Rock Crawler
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2017
- Messages
- 2,210
- Location
- Pittsburgh, Pa.
- Tractor
- 2021 Kubota L3560 HSTC, 2011 Craftsman Excellerator GT (680hrs), 2018 Husqvarna TS354XD, 2017 Husqvarna HU800AWD, 2019 Kawasaki Mule Pro DX (Yanmar)
The question... I saw no mention of an HST screen like what my old BX25D had in the rear axle hydraulic system. Does the spin on suction filter replace that screen, or is the screen there and eluding me?
What I did:
Yesterday I was at 48.7 hours, so I pulled the tractor into the shop and did a 100% fluids/filters change for the 50 hour service.
I started with draining engine oil from both oil pan sumps, replaced the engine filter and re-filled with Kubota recommended oil. Wrote the date and hours on the oil filter. I believe it was a 18mm socket for the 2 sump bolts.
Next, I drained the front axle, the drain plugs are on each outer/lower/rear side of the portal axle, it is actually not a metric bolt. It is a 9/16" socket or wrench to fit this. You'll need almost 4 quarts to re-fill. You fill, then go do something else and re-check it in 15 min or so and add more. It is claimed as 3.7 quarts.
Then I moved to the fuel filter. Pinch the fuel line (it has a steel spring like covering, pull the spring back and pinch with vice grips or line clamp), the plastic body unscrews by hand and you have to use a seal pick or similar to reach into the center of the filter and force it up and out. It is in tight, and it can not be spun. Just work at it, it will slowly walk up and out. Replace the filter and drop 2 new O-rings on, then screw the clear housing back onto the base. Un-clamp your fuel line and you are all set.
Next, go underneath with 2 large pans and loosen the 2 HST (suction and pressure) filters and let them drain, you will not get much fluid out yet, but do this and then hand snug them up. Then at the low point of the rear axle you will find two "lobes" that wrap around your draw bar bracket. On the outside of each lobe is a single 10mm drain bolt. Crack one loose and fill the pan and do a quick drain pan swap. Your expecting 4.5 gallons. Once you get the one done, you just have a half gallon or so in the other lobe, so remove that 10mm and get that drained.
Now lube the rubber seals on your new filters, write the date/hours on them, and install them snug. Make sure you replaced the 10mm drain bolts and then grab your funnel and fill the rear axle with fresh love.
Pull your outer air filter and blow it from inside to outside to blow out any debris, mine was still essentially like new.
Pull your radiator screen up and inspect, blow the screen and radiator clean if you have accumulated and debris. Mine was still clean and new looking so no air blowing for me this time.
Lay under the machine and inspect, look at bolts for obvious signs of movement such as cracked or displaced paint. Look for any indications of fluid leaks at casting mating surfaces. Look at everything, this is a great time to perform a slow visual inspection of any indicators that you can get in front of.
Toss your torque wrench on the wheel lug nuts and click it off on each one. None should move. But check.
Grab a 1/2" ratchet and some sockets and go give a pull on your loader/backhoe sub frame bolts. Again, none should move, but you may find some that do. Mine were all good and screamed tight.
Save the receipt for the fluids and filters (around $225 in 2018) for everything you just did. Write the date and engine hours on that invoice and save it or scan it to your Google drive.
This will take maybe 2 hours, 3 hours if you poke around a lot like I did. Now your new Kubota is off to a great start! And you have 150 hours to go before you repeat the entire procedure again. After that 200 hours, I will fall back to the recommended service schedule where 100% changes are not required that often. But the 50 hour and the 200 hour deserve to get the full gauntlet!
What I did:
Yesterday I was at 48.7 hours, so I pulled the tractor into the shop and did a 100% fluids/filters change for the 50 hour service.
I started with draining engine oil from both oil pan sumps, replaced the engine filter and re-filled with Kubota recommended oil. Wrote the date and hours on the oil filter. I believe it was a 18mm socket for the 2 sump bolts.
Next, I drained the front axle, the drain plugs are on each outer/lower/rear side of the portal axle, it is actually not a metric bolt. It is a 9/16" socket or wrench to fit this. You'll need almost 4 quarts to re-fill. You fill, then go do something else and re-check it in 15 min or so and add more. It is claimed as 3.7 quarts.
Then I moved to the fuel filter. Pinch the fuel line (it has a steel spring like covering, pull the spring back and pinch with vice grips or line clamp), the plastic body unscrews by hand and you have to use a seal pick or similar to reach into the center of the filter and force it up and out. It is in tight, and it can not be spun. Just work at it, it will slowly walk up and out. Replace the filter and drop 2 new O-rings on, then screw the clear housing back onto the base. Un-clamp your fuel line and you are all set.
Next, go underneath with 2 large pans and loosen the 2 HST (suction and pressure) filters and let them drain, you will not get much fluid out yet, but do this and then hand snug them up. Then at the low point of the rear axle you will find two "lobes" that wrap around your draw bar bracket. On the outside of each lobe is a single 10mm drain bolt. Crack one loose and fill the pan and do a quick drain pan swap. Your expecting 4.5 gallons. Once you get the one done, you just have a half gallon or so in the other lobe, so remove that 10mm and get that drained.
Now lube the rubber seals on your new filters, write the date/hours on them, and install them snug. Make sure you replaced the 10mm drain bolts and then grab your funnel and fill the rear axle with fresh love.
Pull your outer air filter and blow it from inside to outside to blow out any debris, mine was still essentially like new.
Pull your radiator screen up and inspect, blow the screen and radiator clean if you have accumulated and debris. Mine was still clean and new looking so no air blowing for me this time.
Lay under the machine and inspect, look at bolts for obvious signs of movement such as cracked or displaced paint. Look for any indications of fluid leaks at casting mating surfaces. Look at everything, this is a great time to perform a slow visual inspection of any indicators that you can get in front of.
Toss your torque wrench on the wheel lug nuts and click it off on each one. None should move. But check.
Grab a 1/2" ratchet and some sockets and go give a pull on your loader/backhoe sub frame bolts. Again, none should move, but you may find some that do. Mine were all good and screamed tight.
Save the receipt for the fluids and filters (around $225 in 2018) for everything you just did. Write the date and engine hours on that invoice and save it or scan it to your Google drive.
This will take maybe 2 hours, 3 hours if you poke around a lot like I did. Now your new Kubota is off to a great start! And you have 150 hours to go before you repeat the entire procedure again. After that 200 hours, I will fall back to the recommended service schedule where 100% changes are not required that often. But the 50 hour and the 200 hour deserve to get the full gauntlet!
