dhelvey
New member
My rear differential does not lock. Is there an adjustment and procedure to make the adjustment.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
Jinma 284 Rear Differential Lock Adjustment
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piper184
Gold Member
Take a look at this parts page:
There are two diagrams and the parts you need to know about are in the right hand diagram. Click on that and then hover over the image to see it zoomed in. Look for part call out #139 and the associated pieces.
The way it works are there are two drive dogs on the inside that are pushed together by a fork. The fork is spring loaded so that it will disengage on its own. The shaft that pushes the fork actually goes through to the outside of the housing and uses an o-ring for a seal. The end of that shaft has a threaded hole that a round headed bolt and jam nut screws into. This is your adjustment.
On the lever is a cam shape that pushes on the end of the bolt when you move the lever down. The lever/cam assembly is held to the housing with two bolts. If these bolts come loose and let the bracket pull away from the housing, the cam can't push the shaft inwards far enough to actuate the fork.
Here is a picture of my tractor with everything in place. This was taken in the winter after I had a hydraulic leak and it was too cold to wash off the mess. Also, I have modified my lever assembly by welding on an extension so that the lever is moved over closer to the fender. If you look closely you can see the very end of the shaft sticking out of the housing and the jam nut up against it. You can see that the shaft actually only travels about 1/4".
To adjust it, I would take the lever bracket off and make sure the shaft moves in and out as it should. You may need to jack up one wheel so it will spin in order to get the internal jaws to engage. When they are locked together with one wheel on the ground the one int he air will lock up.
Then loosen the jam nut and turn the adjuster inward some and pull the shaft outward as far as it will go. Replace the lever bracket assembly and tighten it to the housing. While holding the lever in the most upward position, back the adjuster bolt out until it just touches the cam and tighten the jam nut.
While the wheel is still in the air, activate the lever while spinning the free wheel to make sure it engages and disengages properly.
The way it works are there are two drive dogs on the inside that are pushed together by a fork. The fork is spring loaded so that it will disengage on its own. The shaft that pushes the fork actually goes through to the outside of the housing and uses an o-ring for a seal. The end of that shaft has a threaded hole that a round headed bolt and jam nut screws into. This is your adjustment.
On the lever is a cam shape that pushes on the end of the bolt when you move the lever down. The lever/cam assembly is held to the housing with two bolts. If these bolts come loose and let the bracket pull away from the housing, the cam can't push the shaft inwards far enough to actuate the fork.
Here is a picture of my tractor with everything in place. This was taken in the winter after I had a hydraulic leak and it was too cold to wash off the mess. Also, I have modified my lever assembly by welding on an extension so that the lever is moved over closer to the fender. If you look closely you can see the very end of the shaft sticking out of the housing and the jam nut up against it. You can see that the shaft actually only travels about 1/4".
To adjust it, I would take the lever bracket off and make sure the shaft moves in and out as it should. You may need to jack up one wheel so it will spin in order to get the internal jaws to engage. When they are locked together with one wheel on the ground the one int he air will lock up.
Then loosen the jam nut and turn the adjuster inward some and pull the shaft outward as far as it will go. Replace the lever bracket assembly and tighten it to the housing. While holding the lever in the most upward position, back the adjuster bolt out until it just touches the cam and tighten the jam nut.
While the wheel is still in the air, activate the lever while spinning the free wheel to make sure it engages and disengages properly.
Thank you so much!Take a look at this parts page:
There are two diagrams and the parts you need to know about are in the right hand diagram. Click on that and then hover over the image to see it zoomed in. Look for part call out #139 and the associated pieces.
The way it works are there are two drive dogs on the inside that are pushed together by a fork. The fork is spring loaded so that it will disengage on its own. The shaft that pushes the fork actually goes through to the outside of the housing and uses an o-ring for a seal. The end of that shaft has a threaded hole that a round headed bolt and jam nut screws into. This is your adjustment.
On the lever is a cam shape that pushes on the end of the bolt when you move the lever down. The lever/cam assembly is held to the housing with two bolts. If these bolts come loose and let the bracket pull away from the housing, the cam can't push the shaft inwards far enough to actuate the fork.
Here is a picture of my tractor with everything in place. This was taken in the winter after I had a hydraulic leak and it was too cold to wash off the mess. Also, I have modified my lever assembly by welding on an extension so that the lever is moved over closer to the fender. If you look closely you can see the very end of the shaft sticking out of the housing and the jam nut up against it. You can see that the shaft actually only travels about 1/4".
View attachment 2105590
To adjust it, I would take the lever bracket off and make sure the shaft moves in and out as it should. You may need to jack up one wheel so it will spin in order to get the internal jaws to engage. When they are locked together with one wheel on the ground the one int he air will lock up.
Then loosen the jam nut and turn the adjuster inward some and pull the shaft outward as far as it will go. Replace the lever bracket assembly and tighten it to the housing. While holding the lever in the most upward position, back the adjuster bolt out until it just touches the cam and tighten the jam nut.
While the wheel is still in the air, activate the lever while spinning the free wheel to make sure it engages and disengages properly.
Dave
