L5740 battery/starting issue

   #1  

Complete Turf Care

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My L5740 would not start because the battery was dead because a switch to an attachment was left on...or so I thought.
When I went to hook up my jumper cables so I could unload it off my trailer, the positive cable was loose. However, even after hooking up the jumper cables, I could not get ANY power in the cab.
I expected to get at least some power when I hooked the jumper to the positive terminal. What am I missing? Is there a fuse or relay that could be preventing all power beyond the battery?
 
   #2  

Roadworthy

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If the positive cable was loose there could be corrosion between the cable end and the battery terminal. Begin the troubleshooting process with a fully charged battery. Remove cables from battery then clean battery terminals and cable ends. Replace cables on battery, tightening securely. If you can move it it's not secure. Follow ground lead to frame. Clean and tighten. Check your system now. This is the point from which to begin troubleshooting.
 
   #3  

LD1

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To troubleshoot starting and charging system issues yourself, get a multimeter and get familiar with using it
 
   #4  

crashz

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Even with tight, clean connections, if the battery is completely dead or shorted you won't get power immediately. I'd pull the battery, put it on a charger overnight, clean the terminals and re-install. But keep in mind, when a battery gets drained all the way, it severely diminished its life.
 
   #5  

rScotty

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That's right. A good battery alone won't always have enough power to start the tractor if a completely dead battery is in the circuit.
Either get some charge into the dead battery or take it out of the circuit.
 
  
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#6  
OP
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Complete Turf Care

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Thanks for the suggestions. I didn't have time to work on it today, and will try some of the suggestions tomorrow. The tractor is still on my trailer. It rained today, so I didn't need it.
 
   #7  

David_Kb7uns

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On my L3130, it has a strap style battery post clamp, on the side opposite the side with the crimped on wire going to the starter there is a spade connector going to a small fuse box next to the battery that feeds the glow plugs, alternator and the dash. Have had problems with the terminal loosing connection with no start, glow plug and other issues and have had to rework it more than once. Check and see if that is a problem.
 
  
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#8  
OP
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No luck so far. We have cleaned all connections at the battery and checked all fuses in the cab and still no power to the dashboard. I called my dealer and talked to a mechanic and he said to check under the dash for rat problems. I'll try that next.
 
   #9  

BeezFun

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You haven't indicated if you've tested the battery. If it's good, go to the main fuse and see if there's 12v coming in and going out. If there is go to the fuse box and see of there is 12v on the buss. If there is, find a fuse that has 12v coming out and try the devices on that circuit.
 
   #10  

LD1

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You haven't indicated if you've tested the battery. If it's good, go to the main fuse and see if there's 12v coming in and going out. If there is go to the fuse box and see of there is 12v on the buss. If there is, find a fuse that has 12v coming out and try the devices on that circuit.
I don't think he has a meter
 
  
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#11  
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Complete Turf Care

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I don't think he has a meter
I have a meter and the battery shows 12 volts after I charged it for a couple of hours. Sorry I didn't mention that before.
I still get absolutely no power in the cab. My next step will be to remove the dashboard cover and check for rat damage.
 
   #12  

CH4Ohio

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Since the fusebox is right there visible next to the clutch pedal, why don't you check to see if there's voltage at the fuses before you start tearing into the dash panel?

Or maybe you already did??

If there's no voltage there, need to head back toward the battery and ground cable.
 
  
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#13  
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Since the fusebox is right there visible next to the clutch pedal, why don't you check to see if there's voltage at the fuses before you start tearing into the dash panel?

Or maybe you already did??

If there's no voltage there, need to head back toward the battery and ground cable.
Good idea. I will try that first. Thanks.
 
   #14  

CH4Ohio

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Good idea. I will try that first. Thanks.

