Kubota M7040 LED Worklight Addition

[Rancher Ed]

This project will greatly benefit from the information in these three previous threads, all started by sixdogs:
"Worklights added to my Kubota M7040" https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/372671-worklights-added-my-kubota-m7040.html?highlight=M7040+Lights
"Rear work light problem on M7040---left side only." https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/372576-rear-work-light-problem-m7040.html?highlight=M7040+Lights
And "Can't find rear worklight wires for Kubota M tractor--picture" https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/369483-cant-find-rear-worklight-wires.html?highlight=M7040+Lights

My father has a Kubota M7040 and increasing has to use if after dark. This is mainly for putting out large round bales but also some occasional dirt work and other general farm chores. The tractor is an open station but has a Kubota fiberglass canopy. The canopy has two approximately 1" square tubes running forward from the ROPS supporting it which I plan to use to mount the lights. The tractor has one rear work light mounted on the left fender, and from the above linked threads I know there should be a wire under the right fender I can use to power the new lights. I plan to use an inline switch mounted somewhere on the right fender and then run a wire up the ROPS and to the new lights.

I will be doing the majority of the wiring/setup and then shipping the lights and wiring harness to my father for instillation. As a result this will all be done based on pictures and measurements. I know there are several members on here with M7040s and hope you will be able to help with some of my questions. I will take pictures of my progress and the final instillation to hopefully help anyone else looking to add some additional lighting.

Questions:
1. Does anyone have a picture showing the pigtail on the right side of an M7040? I assume I will need a short length of wire to run from the pigtail to my switch before running from the switch to the lights.
2. Does the ROPS have holes near the base and at the top I could run the wire though, or will the wire need to run along the outside of the ROPS?
3. I am working on getting measurements for the width of the ROPS and the length of the support bars, but if someone has a similar canopy and knows these measurements that would be very helpful.

Attached are a couple general picture of the tractor and a picture showing the canopy and support bars. I will update with pictures as I go and then of the final instillation. EDIT: I cannot get the picture with the large square bale to upload right-side up... This picture was taken right before placing the bale in a feeder - the bales are carried lower when traveling.

 

[Rancher Ed]

I plan to use a round 12VDC switch rated at 20amps like the one pictured (20mm mounting hole, snap-in design). Attached are two pictures of the controls and fender on the right side of the tractor. The second picture shows my tentative planned location for the light switch. I believe the switch would be reasonably protected in this location, the wires will be clear of both the 3-point hitch and the rear remote controls, and installation should be easy.

Any downsides to this spot or suggestions for a better switch mounting location?

 

[Dave M7040]

My comment has nothing to do with your question and if you already know about this feature on your loader great.

I notice you are using the boom cylinder fulcrum position "A" which is for greater lift height but will lift less weight.

Dave M7040

 

[Rancher Ed]

My comment has nothing to do with your question and if you already know about this feature on your loader great.

I notice you are using the boom cylinder fulcrum position "A" which is for greater lift height but will lift less weight.

Dave M7040

Dave,
You are correct about the boom position we are using. The primary use for the tractor is handling round bales and using pallet forks to access a storage loft, both applications where we utilize its maximum lift height. On a couple occasions when doing serious dirt work or moving a 3,000 lbs pallet of wood pellets we switched to the power position but generally keep it set for height.

I believe you have a cab model, but do you have any feedback on my proposed switch location?


***** Note for myself/anyone else with this canopy *****
The metal bars supporting the canopy are 48" long and the flat brackets bolted to the sides of the ROPs are 32 inches apart.

 

[ovrszd]

I run my FEL on the height position all the time. Reduces stress on the loader frame.

 

[Rancher Ed]

Richard,
Any input on my proposed switch location? Your M9540 is pretty similar and also an open station model.

The lights and switch were delivered yesterday so hopefully I can get started on the wiring later this week.

 

[ovrszd]

Looks like a good location to me. Hopefully the switch is an "all weather" switch so water won't hurt it?

 

[sixdogs]

I plan to use a round 12VDC switch rated at 20amps like the one pictured (20mm mounting hole, snap-in design). Attached are two pictures of the controls and fender on the right side of the tractor. The second picture shows my tentative planned location for the light switch. I believe the switch would be reasonably protected in this location, the wires will be clear of both the 3-point hitch and the rear remote controls, and installation should be easy.

Any downsides to this spot or suggestions for a better switch mounting location?

You might also be able to put the switch right in the light itself. I did that with mine, and have posted pics here but have been unable to find them. It saved me from running lots of wires and made life easier.

 

[oosik]

Ed - I tried responding to your PM - no joy. I think it was because I tried to attach these two pics. So, I'll do it right here. My pigtail was never under the fender. It was coiled, nylon wire-tied and tucked up under the back of the seat. It's a single hot lead. See it coming out from under the seat. It has a small diameter "corrugated" sheath protecting it( vertical pic ). The metal "hoop" over the turn signal provides the ground for the rear light. The switch is a small, chrome double throw - horizontal pic. Occasionally the chrome switch will get a tad of corrosion. Flip the switch up/down a few times and it's back to working.
View attachment 631965View attachment 631966

 

[Rancher Ed]

Looks like a good location to me. Hopefully the switch is an "all weather" switch so water won't hurt it?

Correct, it is "waterproof" and marketed for boating, so whatever rain gets on it should be fine.

You might also be able to put the switch right in the light itself. I did that with mine, and have posted pics here but have been unable to find them. It saved me from running lots of wires and made life easier.

sixdogs,
Your threads are linked at the beginning of this thread and have been very helpful in my planning. My project is slightly different in that I am powering front facing ROPS/Canopy mounted lights from the "rear worklight" pigtail. I am putting the switch in the right fender area to minimize the additional wiring required. The wire will then run up the ROPS, split, and run forward along each support bar to power the work lights.

Attached is a crude photo-shop showing what it should look like when finished.