L3430 service advice

[Tibbits]

I bought a used L3430 GST with Woods 1012 loader about 2 weeks ago. It's in pretty good shape at 120 hours. I haven't done much hard work with it because I want to change all fluids and filters before pushing too hard. The manual should arrive in the mail before the weekend, which is when I plan to do the service. Here's what I have lined up, I'd appreciate any feedback on what I may be missing or don't really need to do:

Oil and filter, fuel filter, outer air filter only, hyd fluid and filter. I'd like to use UDT as it's not too cold of a climate (central NC) and winter use is rare. I also have a BX1500 that I use UDT and prefer to use the same grade for simplicity. Rotella 15W in the engine. Hoses and belts look OK. I think it's about a 2007. I'm hoping to skip a rad flush. And skip the front axle fluid change? Also, one of the hyd lines above the bucket has a small 1/2" nick - doesn't seem to reach much of the braiding, but should I replace it?

I'll check the manual for other normal maint...i think there is a clutch adjsutment, etc. My service list so far (without the manual) is a testimate to the value of TBN. I would appreciate any further advice on service or technique that keeps the shop floor clean!

 

[TripleR]

Check your wheel bolt torque as well as fan belt tension, can't think of anything else.

 

[Tibbits]

Thanks TripleR. Do I have to have a torque wrench for that or can I just max my wrench? I think I'll check every bolt for tightness....I should have some time while waiting for fluids to drain. Whew! Just picked up the service parts... $351. 12.5 gallons of SUDT hurts! The dealer pricing was in-line with Messisks...hope I didn't get taken.

 

[TripleR]

I use a torque wrench, but I am sure a lot of people don't.

 

[Happyman]

I would go ahead and drain the front axle while you are at it. If it's like my L3940, it's a simple 2 bolt removal to drain and fill. You can go with UDT/SUDT or 85w-90 axle lube. The factory put SUDT in mine but I switched to gear lube.

 

[number two]

No need to flush the cooling system,but the coolant should be renewed every two years.Drain and refill with regular green antifreeze and distilled water,50/50 ratio,or buy premixed coolant with deionized water.Cheap,$10-$15. Good Luck!

 

[Grandad4]

Some other things to check, if only because it's a 3year old tractor with only 120 hrs:

Tire pressures.
Grease zerks... on the tractor there are just a few (front axle, 3pt linkages); but on the loader there are a bunch.
Battery terminals
Need to clean/lube linkages for 3pt, pto, range selector, etc.?
While you have your torque wrench out... or even better, if you have a 1/2 inch air impact wrench... check that the FEL brackets are still tight to the tractor. They can work loose over time... typically after several hundred hours... but this tractor is new to you, so it's worth checking that the FEL was installed securely.

 

[Tibbits]

Thanks number two Grandad. Some good news on the tires - I found out last night they are liquid filled. Not sure with what, but I'm happy to have the permanent ballast. Gonna be a busy weekend, at least the weather will be bearable copmpared to last weekend. My biggest concern with this tractor is the fact that the hyd fluid has not been changed and it's at 118 hours. Hopefully the filter handled it and it had SUDT from the factory.

 

[beppington]

Not quite apples-to-apples, & I'm not "recommending" it, but the hydro fluid in my Sears Craftsman 42" riding mower has never been changed, or even topped off. And it stills operates perfectly.

 

[Chilly807]

I wouldn't worry too much about the hydraulic fluid not being changed, Kubota now recommends up to 400 hours before change in many of their models. I would change it now, though. Then you know it's been done and the clock starts from now.

Sean