L3700SU Loader and wheel weight question

logdog · Dec 2, 2011

Hello all. I have a L3700su i bought a little over a year and 100 hours ago. When I bought it, it was perfect for us (10 Acres and a couple of horses). A few months ago I bought some clamp on pallet forks to pick up a box we fill with manure and unload pallets. The problem i am running into is that the forks hold the load so far away from the bucket that the loader wont even pick up a 1000 pound skid of bedding pellets and the rear wheels get really light. The tractor is just about perfect size for us because it fits in our woods well, allows movement around it in the barn, and my wife is comfortable on it. So we dont really want to go with a bigger tractor. The tires are loaded with rimguard. I leave a blade on the back in the winter for snow which helps with the ballast but we dont like leaving it on year round because the blade gets in the way in the barn. I think that about covers the background info.

For weight i am thinking of getting the three sets of wheel weights Kubota allows. I know weight in the rear is best but as I said it gets in the way alot. I think they only end up being like 360 pounds or so. Would this be enough help to fool with?

For the loader we have talked about buying the QA attachment from the dealer and a set of forks. I have no idea what this costs but i have to imagine its cheaper than a new tractor

Does anybody have experience with lifting a 1000 pounds on a pallet. I image the leverage of holding the weight so far out from the loader is my problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

teg · Dec 2, 2011

A couple of people have talked about lifting 1000# bales of hay with this tractor series, so yes, getting the QA and pallet forks is the way to go...

As for wheel weights, I would highly NOT recommend them, they are expensive and you really need to add weight *behind* the rear wheels to reduce the weight on the front axle (see manual - think Counter Balance).

There are several examples of smaller / cheaper weight boxes on TBN. Basically, a 55 gallon drum filled with concrete. It's doesn't hang out too far.

The other thing that might help, look at this link: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...tions-add-extra-spools-l2800.html#post2141826 ...about checking and bumping up the PSI of your system. In my case, I was lucky and only had to tighten the nut to gain 200# in lift.

logdog · Dec 2, 2011

Thanks for the feedback. Does anybody have an idea what it cost to swap out a pin on bucket for a QA? It seems like it might be the solution. I should break out the old math book and try and figure out the difference between a QA and clamp on forks when lifting 1000 lbs

k0ua · Dec 2, 2011

Been there done that, have the L3400HST and a T shirt. You need a ballast/box or barrel like mine and yes you need the SSQA pin on adaptor and a new bucket.. about $1000 from a dealer in Berryville Ar. Then you can Convert your old bucket to SSQA and you will have 2 like me! OR.. you can convert the bucket and not buy the new bucket and save about 500 bucks.

here are my threads with photos. of the entire bucket conversion ordeal. Yes I would do it again. and I could do a lot better and easier next time.. and making the Ballast barrel was cheap and easy, and sticks out past the ends of the 3pt ball ends maybe 20 inches.. Not a problem at all. As for the forks, the difference is day and night from using bucket forks vs. using SSQA pallet forks, you can see so much better, and it brings the load much closer to the tractor, so your lift ability is better. Here are the links:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/208653-so-you-think-converting-pin.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/199329-look-what-i-built-today.html

Now the photo's show a sprayer on the back of the Ballast barrel, but also shows the barrel pretty well. I put a 2 inch receiver on the back of the barrel so I could put other things on it and as you can see it is also good to carry your tools, and has some hooks for hanging a bucket on or anything you want. It weighs about 750 lbs and there is plenty of room in the top for chains, you lunch, a chain saw... etc. Good Luck.

James K0UA

Johnbro · Dec 3, 2011

logdog said:
Hello all. I have a L3700su i bought a little over a year and 100 hours ago. When I bought it, it was perfect for us (10 Acres and a couple of horses). A few months ago I bought some clamp on pallet forks to pick up a box we fill with manure and unload pallets. The problem i am running into is that the forks hold the load so far away from the bucket that the loader wont even pick up a 1000 pound skid of bedding pellets and the rear wheels get really light. The tractor is just about perfect size for us because it fits in our woods well, allows movement around it in the barn, and my wife is comfortable on it. So we dont really want to go with a bigger tractor. The tires are loaded with rimguard. I leave a blade on the back in the winter for snow which helps with the ballast but we dont like leaving it on year round because the blade gets in the way in the barn. I think that about covers the background info.

For weight i am thinking of getting the three sets of wheel weights Kubota allows. I know weight in the rear is best but as I said it gets in the way alot. I think they only end up being like 360 pounds or so. Would this be enough help to fool with?

For the loader we have talked about buying the QA attachment from the dealer and a set of forks. I have no idea what this costs but i have to imagine its cheaper than a new tractor Does anybody have experience with lifting a 1000 pounds on a pallet. I image the leverage of holding the weight so far out from the loader is my problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Highly recommend you fill your rear tires with the fluid of your choice and also make sure you have something heavy on the 3PH. I can handle a lot of weight on the pallet forks, but only if I've got a 900 lb box blade or a bush hog on the back to balance it out.

LD1 · Dec 3, 2011

teg said:
As for wheel weights, I would highly NOT recommend them, they are expensive and you really need to add weight *behind* the rear wheels to reduce the weight on the front axle (see manual - think Counter Balance).
.

I agree 100%

Johnbro said:
Highly recommend you fill your rear tires with the fluid of your choice and also make sure you have something heavy on the 3PH. I can handle a lot of weight on the pallet forks, but only if I've got a 900 lb box blade or a bush hog on the back to balance it out.

Re-read his post. He said his tires ARE loaded with rimguard.

OP: Adding wheel weights is NOT counter weight. Just ballast.
You really need counter weight as to NOT overload the front axle. Adding wheel weights only makes you put more weight on the front axle. Because the rear is able to stay down, means you can lift more before the rears rise up in the air. So in a sense, you being able to lift more, adds that much more weight to the front PLUS the weight of the wheel weights.

Counter weight on the 3PH, since it is BEHIND the rear axle, will actually relieve some of the weight carried by the front end.

You have got good suggestions so far. With the barrel of concrete, or heavy implement. A rear blade @ ~250-300lbs isnt nearly enough. You really need 800-1200lbs hanging off back there to balance usefulness of your loader and extending the life of the front axle. Sure, the wheel weights will probabally allow you to do what you want, but at the expense of your front end.

You will be better off AND money ahead to make a counterweight.

Just FYI, an 55 gallon barrel CLEAR full of concrete is ~7.5 cu ft of concrete. Or only 15 60lb bags. (~$35) + barrel and a little steel to hook it up. And will weigh ~1000lbs when done.