deere5105
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Trying to decide if these need repairing/replacing or wait until give signs of trouble. Read some threads of varying thoughts in dealing with tie rod ends. Any thoughts or experiences?
JD 5303 Tie Rod Ends
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Deere Dude
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I would start looking around and pricing because you really don't want to have them crap out at a bad time with no parts. I just switched mine after 750 hours after 1 broke.
BertZegers
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If there is no play on them, leave them. If you need to replace, you might want to compare the JD price with a universal one. Moog Inner Tie Rod Ends by Dimension
I think a local car parts supplier or Rock auto can help.
Before you take the inner tie rod out, take measurements to keep your alignment correct.
I think a local car parts supplier or Rock auto can help.
Before you take the inner tie rod out, take measurements to keep your alignment correct.
Deere Dude
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Easy to change out just don't change the length of the tie rod. Some are also left hand threads.
There is no play, noise, etc... First noticed the rubber boot split and then a metal ring. Been looking for a video to show the process of replacing on similar tractor, but so far haven’t found one. May try to wait until next winter to replace. Just don’t want to let something go that could make things worse than they need to be.
5030
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You have 2 different things there. You have a tie rod end which you should be able to get aftermarket a helluva lot cheaper than the green one but you also have the radial steering ram joint and they will most likely be a JD only part and they are very expensive, like around 175 clams each Both are easy to replace but like I said, the inner radial joint is expensive and needs a rubber boot to keep the crap out of it.
5030
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The inner joint (that is attached to the steering ram) is the radial joint and that will probably be a Deere part, 90% sure on that and I think about 175 bucks each. I'm very careful to make sure the boots don't get damaged as dirt will eat them up pretty quick. Every few years I pop the outer boot clip and inject some synthetic grease in the joint with a needle greaser and put the boot back on. Easy to replace, expensive to buy. The outers come off with a pickle fork. I have Kubota's but the joints are very similar and that is what the Kubota joint costs, I know, I had to replace one after 12 years and 4000 hours. No aftermarket choice on that one. Time to bleed green...lol
The inner radial joint has a jam nut holding it. Loosen the jam nut and wind the joint out (it will have a threaded stud that goes in the steering ram. Before you do, break the other jam nut that holds the tie rod sleeve, the pop the outer end out of the planetary casting so the whole assembly is free (easier to break the jam nuts with the assembly still attached at both ends). Once the nuts are loose. pop the outer joint and wind the sleeve that attaches to the radial joint off (measure how much thread is showing first), take the sleeve and outer joint off, unscrew the radial joint and replace, using the old jam nut. Thread the sleeve down to your measured thread depth, put the outer tie rod end back in the planetary casting and secure, Tighten the jam nuts and you are good to go.
The inner radial joint has a jam nut holding it. Loosen the jam nut and wind the joint out (it will have a threaded stud that goes in the steering ram. Before you do, break the other jam nut that holds the tie rod sleeve, the pop the outer end out of the planetary casting so the whole assembly is free (easier to break the jam nuts with the assembly still attached at both ends). Once the nuts are loose. pop the outer joint and wind the sleeve that attaches to the radial joint off (measure how much thread is showing first), take the sleeve and outer joint off, unscrew the radial joint and replace, using the old jam nut. Thread the sleeve down to your measured thread depth, put the outer tie rod end back in the planetary casting and secure, Tighten the jam nuts and you are good to go.
5030
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The inner radial joint has to be able to move up and down as the front axle articulates and side to side as you cut the wheels. if it was seized or rigid, as the axle articulated, the tie rod would break off. Everything else is rigid except that joint, why it's important to watch the boots for rips or tears, that joint has to move without resistance. What it is, is a captive ball and socket and it's hardened and filled with grease for lubrication.