ON position. There as only a small charge left in the battery. I had to jump it to get it started. Ever since then, I have noticed it took 2 or 3 tries to get the tractor started. If just figured the fuel filter was dirty or maybe a glow plug issue from the battery getting drained. But now I suspect I overheated the diode since it is energized when the ignition is ON? Or maybe it was just time for the diode to go who knows.

Thankyou for this detailed post & photo. I'm hoping it solves my similar problem.

(A possible difference between the 2210 and the 2305 is I don't think the 2305 has the Thermistor component. Can anyone confirm?)

 

[Spanner]

To follow-up.
This remedy (from 'tomchiz') was an exact solution to the problem.
The wiring schematic explains the situation precisely.

If you turn the ignition to 'Run' you hear the Fuel Shut-off Solenoid (FSS) activate.(A heavy 'Click') - So you know the 'Pull' circuit is ok.
A second later you hear the Fuel Solenoid 'clunk' out. (Glow Plugs activate and shut off later - You can observe the dashboard lights dim, then brighten, to confirm the current draw.) Turn the key to 'Start' and you can crank all day. No Start.

The 'Hold' circuit fails. Check the schematic and you see the suspect component is the V4 Diode.

However, if you turn the key to 'Run' and then 'Start' straight away the engine will start and run for the one second the Timer allows the 'Pull' coil to operate. With no 'Hold' the FSS only opens the fuel rack for one second. But the engine will run for one second.

Replacing the V4 Diode solves this problem.

Thanks to all who provided corroborating info.