Just a suggestion. Be sure you're absolutely sure that you have a good ground from battery to chassis before you drive yourself crazy. Check from the positive battery terminal to a bolt or bare metal on the frame to be sure the ground is good. Otherwise you're going to get 0 volts everywhere you check (unless you're jumping all the way back to the battery ground as you troubleshoot -- which wouldn't make sense . . . )
 
   #15  

LD1

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12v is a dead battery. you should be at 12.6-12.8v

What was the voltage before charging? Does your meter have an ohm setting? If battery is producing voltage, you clearly arent getting voltage to the tractor. Start tracing wires. Are you getting 12v to the starter? (thats usually where the positive cable goes). What about between starter and the chassis somewhere (to make sure ground connections are good). Start checking voltage at the fuses, the key switch, check safety circuits, etc
 
  
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#16  
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I have 12 volts to the starter. I don't seem to be getting power to the fuse box. The part shown below attaches to the battery and there are 2 connectors that plug into the bottom of it.
I do get power to the screw you see on top, and there is power to the left of the screw also, but no power to the bottom where the connectors plug in. It looks to be all intact, but still no power. I came into my office to call my local dealer to see if they have one in stock. But 2 dealers don't open until 8 am...

I'll go check continuity on this part now.

1633092302597.png
 
   #17  

CH4Ohio

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At least you have the problem isolated now.

What the heck is that box? Is there a fusible link in there or is it simply a junction box where the plastic modular plugs attach at the bottom to get power from the battery? I'm sure you wiggled things around and made sure the connections are all clean and secure.

I was under the hood of mine a couple days ago and tapped a new power wire right at the battery for a 3rd function valve. I don't recall seeing that box on mine. I'll look again.
 
   #18  

LD1

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Not sure what that box does....but I think you are on your way. Just keep tracing the power circuit. IF you are getting power to that box, but not beyond it I think you have found an issue. The question is whether its a connection issue or something that is repairable, or if replacement is the only answer
 
   #19  

CH4Ohio

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What about that main fuse block right behind the left headlight??? Sure everything there is OK?

There's a 60 amp Main fuse there and 3 others.

Here's the WSM troubleshooting page. Looks to me like you're still stuck right at the top section.

Hope you can read this. Let me know if not.

IMG_1850.jpg
IMG_1851.jpg
 
   #20  

dennis103

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The picture you showed is a fuseable link block. The 4 windows in the front should show a thin metal bar (the bar will be burned off if that part of the fuse is burned out). I "think" the power from the battery will go to the first big lug, then the other big lug will attach to the starter. The smaller ones will feed the rest of the system. Look for a burned out spot in one of the windows. Usually you can put a meter or light on each fuseable link to check rather its blown on not.
 
  
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#21  
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The picture I showed (fusable link) is the problem. I could not get continuity on the left side of it. We jumped the link by running some large wire from the battery terminal to the connector and we have power to the cab.

It turns over now, but still won't start. It's not getting fuel. I have ordered the part from Messicks, because none of my local dealers have ever sold that part.

Now we go to searching the fuel issue.
 
   #22  

BeezFun

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The fuel issue is probably because you don't have power to the fuel shutoff solenoid. Once you get that box replaced the fuel problem will probably be fixed too.
 
  
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#23  
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The fuel issue is probably because you don't have power to the fuel shutoff solenoid. Once you get that box replaced the fuel problem will probably be fixed too.
That's what I am thinking too. I'm going to leave it alone until I get the parts changed.
 
  
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#24  
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Success!! The part came in from Messicks around 1:30 today and we had it running by 2:00. It cranked right up once we got it all hooked up. There was no fuel issue.

I'm not sure what caused it to blow. We checked everything out on the attachment and everything is working properly.

The part I showed in post #16 is known as a 'slow blow fuse'. We also changed the positive battery connector, since it is connected to the 'slow blow fuse'. Total price for parts was about $55 and I had 'second day' shipping for about another $61, but it was worth the extra shipping because I have a job that pays $7000 for it tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help on this, and I hope this thread will help someone else in the future.
 
 
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