Kioti Hydraulics - What do I need for a grapple and hydraulic top link?

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I've decided to buy the Kioti DK50SE HST Cab. I know how I want it equipped EXCEPT that I'm a hydraulics idiot, and I want to make sure I order it right.

It comes with one set of rear remotes. I'm gonna have them add another set. I want to eventually put a hydraulic top-link on it, which will use one set of remotes.

And I want a grapple, although I'll probably just use one of the rear hydraulic remotes and run the lines to the front and use that lever to open and close the grapple, instead of a true third function. That will use the other set of remotes.

So, what kind of hydraulic remotes are required for these two uses? Kubota calls theirs "Double Acting" or "Float-Detent", but that means nothing to me. The ones we used on the farm years ago were used to raise and lower pull type plows, and that's all I've ever used. Those didn't have a detent.

 

[grsthegreat]

I've decided to buy the Kioti DK50SE HST Cab. I know how I want it equipped EXCEPT that I'm a hydraulics idiot, and I want to make sure I order it right.

It comes with one set of rear remotes. I'm gonna have them add another set. I want to eventually put a hydraulic top-link on it, which will use one set of remotes.

And I want a grapple, although I'll probably just use one of the rear hydraulic remotes and run the lines to the front and use that lever to open and close the grapple, instead of a true third function. That will use the other set of remotes.

So, what kind of hydraulic remotes are required for these two uses? Kubota calls theirs "Double Acting" or "Float-Detent", but that means nothing to me. The ones we used on the farm years ago were used to raise and lower pull type plows, and that's all I've ever used. Those didn't have a detent.

you get one standard detent style remote from factory. I added a second and had them install a non detent style... You can remove the detents if you dont want any.

I use the detent valve to operate my 3 point log splitter, as the detent holds the valve open so it is continually operating and running fluids thru the lines so i can operate the splitter using the valve on the splitter.

I use the non detent valve to operate my front loader mounted snow plow in the winter. You dont want detents for this cause you only want it to move when you push or pull the valve, and you dont want it to lock in one position. I also chose to have hoses piped to the front instead of the true 3rd function cause im a cheap SOB...and i dont use it too often.

In your case, both top and tilt and grapple DO NOT require the detent valves. If your going to add a 3nd set of rear remotes, just make it a non detent valve.This would operate either of your additions....but not at same time

If you have no need for a locking valve (log splitter or ??) just have the dealer pop the ball bearings out.

 

[murphy1244]

The Kioti Won't have the float action. What you want is both remotes with the detents removed so the lever will return to neutral. The remote closest to the FEL will be your grapple remote make a extention to bring the handle just below the FEL hanldle.Ggrsthegreat made the extension for me.

 

[grsthegreat]

also, you can easily make extensions for those handles....i did and love them. Way easier to control while moving the bucket control. The 4 button remote is used to control the front mounted snowblower in winter

 

[k0ua]

also, you can easily make extensions for those handles....i did and love them. Way easier to control while moving the bucket control. The 4 button remote is used to control the front mounted snowblower in winterView attachment 332851View attachment 332852View attachment 332853

Can you explain how you made the extension? How does the knob come off? Just pull real hard? Is the extension a press fit? or are there threads involved? Thanks in advance.

James K0UA

 

[grsthegreat]

Can you explain how you made the extension? How does the knob come off? Just pull real hard? Is the extension a press fit? or are there threads involved? Thanks in advance.

James K0UA

the rubber knob simply slips off. I used a solid rod the same thickness as the original and a piece of hollow tube that fits over the knob with minor widening with a drill bit. i welded one side and the other simply slips over the original.

I can get the dimensions of the metal later today and post them. Whole thing takes about 20 minutes to manufacture. It slips on and off in seconds.

 

[k0ua]

the rubber knob simply slips off. I used a solid rod the same thickness as the original and a piece of hollow tube that fits over the knob with minor widening with a drill bit. i welded one side and the other simply slips over the original.

I can get the dimensions of the metal later today and post them. Whole thing takes about 20 minutes to manufacture. It slips on and off in seconds.

I appreciate it, thanks

James K0UA

 

[murphy1244]

the rubber knob simply slips off. I used a solid rod the same thickness as the original and a piece of hollow tube that fits over the knob with minor widening with a drill bit. i welded one side and the other simply slips over the original.

I can get the dimensions of the metal later today and post them. Whole thing takes about 20 minutes to manufacture. It slips on and off in seconds.

And make it a tad longer so you can cut to fit. Thanks again grs!

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

grsthegreat, that's a really cool idea. I'll have to give that a whirl once I get my tractor.

Of course, I'll have to go to Home Depot and look for the right size tubing. One of the things I miss about being on the farm when I was a kid was that my dad kept everything. He could always find something that would fit or he could make it fit.

 

[grsthegreat]

ok, heres the dimensions


solid rod is 3/8" steel stock, solid. I got mine from Home depot item # 48930

the hollow rod used to make the connector is 1/2" outer dimension with 1/16" thick wall. leaving the inside just shy of 3/8" (.375). Home Depot part # 35170.
I had to run mine thru drill press to make it a scosch bigger opening so it would readily slip over the tractors shaft without scarring the paint. Then i tack welded the pieces together after pushing the connector sleeve 1/2 way onto the solid shaft.

This unit can now slip on and off as i need it.