JM 284 Think my clutch needs adjusting? ?

[greg_g]

If the fork is properly pinned to the shaft, the throwout bearing will move back and forth as the clutch arm is moved. The (pinned) connection of the fork to the shaft must be strong enough to allow the bearing to depress the 3 clutch release fingers all the way to full release.

Not your fault, but I can't see the critical adjustment points very well in your photos. If you go back to the exploded diagram, nut 22 must be adjusted to where there's a 1.2mm gap between it and the main pressure plate (8). The handiest way to do that is to tighten until only 1 turn of spring 23 is visible. Then secure in place with nut 11. After that, the 3 fingers #15 are adjusted to within +/-0.1mm of each other with bolt 7 (three of them). Finally, a 2.5mm gap (+/-0.5mm) between the fingers and the vertical face of bearing 21 is obtained by adjusting the position of yoke 48 on pull rod 46

//greg//

 

[chris85]

OK, so I made all the adjustments, as you can see from my new photos the gaps are set now. The release bearing moves back and forth smoothly with a screwdriver but the shaft #17 and Fork still do not budge.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Chris,

Have you had a helper depress the clutch pedal while you look in the access window to see if the shaft/fork is moving together? If the pedal will depress but the shaft isn't moving, then the problem lies with the clutch arm-to-shaft connection (the roll pin). If the shaft is rotating but the fork isn't moving, then the problem lies with the pinned connection between the shaft and the fork. There just aren't that many components to this clutch system - it should be evident where the problem is by eliminating one connection after another.

You may need to use a dab of white paint (a white-out pen works nicely) on the clutch arm to shaft connection to detect whether or not both parts are moving in perfect conjunction. If you can get adequate light into the area, a fine scribe mark across the end of the shaft and arm will do it also. Inside the clutch housing it gets way more difficult to see what is happening and you may have to get creative as to making some sort of a telltale to see what's going on - or not going on, as the case may be. It's hard, for example, to see a round shaft move unless there's a distinct spot on it you can watch. Particularly when the total movement of the shaft is only a few degrees, not half a revolution. That's why so many guys have a broken roll pin on the clutch arm-to-shaft connection but think the problem is elsewhere - the shaft may move some, but a wallowed out hole will prevent it from moving enough to release the clutch fully. It takes those telltales to let you know for sure what's happening; the naked eye just really isn't up to the task in most cases. That's particularly true for us old geezers who wear trifocals! :confused2:

 

[chris85]

Guys, I really appreciate all the help and suggestions and I can't thank you all enough for the patients you all are having with me and my troubles. To add to the issues I just went to start it up to see if any of the adjustments made a difference and now it won't start...Ugggg!
It sounded like the battery had been drained and would not crank fast so I charged it up and it's now doing the same thing, sounds like it is cranking under a load. Could I have done something in my adjustments that would have bound up the flywheel? I don't detect any significant drag when I spin the clutch from when I started to now.

 

[greg_g]

OK, so I made all the adjustments, as you can see from my new photos the gaps are set now. The release bearing moves back and forth smoothly with a screwdriver but the shaft #17 and Fork still do not budge.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm under the impression that you already replaced the pins on the outside clutch arm. Either way, nothing you did with your adjusting was responsible, but it should be pretty clear that the roll pin (or pins) holding the fork to the inside shaft are DOA. If it's doing it now, it was doing it before you put the first wrench on it. No way to avoid splitting the tractor now.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Could I have done something in my adjustments that would have bound up the flywheel?.

Possible, not likely. Are you experiencing this drag with the clutch in and the gear shift in gear? Or the clutch out and the gear shift in neutral? If the tranny is in neutral, the clutch spins freely with the flywheel - regardless if it's adjusted properly or not. But if the tranny is in neutral AND your foot is depressing the clutch pedal all the way AND it spins slow, we'll have to revisit the issue.

Do you use the compression release to aid in cold starts?

//greg//

 

[biggerten]

Chris,

I'm not meaning to step in when you are getting help, but if I recall you removed the loader. Do you have the hoses coupled together? If not, you could be dead heading the hydraulic pump.

With that mentioned, I'll crawl back into the shadows.

Tom

 

[chris85]

Chris,

I'm not meaning to step in when you are getting help, but if I recall you removed the loader. Do you have the hoses coupled together? If not, you could be dead heading the hydraulic pump.

With that mentioned, I'll crawl back into the shadows.

Tom

Tom you are the winner...I didnt connect them after I droped the FEL. Guess the day is not lost as as soon as they were connected it turned over fine.

 

[greg_g]

if I recall you removed the loader. Do you have the hoses coupled together?

Good catch Tom!! I sometimes assume folks have done the normal stuff, and I subsequently overlook the obvious.

//greg//

 

[chris85]

Good catch Tom!! I sometimes assume folks have done the normal stuff, and I subsequently overlook the obvious.

//greg//

If anything I am not normal.... )

So thank you all for the help..