Leaking Chief/Bailey's 3 spool valve - how hard to fix?

[FTG-05]

I bought this Bailey's Chief 3 spool valve several years for my 3 remote rears. I based my build on LD1's build, so used a lot of the same parts. Link to valve: CHIEF G Series: 1 GPM, SAE 1 Inlet/Outlet, 3 Spool, 3625 PSI, 15-3625 PSI Relief Setting, SAE 8 Work Ports, 22959

Pic:

As some of you may remember, I took the tractor to a local farm store to have the hoses installed and all the connections made. They mis-connected this valve; essentially by blocking or plugging the "Tank" port and not connecting it correctly to the tank. With LD1 et al help, I got it fixed. But now, whenever I use the tractor and it gets hot, the valve leaks pretty heavily.

Anyone have a detailed diagram of this valve? Any paperwork I got from Baileys went to the Farm store and they are out of business now (there's a surprise). How hard would it be for me to disassemble this valve to replace o-rings etc?

It does not appear to be leaking from the connections near as I can tell. It appears to be leaking from the protrusions where the handles are located. See pic above. I've tightened all the bolts as far as I can comfortably, hoping to not strip or break the bolts.

Any help and/or advice is appreciated!

 

[ptsg]

These monoblock valves rely on very tight clearances between the spool and the bore. The o-ring and wiper are there mostly to prevent dirt and trash from getting in and the small oil film from coming to the outside.

Since the valve wasn't connected properly, I'm suspecting that it might be cracked. That's what usually happens when the Tank port gets blocked.

But you can still take the caps off to check for any obvious issues.

 

[FTG-05]

These monoblock valves rely on very tight clearances between the spool and the bore. The o-ring and wiper are there mostly to prevent dirt and trash from getting in and the small oil film from coming to the outside.

Since the valve wasn't connected properly, I'm suspecting that it might be cracked. That's what usually happens when the Tank port gets blocked.

But you can still take the caps off to check for any obvious issues.

And that's what I didn't want to hear!

And on that note, I just got a response from Bailey's with a diagram. The good news is that the valve only uses one o-ring and it's a ready available 208BN (Buna). I ordered the Viton version from McMaster just now.

The bad news: The diagram clearly shows that the Tank port is limited to about 50 bar, which is about 250 psi. Which is about 1/10 of the pressure it was probably subjected to while the port was blocked i.e. ~2600 psi. .

To help isolate the leak, can anyone recommend the use of a dye? Recommendations for a dye?

Thanks,

 

[ptsg]

O-rings are not that expensive. You can always give it a go first.

The problem with blocking the Tank port is that the excess pressure relieved by the pressure valve, has no where to go. So when a tank port is blocked, the pressure valve is irrelevant at that point.

However, you have the loader valve before that one, which would relieve the excess pressure. But the Chief valve would still have to handle system pressure on the Tank port to feed the 3 pt.

Can't help you with the die though. Take things apart first. It's pretty much straight forward. If you have any detent, be careful as the detent balls can pop off to another Universe.

 

[Tx Jim]

JD offers hyd oil dye.
Part Number: MT3668 Part Price: 8.55 USD

 

[FTG-05]

JD offers hyd oil dye.
Part Number: MT3668 Part Price: 8.55 USD

Thanks! The local JD dealer screwed up the repair of my MS-180 chainsaw. Now I have another reason to visit them.

Thanks,

 

[Dave M7040]

Using UV type dye, in my experience, makes leaks much easier to find.

A UV kit is not expensive and can be used for all sorts of leaks from hydraulic systems, coolant, engine oil AC system.

The dye glows under the light of a UV type flashlight.

This video gives you an idea of the simplicity of the process.

Find Oil Leaks Easily With a UV Dye Light - YouTube

The UV flashlight and special glasses are sold on Amazon.

Amazon.com: Mastercool 53517-UV 17 LED True UV Detection Flashlight: Automotive

Various types of dyes are sold by most auto parts shops. there are different dyes for Cooling Systems, oils etc

Dave M7040

 

[FTG-05]

Does that work better than the JD leak dye?

Thanks!

 

[Dave M7040]

Does that work better than the JD leak dye?

Thanks!

Tx Jim may have further comments but my understanding of the JD dye is to make the fluid level more visible in a sight glass.

Owners are overfilling because they cannot see the liquid in the sight glass when filling the transmission.

Dave M7040

Dave M7040

 

[FTG-05]

Using UV type dye, in my experience, makes leaks much easier to find.

A UV kit is not expensive and can be used for all sorts of leaks from hydraulic systems, coolant, engine oil AC system.

The dye glows under the light of a UV type flashlight.

This video gives you an idea of the simplicity of the process.

Find Oil Leaks Easily With a UV Dye Light - YouTube

The UV flashlight and special glasses are sold on Amazon.

Amazon.com: Mastercool 53517-UV 17 LED True UV Detection Flashlight: Automotive

Various types of dyes are sold by most auto parts shops. there are different dyes for Cooling Systems, oils etc

Dave M7040

I bought a couple bottles of this UV dye plus a UV light and glasses.

Downsides is that the 1 oz. bottles are only good for 5 quarts of hydraulic or engine oil and each bottle costs $10. For a +10 gallon system = $$$$.

I'll try it anyway. The local JD dealer didn't have it, but did order me two bottles of their MT3668 dye as well. One bottle there treats 5 gallons.

Thanks,