DonRina
Bronze Member
My 2005 354 brakes were always sketchy. You really had to step on them to get any response even after adjustment. Given the hilly nature where I live I decided they needed attention.
The first issue was access to the side covers. This required removing the fenders and rops. No issues here just heavy! I then chocked the front wheels, jacked up the rear from the center of the transmission spreading the load with a 2x8 plank. Two axle stands then supported the axles. Both wheels were then removed…mine have weights so fairly heavy.
Next up was removal of the cover plate. Once opened up the brake disc I could see looked remarkably good and no oil was present. Strange, I was expecting worse. From the rear of the housing I loosened the large access bolt. This gives you room to remove the Clevis pin which holds the two actuating arms. Once removed you can wriggle out the brake disc, then the two pressure plates, then the remaining discs. Doing so absolutely nothing really looked amiss. I did note the metal surfaces didn’t look worn. Disc’s both were thick and looked ok. The rear seals at the back of the housing looked ok after I removed the cover. Removed the sleeve circling and removed the sleeve which just slid out being carefull not to damage it. Behind the sleeve on the brake shaft, the o ring looked ok so I removed it.
At this point I split the pressure plates by levering off the three springs. Inside there was minor surface rust and the three 22.225mm bearings looked ok. I cleaned up the bearings raceways with a 1” twist wire wheel. Wheel abraded all metal brake surfaces with 180 grit scotch brite wheels.
So why did this side of the brakes suck? Well, as it turns out the outside lever mechanism was basically seized. I removed the whole thing and freed up the shaft using atf mixed with acetone. This is my go to mixture for this but wear gloves.
Once freed up I removed all the rust using Emory paper wrapped on a round punch shaft in my drill. Went to 220 grit for this the shaft itself was spun up on my drill press and similarly cleaned up. Coated everything with marine grease and it worked well.
After this I replaced the o ring and installed two new oil seals. No mystery here. I do place tape over the splined brake shaft to not cut up the o ring though.
Reassembled the whole mess and voila that side worked great now for the other side. I’ll do this as post 2.
The first issue was access to the side covers. This required removing the fenders and rops. No issues here just heavy! I then chocked the front wheels, jacked up the rear from the center of the transmission spreading the load with a 2x8 plank. Two axle stands then supported the axles. Both wheels were then removed…mine have weights so fairly heavy.
Next up was removal of the cover plate. Once opened up the brake disc I could see looked remarkably good and no oil was present. Strange, I was expecting worse. From the rear of the housing I loosened the large access bolt. This gives you room to remove the Clevis pin which holds the two actuating arms. Once removed you can wriggle out the brake disc, then the two pressure plates, then the remaining discs. Doing so absolutely nothing really looked amiss. I did note the metal surfaces didn’t look worn. Disc’s both were thick and looked ok. The rear seals at the back of the housing looked ok after I removed the cover. Removed the sleeve circling and removed the sleeve which just slid out being carefull not to damage it. Behind the sleeve on the brake shaft, the o ring looked ok so I removed it.
At this point I split the pressure plates by levering off the three springs. Inside there was minor surface rust and the three 22.225mm bearings looked ok. I cleaned up the bearings raceways with a 1” twist wire wheel. Wheel abraded all metal brake surfaces with 180 grit scotch brite wheels.
So why did this side of the brakes suck? Well, as it turns out the outside lever mechanism was basically seized. I removed the whole thing and freed up the shaft using atf mixed with acetone. This is my go to mixture for this but wear gloves.
Once freed up I removed all the rust using Emory paper wrapped on a round punch shaft in my drill. Went to 220 grit for this the shaft itself was spun up on my drill press and similarly cleaned up. Coated everything with marine grease and it worked well.
After this I replaced the o ring and installed two new oil seals. No mystery here. I do place tape over the splined brake shaft to not cut up the o ring though.
Reassembled the whole mess and voila that side worked great now for the other side. I’ll do this as post 2.
