L3240 won't start when cold... Help!

[bferris01]

HI,

Thanks for the help.

I have a 2010 L3240-HST-3 and this is the first issue I have had with it and need some help. So when the temp's dropped this season it began to give me issues with starting in the cold. I did some internet search and found some starting ideas to check but now I am stumped. I will say when the outside temps are not cold it starts and runs fine, I have tested the battery and it is fine. So here is the situation when temps are down:

-Try to start by cycling the glow plugs 2-3 times and it cranks over but won't start, get a white-ish smoke from the exhaust
-pulled the dash and there are 2 relays behind the instrument panel, 2- identical relays. I pulled the 1st one to look at it and there was some discoloration on the spade, so I replaced it with an autozone relay and when that didn't work bought a OEM Kubota relay and same result, no start white -ish smoke
-pulled all the fuses in the fuse box down by the clutch petal, and that all look good.....

Really needed the tractor to water the animals so I took a wire and jumped the relay and it started right up with only 1 cycle of the glow plugs and ran fine, it was turned off after running for 10-15 mins and then started right back up no problems a few times until done for the day.

I can deal with jumping the relay for a little while but the wife will not and needs to use the tractor when I am at work for 48hr at a time.

So I am stuck, it will be a major pain in the A$% to have to arrange to get it to the dealer and was hoping someone might have some experience or thoughts on something else to check.

Stay safe and warm and thanks for any thoughts.

(This is also posted in the Kubota thread)

 

[nybirdman]

I know you think it is electrical but sounds like "summer fuel" problem.

 

[Gordon Gould]

It sounds like your glow plug timer module may not be pulling in the relay if you jump it and have normal starting. That is assuming you have a glow plug controller/timer like both my Kubotas do. If you don't then what ever drives the relay should be checked. Put a meter on the coil to see what is or isn't happening.

gg

 

[Coyote machine]

Use a meter, VOM, to determine if the glow plugs are receiving voltage, and what the voltage is when the key is turned to the glow plug position. And, does your tractor have a dash light to indicate when the circuit is energized? If so, is the light lighting withOUT jumping the relay?
What voltage is present at the glow plugs when you jump the relay? When you do that is the dash light lit?
If you answer the Q's above it will help us help you get back on track.
Also what temps are you talking about, and do you use winterized fuel this time of year?
Do you have a block heater? If you do and can put it on a timer to come on a few hours before you plan to start the tractor that should get you by until the actual issue is solved....

 

[bferris01]

It sounds like your glow plug timer module may not be pulling in the relay if you jump it and have normal starting. That is assuming you have a glow plug controller/timer like both my Kubotas do. If you don't then what ever drives the relay should be checked. Put a meter on the coil to see what is or isn't happening.

gg

Gordon,
I have 2 glow plug relays, I am being told the controller/timer is build in the instrument cluster. I have 12 volt power at terminal 1 all the time and when the key is on I have 12 volt at terminal 3

When I jump the relay I have 12 volt at the bus bar/glow plug wire. I have 2 OEM relays and 1 auto zone that I have tested and all are working.

 

[bferris01]

That could indicate a poor connection problem. The relay was OK, but how about the terminal that fits over the spade and the crimp on that connector? You should also put a meter on the glow plug buss and measure its voltage. I would also test each glow plug. When you use the key switch, there is usually a voltage drop in the wiring that is accounted for in the design. When you used the jumper wire, there was probably a higher voltage on the glow plug buss that would be enough to compensate for an open glow plug.

K7LN,

I tested each glow plug and get resistance of .8 on each

 

[bferris01]

Use a meter, VOM, to determine if the glow plugs are receiving voltage, and what the voltage is when the key is turned to the glow plug position. And, does your tractor have a dash light to indicate when the circuit is energized? If so, is the light lighting withOUT jumping the relay?
What voltage is present at the glow plugs when you jump the relay? When you do that is the dash light lit?
If you answer the Q's above it will help us help you get back on track.
Also what temps are you talking about, and do you use winterized fuel this time of year?
Do you have a block heater? If you do and can put it on a timer to come on a few hours before you plan to start the tractor that should get you by until the actual issue is solved....

Sir,

I do have a glow light indicator on the dash that appears to be working correctly, with the jumper wire and without just the key on.

No block heater, outside temps are 25-35 degrees

 

[Coyote machine]

Sir,

I do have a glow light indicator on the dash that appears to be working correctly, with the jumper wire and without just the key on.

No block heater, outside temps are 25-35 degrees

OP, not sure what you're saying where I underlined and set in bold type?

Your relay does not seem to be the problem from what I've read- it seems the part of the controller that activates what you are doing with your 'jumper wire' at the relay is what is NOT functioning. Does the controller portion of the dash cluster allow the part, (controller) to be replaced separate from the entire cluster?

 

[bferris01]

OK, you've checked the glow plugs. How about the other part of my statement?

Sorry, I missed that part, but yes I tested it and get same 12 volt.

 

[bferris01]

OP, not sure what you're saying where I underlined and set in bold type?

Your relay does not seem to be the problem from what I've read- it seems the part of the controller that activates what you are doing with your 'jumper wire' at the relay is what is NOT functioning. Does the controller portion of the dash cluster allow the part, (controller) to be replaced separate from the entire cluster?

HI, Coyote,

Sorry for the confusion. All I meant to say was the glow plug indicator on the dash is working normally. When I turn the key to the on/glow plug position it works both with the jumper wire in the relay and without it.


No it is the entire cluster

 

[bferris01]

Sorry for the delay again.

I did have a second to trouble shoot some more and found, when I ran another ground to the rely, it clicked, activated and was able to start in the cold like normal. So there is something a miss on the ground side that I need to track down.

Only has a short time before back to work, sorry this is becoming a long post.

 

[bferris01]

I am still tracing the ground no luck yet. I have run another ground to the relay and it works fine now until I can find the main cause and the wife will now be able to run it when I am working.

Thanks again everyone and have a happy and safe Christmas and New Year!

 

[Gordon Gould]

I am still tracing the ground no luck yet. I have run another ground to the relay and it works fine now until I can find the main cause and the wife will now be able to run it when I am working.

Thanks again everyone and have a happy and safe Christmas and New Year!

Same to you and everyone. Glad you have a handle on it now and life is easier !! I was wondering how you were doing. It is always good to hear how things turn out.

gg

 

[crazyal]

Merry Christmas to you. You can always get a normally open momentary push button switch. Connect the ground wire up from the relay to one side and then the other side of the switch to ground. Just hold the button in until the light goes out on the dash. When you release the button the glow plugs will shut off. Then in spring/ summer you can try to find the problem.

 

[mjw357]

Sounds like you may have an eight-year-old battery problem.

 

[plumbstraight]

heat the intake air with a hand torch. Some warm air coming into the engine will most likely fire it. If you have a compression release to turn the engine over while bring warm air into it and then giving it compression it will be even better.