JD 630 clutch slipping

   / JD 630 clutch slipping #12  

Tx Jim

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Jan 26, 2007
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9,704
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Coyote Flats,Tx
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JD 4255/Kubota M7040 HDC
You're welcome. I think R&R of seal is relatively simple task after clutch pulley has been removed.
 
   / JD 630 clutch slipping #13  

David Wayne

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Feb 3, 2011
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226
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Central Ohio
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Kubota L3400
Did you replace that seal? It is more involved than just removing the clutch, you have to remove the first reduction gearbox and a couple gears to get at the bearing housing. When you get the bearing housing off look at part #29 on that same diagram, it is a little seal for the oil passage and can become clogged from swelling and starve the main bearing of oil. I currently have the crank out of my 630 to replace mains for this reason.

David
 
   / JD 630 clutch slipping #14  

rScotty

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Apr 21, 2001
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6,248
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Rural mountains - Colorado
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Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Did you replace that seal? It is more involved than just removing the clutch, you have to remove the first reduction gearbox and a couple gears to get at the bearing housing. When you get the bearing housing off look at part #29 on that same diagram, it is a little seal for the oil passage and can become clogged from swelling and starve the main bearing of oil. I currently have the crank out of my 630 to replace mains for this reason.

David

How in the world did you find that part to be the problem? And what would cause it to swell? That's what would bother me. Although I know if it is an O ring installing them with vaseline will cause them to swell. I imagine the same goes for anykind of seal made out of the same type of rubber.
rScotty
 
   / JD 630 clutch slipping #15  

David Wayne

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Feb 3, 2011
Messages
226
Location
Central Ohio
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Kubota L3400
I found referance to it on line and threading a short piece of brass tube (think top of an old lamp) into the frame to go through the o-ring/seal to keep it open. Both sides of mine are plugged solid with what appears to be carbon or hard rubber. That is also the passage for oil to the rods, I dodged one there the rod bearings seem fine. I will start a thread later detailing the restoration and various repairs I have done.

David
 
   / JD 630 clutch slipping #16  

rScotty

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Messages
6,248
Location
Rural mountains - Colorado
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Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
A brass tube? How does that work? & how would you get it in there? This is the first I've heard of a problem with that.
Anyway, I hope you do start that thread on the 30 series. I haven't done any restoration on our 530. Mostly just patchwork repairs here and there due to it living outside in the weather all its life. It's probably getting close to time for a tuneup and lube changes.
rScotty
 
   / JD 630 clutch slipping
  • Thread Starter
#17  
OP
jhansen17

jhansen17

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Jun 2, 2014
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Omaha, NE
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John Deere 630
Well I finally got a chance to dig into this a little more. I removed the adjusting nuts and everything that would come off after removing those. I don't really know what I'm looking for when assessing facings, but what I see/feel so far seems pretty smooth. I'll snap a few pics to post to see if the group can help any on the basis of those.

I've seen in some places how to use square nuts and bolts as pullers to remove the fixed clutch drive disk (A5642R) to get at the second facing behind that disk. Can someone recommend what size nuts/bolts are best to use?

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   / JD 630 clutch slipping #18  

rScotty

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Apr 21, 2001
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6,248
Location
Rural mountains - Colorado
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Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Everything there looks fine. In fact, far better than mine did when I took it apart. But all those parts look to be fine. Mine wasn't slipping, it was rusted and stuck.

I ordered new friction disks (Steiner tractor) and a new one shiny disk with the teeth on the inside. Was going to order springs, but cleaned up the old ones instead.

I did not take mine apart any farther than you have yours. Then reassembling I noticed that someone years before had put an extra friction disk into mine. I removed it and only used the parts just exactly like it shows in the manual.
Adjusted it so that it was too tight for the clutch lever to engage and then loosened the springs until the hand clutch lever engaged with a snap... and then a bit farther to make it easier to do.
Worked fine.
If I didn't know better I would say all yours needs is to get the adjustment right between the spring nuts and the over-center mechanism in the clutch lever. The parts look fine.

There are some more parts if you disassemble it farther - But I only know that because I see them in the parts book. I've never done that.
rScotty
 
 
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