JD 3720 front axle grease fittings have a cover?

[JDneophyte]

Howdy

Did some maintenance on the tractor this weekend (oil,filter, front axle transmission fluid change).....and went to grease the front axle fittings.....and they're covered/sealed. The manual shows them as open (where they can easily be got at with a grease gun).....so I attempted to pop the covers off...no go. The covers are made of aluminum or the like, but couldn't find a point to get under them, nor twist them off.

Any thoughts?


Thank you

Bob

 

[kennyd]

The manual is not updated, JD eliminated most grease zerks on the CUT's :thumbdown:

 

[Riderguy]

I too have the 3720 (open station) and agree with kennyd, no zerks on the front axle. The rest of the manual is correct in regards to location of the other zerks on the 3pt as well as the numerous ones on the FEL.

Scott

 

[JDneophyte]

Thank you gentlemen. One less set of zerks to grease. I have a bunch of other "toys" that love the grease gun (mainly the Bobcat), so this is excellent news.

When I changed the the front axle fluid (I have about 2000 hours on the machine).....it was a light rusty green (almost like old coolant)........similar results?

 

[megaboz]

Thank you gentlemen. One less set of zerks to grease. I have a bunch of other "toys" that love the grease gun (mainly the Bobcat), so this is excellent news.

When I changed the the front axle fluid (I have about 2000 hours on the machine).....it was a light rusty green (almost like old coolant)........similar results?

You might to change it again and flush the rest of it out. IMO, 2000 hours is way too long, but I am a big believer that fluid is cheaper than steel! Moisture likes to go where the heat is, so that is my main reason for changing not because it has the hours on it. Don't skimp and buy cheap oil unless you change it once a season and even then I still believe in using the good stuff.

 

[arlen4720]

Thank you gentlemen. One less set of zerks to grease. I have a bunch of other "toys" that love the grease gun (mainly the Bobcat), so this is excellent news.

When I changed the the front axle fluid (I have about 2000 hours on the machine).....it was a light rusty green (almost like old coolant)........similar results?

Some people dye the fluid so it shows up on the dipstick better. That could explain the weird color. What's the recommended service interval for that?

 

[JDneophyte]

It's 1000 hr interval between hydrostatic fluid changes.......I bought the tractor with about 1700hrs on it from a dealer in Northern Wisconsin. I agree on "don't skimp".....you get what you pay for (used Hyguard fluid). I do the same with my Bobcat.

I hold the dipstick up to the light to see if the level is good (yellow fluid on yellow dipstick......not sure why they put those two together).....though I can see how a red dye would help.

 

[Riderguy]

It's 1000 hr interval between hydrostatic fluid changes.......I bought the tractor with about 1700hrs on it from a dealer in Northern Wisconsin. I agree on "don't skimp".....you get what you pay for (used Hyguard fluid). I do the same with my Bobcat.

I hold the dipstick up to the light to see if the level is good (yellow fluid on yellow dipstick......not sure why they put those two together).....though I can see how a red dye would help.

I have an '09 3720 Open Station and here is a direct quote from the manual:

Servicing Your Machine
Please use the following timetables to perform routine
maintenance on your machine.
As Needed
• Replace alternator belt.
• Replace air filter elements (see air restriction indicator).
• Replace cab air filters.
• Replace light bulbs.
• Replace fuses.
• Clean and replace battery.
• Replace radiator hoses and clamps.
• Check tire air pressure.
• Clean fuel tank overfill reservoir.
• Drain water and sediment from fuel tank, and service
water separator.
• Check and adjust front wheel toe-in.
• Check and clean grille and side screens.
• Check and clean radiator cooling screen.
• Clean debris from engine compartment.
• Adjust all cables to acquire appropriate travel for
engagement (cabs).

After First 10 Hours
• Check wheel bolt torque.
• Check cab rollover protection system mounting hardware
torque.
• Check windshield wiper arm mounting hardware torque.

Every 10 Hours or Daily
• Test safety systems.
• Check engine oil level.
• Check transmission oil level.
• Check air filter rubber dust unloading valve.
• Check radiator coolant level.

Every 50 Hours
• Check front axle oil level.
• Lubricate machine.
• Check cab protection system mounting hardware torque.
• Clean or replace cab air filters.

Every 200 Hours
• Change engine oil and filter.
• Inspect alternator belt.
• Check air restriction indicator light.
• Check wheel bolt torque.

Every 400 Hours
• Change transmission oil and filter.
• Replace fuel filter.

Every 600 Hours
• Check engine low idle speed.
• Check air filter intake hoses and clamps.
• Change front axle oil.
• Check front axle thrust bolt torque.
• Check brake adjustment.

Yearly
• Change engine oil and filter if less than 200 hours of
operation.
• Drain water from fuel tank and replace fuel filter.
• Check all hoses and clamps.
• Check battery electrolyte level.
IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Operating in extreme
conditions may require more frequent service
intervals:
• Engine components may become dirty or plugged
when operating in extreme heat, dust or other
severe conditions.
• Engine oil can degrade if machine is operated
constantly at slow or low engine speeds or for
frequent short periods of time.

Every 1200 Hours
• Check and clean inline hydraulic filter.
• Check engine valve clearance. See your John Deere
dealer.

Every Two Years or 2000 Hours
• Flush and replace factory coolant. Flush cooling system
and replace coolant with John Deere COOL-GARD engine
coolant.
• Service fuel injection nozzles.