Kioti parking brake failure...has this happened to you?

[dfkrug]

Last week, I noticed that my parking brake would no longer stay in one of the 2 positions I use.
The more-on position, which I use on slopes, was kaput. The other position, which I use on
level ground (not that I have much) still worked.

Anyway, the PB is very important, so I popped off the lever, and here it is. One tooth totally
gone, and another worn down. Just under 400 hr on my 2005 CK30H.

Has this happened to anyone else?

I have repaired it already, and will post shortly.

 

[k0ua]

Last week, I noticed that my parking brake would no longer stay in one of the 2 positions I use.
The more-on position, which I use on slopes, was kaput. The other position, which I use on
level ground (not that I have much) still worked.

Anyway, the PB is very important, so I popped off the lever, and here it is. One tooth totally
gone, and another worn down. Just under 400 hr on my 2005 CK30H.

Has this happened to anyone else?

I have repaired it already, and will post shortly.

Well that sucketh. Are you going to TIG it up? No problems with my DK so far, but only 150hrs.. and yes the brake is pretty important around here.. (Branson hills)

James K0UA

 

[Kiotikarl]

Yeah that sucks:thumbsdown: Parking brake kind of important. My 2010 CK30 gear nearing 460hrs, only issue with the brakes is that they stay put every time you use them, have to even pull the pedals back.

 

[Mark Headley]

Looks like a good place for preventive greasing...

 

[Gittyup]

My 2006, 560 hours hasn't shown any issues yet. Mine is gear. So, neutral is nearly free wheeling. On steep grades I never just trust the brake. I always chock a wheel if getting off.

 

[dfkrug]

Here is the part of the brake lever that locks into the teeth of the parking lock
lever. You can see the notch worn into it. The lock lever is only 1/8" mild
steel and hence the 1/8" wide worn spot (arrow). Getting the brake mechanism
out would be a bear, so my fix will not include this worn area.

 

[dfkrug]

Well, I could just go out and buy a new lock lever, but I like to improve things.

Here is the plan: cut out a section of the lever and weld in a chunk of steel
3/8" wide. Then I can cut new slots that are 3x wider than the original.

Just a MIG welder; no TIG.

 

[dfkrug]

Here is the result.

I cut the kerfs at the same angle as the original slots, using the one remaining
slot as a guide.

It did take some tweaking to get the slots wide enough. I have 5 different sizes
of abrasive blades in various tools, from about 1/32" (Dremel-type tool) to about
1/8" (14" cutoff wheel). I ended up using a 1/16" 4-inch cutoff wheel in an
angle grinder, and adjusting the slots with a 7" cutoff wheel in a circular saw.

After a few test fits and more grinding, I burnished the slots on a large wire
wheel, applied a bit of paint, then installed it.

Works well. The hardest part of this repair is getting in there and removing/installing
the lever. The micro-switch arm is easy to foul up, too.

This type of brake lock is used on other tractors I have owned, and none have
failed like this, even with thousands of hours on them. I suspect most PBs were
not used as much as I use mine.

 

[k0ua]

Looks good, innovative idea, and way better than new.. :thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[creekbend]

Innovative idea.:thumbsup: